Wendy Brucker distinguishes her main courses with bountiful accompaniments on the weekly changing menu. Grilled wild salmon glistens in a lobster butter accompanied by a leek and carrot risotto, Champagne-braised cabbage and a delicate sunflower sprout, pancetta and verjus salad. She cooks duck two ways and plates it with a blood orange jus, cracklings, pecorino custard and slow-braised collard greens. The newly refurbished interior has vague Asian accents but still feels like a midcentury ranch house, with large windows overlooking a manicured garden.
Specialties: Portobello mushroom fritters with lemon aioli; any braised dish; hot fudge sundae.
Dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday; 5-10 p.m. Saturday, until 9 p.m. Sunday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.