The dining room at Rivoli feels like a midcentury house with sleek Japanese overtones. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out over a lush garden filled with ferns, magnolias and camellias; it's like being transported to another time. Chef and co-owner Wendy Brucker offers a modern take on California comfort food on her weekly changing menu, where the accompaniments are as exciting as the main event. Grilled quail is stuffed with wild mushrooms and served with both garlic braised kale and potato/wild rice gratin; she serves grilled salmon on celery root and potato puree with basil vinaigrette, orange butter, warm cucumbers and citrus and olive relish.
Specialties: Portobello mushroom fritters with lemon aioli; Caesar salad; smoked fish; any braised dish; hot fudge sundae.
Dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, until 10 p.m. Friday; 5-10 p.m. Saturday, until 9 p.m. Sunday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.