My answering machine used to greet callers with an excerpt of a Dwight Yoakam's "South of Cincinnati" ("If you ever get south of the Ohio River, down where Dixieland begins ..."). It wasn't a favorite for many of my friends, but I still sing a bar or two to myself when crossing a bridge into Kentucky.
Although the song wasn't about food, I think Dwight would be tempted to croon a new tune -- as would I -- if he'd joined me for some recent sojourns to Florence.
Cerio's Diner has a classic 1950s look that beckons from the highway: a trailer, sleek and metallic with blue neon. When I called to ask directions, I was told I couldn't miss it. That was an understatement. My companion and I were delighted as we pulled into the parking lot, longing for roller-skating carhops.
As we entered, we passed a well-stocked game room and a vintage jukebox. Owner Robert Tringale bought the diner last year and equipped it with his father's jukebox and eclectic collection of 45s. Royal blue metallic vinyl-covered benches and wood-grain Formica tables are complemented by white walls, red edging and lots of plastic. Framed 45s include Doris Day and Frank Sinatra, while old Chevy, Ford and Mustang signs are sprinkled between vintage movie posters, all from Tringale's family. This is a real collection, not fabricated memorabilia for mass decoration.
You can revel in nostalgia while at Cerio's, but you'd better come hungry -- portions are enormous. Breakfast can be ordered all day and includes classic fare such as pancakes ($1.99 or $2.99), biscuits and gravy ($1.69 or $2.99) and steak and eggs ($7.49). You'll also find Cerio's homemade sausage ($2.19) and a fritatta, which they define as "omelet, Italian style" ($4.79 or $5.79).
Breakfast and burgers tempted us, but we ordered from the dinner menu, starting with Tomato's Sicilian ($3.29). The large soup plate arrived, brimming with succulent Roma tomatoes nicely glazed with an herbed vinaigrette that heightened their flavor. The soup of the day, Italian Bean (mug $1.69, bowl $2.29), was hot, thick and a true taste of Tuscany. The Caesar Salad ($3.99) was a mix of romaine and field greens with homemade croutons and a mild lemon dressing. The House Salad ($2.99), chopped romaine and field greens, topped with grated American cheese and the Garlic House dressing, was a hit with the tangy, savory sauce but could lose the cheese.
Three huge portions of BBQ Country Ribs ($9.99) were prepared Memphis-style with a dry rub, slathered with a sweet and spicy sauce, and were a little dry and chewy. A smooth mountain of Garlic Mashed Potatoes accompanied the ribs and had a slight garlic flavor, very tasty, but more than could be eaten in one sitting. Classic Italian arrived at the table as Spaghetti with Cerio's Sausage ($6.99). The thick noodles were liberally covered with a sauce chunky of tomatoes and herbs, spiked with old-fashioned spicy sausage made from Tringale's great-grandfather's recipe.
Desserts were large enough for at least two, but they need some work to come up to the rest of the menu. Thick, somewhat bland marscapone fills a chocolate cup in the Cannoli Cup ($2.49) topped with chocolate chips and chocolate sauce. Even I thought it was too much chocolate. Apple Brown Betty ($2.49) includes some bread cubes with apple chunks, cinnamon and butter in a soupy mix topped with canned whipped cream.
For a total change of pace down in Florence, Italianni's opened in 1995 and can seat 247. The large, bright and airy rooms feature eggshell walls over dark club paneling, decorative columns and groupings of miscellaneous black-and-white photographs accompanying mirrors on various walls. Checked vinyl tablecloths are covered with white paper and small stacks of small oval plates and recycled wine bottles filled with herbed olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
We received fast and efficient service, without undue friendliness from the wait staff. After delivering a small round of warm, chewy bread, our waiter mixed vinegar and oil for our use with the bread and disappeared to retrieve our wine. When the wine proved to have a dry cork, he quickly replaced it with a fresh bottle. Black Skillet Roasted Mussels ($7.95) arrived as a dynamic, sizzling presentation of plump, coral-colored buds in the black shells over minced shallots, doused with a spray of fresh lemon at the table. The presentation was great, but the mussels were better.
We received chilled oval bistro plates for the Country Mista Salad (small, $2.95, which was plenty for two; large, $6.95). Crunchy, mixed greens were tumbled with Gorgonzola crumbles, chopped tomatoes and walnuts in a sharp vinaigrette. Surprisingly, the salad was uninspiring, begging for better cheese or some herbs or onion.
Grilled Chicken Milanese ($12.95) included three boneless breast portions layered over Gorgonzola-creamed spinach, linguine and a tomato-caper relish. The sauce was thin and again had little discernible hint of Gorgonzola, but the linguine was done perfectly. Overall, this was a pleasing entrée, which could easily feed two.
One of the specials was Blackened Grouper ($15.95) of fettuccine with red pepper, zucchini and yellow squash slices and carrot slivers, dusted with parsley. We feel certain the waiter didn't tell us the dish was blackened, which was far too overpowering for the meaty fish, cooked beautifully. We were left with the impression that there were experienced chefs in the kitchen who knew when to stop cooking but didn't sample the sauces and spices.
One order of Tiramisu ($4.95) was plenty to share over cups of good decaf. The presentation was lovely with the 4-by-4-inch square of ladyfingers and sweetened marscapone placed atop crosshatched lines of chocolate sauce. The rich dessert tickles the back of the tongue with delectable flavors of espresso, chocolate and cinnamon.
While these trips were more of a taste of little Italy than Yoakum's Dixieland, both restaurants are worth a drive "south of Cincinnati," especially if you happen to have extremely hungry people with you.
Italianni's
Go: 4911 Houston Rd. Florence
Call: 282-8282
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday; noon-11 p.m. Saturday; noon-10 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Reasonable to moderate
Payment: All major credit cards
Vegetarian Friendliness: Plenty of dishes on the menu.
Cerio's Diner
Go: Intersection of routes 25 and 42, Florence
Call: 525-8833
Hours: 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; all day Friday-Saturday; until 4 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Inexpensive to reasonable
Payment: Cash only
Vegetarian Friendliness: Non-meat selections available for breakfast, salads and entrées.
