When I returned from the restroom during a recent visit to the newly opened Bonefish Grille -- the latest outpost in the sprawl of trendy chain restaurants near Rookwood Commons on Cincinnati's East side -- a dining companion told me a story I can't resist retelling: While she was sitting alone, a stream of five servers walked by her in a line. As they passed, each turned, one by one, to smile, nod and walk on in wave fashion. Smile, nod, walk. Smile, nod, walk. She gave the move a 10.0 for concision the Rockettes themselves couldn't have topped. I pictured an elaborate service manual diagram detailing the execution of this move.
But despite our cynicism toward the clonish qualities of corporate dining, my friends and I were impressed with the new Cincinnati outpost of the latest concept from Outback Steakhouse, Inc. Fresh seafood, sophisticated flavor combinations (a few misses) and a service crew that works like clockwork -- or cabaret? -- made it one of the more memorable adventures in chain restaurant dining I've had in a while.
The image and atmosphere are corporate to the core but, for the most part, they work. The interior has a laid-back Florida feeling, in keeping with the restaurant's origins. Backlit metal murals of ocean fishing scenes adorn the walls. Honey tones make for a muted warmth, and black ceilings keep the soft lighting focused at table-level. The only thing that really bothered me was mainstream Jazz -- background music in my book -- played at high volume.
Bonefish's menu will be mouth-watering poetry to any seafood lover, with Jumbo Shrimp and Scallops ($16.50), Lobster Tails (market price) and Chilean Sea Bass ($18.50), something I've not eaten without tinges of guilt since being chastised by a friend the last time I ordered it. (Did you know sea bass is being boycotted because it's overfished?) A requisite section of steak, chops and chicken provides alternatives to seafood, although the addition of a vegetarian entrée would fully round out the menu, which limits meatless, fish-free options to a salad and side dishes.
Our Ahi Tuna Sashimi appetizer ($7.50, half-order) was a nice palate-teaser. Lightly seared (so technically not sashimi), the tuna rectangles were sprinkled with sesame seeds and fanned, but rested upon a bed of iceberg lettuce that took away from the otherwise pleasing aesthetics of the dish. A squiggle of Thai sauce, creamy remoulade, soy, wasabi and pickled ginger completed the plate.
A choice of corn and crab Chowder ($1.50 extra), Caesar salad (not for those squeamish about garlic) or house salad was included with our entrées. The creamy chowder, boasting generous hunks of lump crabmeat and subtle pimento accents, was worth the upcharge. This was not the case with the addition of blue cheese ($1.50) on my friend's house salad, which was abrasive next to the quiet flavors of hearts of palm, pine nuts and citrus vinaigrette.
Among our entrées, Parmesan and Pistachio Encrusted Rainbow Trout ($17) was the unanimous favorite. A butterflied fillet of trout was sautéed in a thin coating of ground nuts and cheese and topped with artichokes for a little tang.
We also tried salmon and swordfish, both grilled over a wood fire. Rhea's Salmon ($17), on the list of specials that night, was served with spinach and crabmeat and topped off with a lime, tomato and garlic sauce selected from a trio of sauces. Atlantic Swordfish ($17, another target of recent boycotts) with lemon butter sauce was delightfully tender, not overcooked, as is easy to do with such a thick, meaty fish.
Entrées came with mixed vegetables that were heavily seasoned with dill, one of those flavors I can't handle in large doses. Also included was a choice of four "awesome" sides -- which I found to be agreeable, if not "awesome" -- though questionable in their compatibility with fish. Angel hair pasta with marinara seemed particularly out of place. My friend's Potatoes au Gratin was heavy alongside the swordfish, but he loved the cheesy, buttery mound of sliced potatoes in a crispy potato straw shell. Island rice with red currants and almond slivers was the best option for a more subtle, fish-friendly side.
The wine list is short and compulsory, but selections are thoughtful. Our choice of Chateau St. Jean Fumé Blanc ($23) was light and crisp, a little over-oaked, but well paired with our food.
American-style portions, along with irresistible bread served with fresh basil and olive oil mixed tableside, made dessert inconceivable. Finding our way to the door with a stack of Styrofoam, we couldn't resist trying out the smile-and-nod for the hostess as she thanked us for coming.
Bonefish Grille
Go: 2737 Madison Road, Hyde Park
Call: 513-321-5222
Hours: Monday-Thursday 4-10:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday 4-11:30 p.m., Sunday 4-10 p.m. Reservations accepted.
Prices: Moderate to expensive
Payment: Cash and all major credit cards
Red Meat Alternatives: Fish, fish and more fish
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