Purists who claim you need a wood-burning pizza oven should taste Sharon Ardiana's handiwork at Gialina in Glen Park. She turns out great pizza in a gas-fueled Blodget; it emerges crisp and slightly chewy. The 12 topping combinations include one with wild nettles, pancetta, mushrooms, red onion and provolone; another with pesto, chard, olives, ricotta and ricotta salata. Last year she opened Ragazza, with a slightly expanded menu that includes pasta. Both places offer a couple of main courses. Recently at Gialiina it was chicken breast with polenta and slow-braised pork shoulder; at Ragazza, a braised chicken leg with Moroccan vegetable stew.
Specialties: Atomica pizza (tomato, mushrooms, spicy chiles, red onions, mozzarella); meatballs. Ragazza: pasta, warm farro salad; baked rigatoni.
Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday.