In a brilliant move last year, owners Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani, who also own Ame in San Francisco, divided their 24-year-old flagship into two restaurants. On the left of the stone-walled entrance is the more elegant Terra where diners created their own four- to six-course menus. On the right is Bar Terra, which has a separate menu that includes some of the best ramen to be found, along with some Terra classics (tripe stew and fried rock shrimp). You can also get the full Terra a la carte menu in the bar, including fricassee of sweetbreads with caramelized salsify and black truffle sauce.
Specialties: Terra: Foie gras tortellini; Broiled black cod with shrimp dumplings in shisho broth. Bar Terra: Foods "in jars," including fish tartare; radicchio salad; ramen with pork trotters; braised pork shoulder; any dessert.
Open for dinner 6-9 p.m. Wednesday-Monday and until 9:30 Friday-Saturday. (Bar Terra opens a half hour earlier and stays open a half hour later).