3870 17th St. (at Pond Street, between Noe and Sanchez streets)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 621-3870
A Chronicle Rising Star in 2002 when she was just 25, Melissa Perello turned from cooking high-end food at places like the Fifth Floor to this more casual neighborhood restaurant. When she opened this intimate spot a little more than two years ago, it quickly jumped to the top of everyone's must-visit list because of her flawless cooking; it was even a finalist for the James Beard Foundation best new restaurant award. The abbreviated menu includes such things as Dungeness crab risotto with salsify and Meyer lemon cream, and bavette steak with mushrooms, spinach and toasted farro ragout. The compact wine list features specially blended wines for $1 per ounce.
Specialties: Applewood smoked bacon beignets; chickpea fritters; bavette steak with toasted farro ragout; lumberjack cake.
Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday.