The Delfina empire started in 1998 with a bank loan, a credit card and an unproven location in the Mission. The leap of faith taken by Craig and Anne Stoll paid off big time: They now have two pizzerias and last year opened Locanda, a Roman-inspired restaurant. Delfina describes its cuisine as Northern Italy meets Northern California, and it does indeed have a perfect sense of place, balancing clean and rustic sensibilities. There's brightly flavored spaghetti with plum tomatoes, and a rich pappardelle with duck sugo. The vibrant, industrial-looking interior features hardwood floors, wood benches and dozens of sandblasted beakers turned into hanging pendant lights.
Specialties: Grilled calamari with warm white beans; handmade pasta; spaghetti with plum tomatoes, garlic and olive oil; roast chicken; buttermilk panna cotta.
Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.