Stryker Sonoma winery has gentle, scenic flavor

Perhaps it was the romance of the rain falling gently over the rolling hills and vineyards surrounding Stryker Sonoma winery in Geyserville.

Maybe it was the mood, so cheerful and warm in the tasting room, lit by a fireplace and the velvety gray patina of fogged sun slipping through the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Whatever the motivation, my tasting host was in a luxurious mood, pouring glass after glass of wine. A standard set-up is five samples for $10, yet before I knew it, I had been lounging at the big, curving marble bar for an hour and a half, and had sipped a dozen selections.

If a bottle of wine was open, the host explained, he wanted to share it. That was the best way to explore Stryker's various styles within single varietals, each drawn from different vineyards including Stryker's own Alexander Valley estate, plus contracted properties in Rockpile and the valleys of Sonoma, Dry Creek, Knights and Russian River. Plus, it was fun.

The vibe: The winery was built in 2002 in a sleek, contemporary style, yet melds with its rural surroundings. Looking like a cross between a tall, airy barn and a giant barrel, the lines are curved and cantilevered, while the colors evoke warm rust and soft soil. Despite rough concrete block walls and hard chocolate and caramel striped concrete floors, the inside feels inviting and spacious, spanning to views of the barrel room.

The experience: It's clear the staff members love their work. Hosts, who sometimes ride tricycles around the property, are charming chatterboxes. For a bit of frolic, they will play "secret sip," pouring a blind taste and helping you guess your way into what it is. And no worries about your glass being empty; team members are quick on their feet to keep everyone moving through the wines even on a busy afternoon.

Comfort is the signature, from the convenient purse hooks under the bar to the butter-soft logo shirts, aprons and oven mitts sold in the eclectic gift area. We were wavering whether to buy - the wines aren't often available anywhere else - and were cheerfully reminded that, while the $10 tasting fee goes toward purchase, two of us could pool our fees and get $20 off a single item.

The team: Patricia Stryker is the granddaughter of Homer Stryker, surgeon and founder of Stryker Corp., a medical technology company. Forbes lists her as one of the world's richest people, and she is well known for her philanthropic contributions. For a personal project, she bought the former Sommer Vineyards in 1999, then rebuilt, replanted and rechristened it. The winemaker from the beginning has been Tim Hardin; he was joined in 2004 by assistant winemaker Jen Berman, who is now also co-general manager.

The wines: Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel dominate the 32-acre estate, supplemented by some Merlot and Malbec. The star is a 2-acre block of gnarly 93-year old Zinfandel vines, although Stryker is also making some interesting red blends, like a 2002 E1K ($65) that marries Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

In 2010, the winery transitioned to primarily estate-only wines, with limited amounts of grapes sourced from a neighboring property and from Rockpile. With that change, total production of all the small lot wine (70 to 700 cases each) has dropped dramatically to 5,000 cases a year.

The extras: Picnic perfection. Tables set beneath trees in the front, and a vineyard-view porch area in back cry out for quiet time with a bottle of wine and some sandwiches from Jimtown Store around the corner.

Nearby: Alexander Valley Store and Bar, 6487 Hwy. 128, Healdsburg, (707) 431-8845. medlockames.com; Jordan Winery, 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, (707) 431-5250. jordanwinery.com; White Oak Vineyards & Winery, 7505 Hwy. 128, Healdsburg, (707) 433-8429. whiteoakwinery.com.

If You Go: Stryker Sonoma, 5110 Hwy. 128 (near Alexander Valley Road), Geyserville; (707) 433-1944. strykersonoma.com. Open 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

Rating: Rating: THREE STARS

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This article appeared on page M - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle