Mining town a hiker haven

Outside, the air is in the mid-80s, but inside this murky, damp mine tunnel, it's a chilly 45 degrees. I'm not claustrophobic, but after a few minutes looking at the low overhead timbers supporting the mountain above us, I'm ready to get back in the sun. A few more steps and I'll be able to confirm whether I'm acrophobic.

The not-really scary tour of the Kentucky Mine in Sierra City is one of several Sierra County surprises we discovered when we visited the northern end of Mother Lode country recently.

As avid day hikers, my wife, Anne, and I wanted to take in the view from the Sierra Buttes Lookout, but blocked access (lingering mid-June snow) to one of the county's main attractions turned out to be our first surprise. We were not, however, left in the dark (aside from the mine) about things to do. Sierra City is surrounded by the scenic beauty of Tahoe National Forest with enough activities to keep outdoor enthusiasts busy for a weekend or a week.

The tiny town - a cluster of Gold Rush-era buildings, really - sits along the North Yuba River beneath the towering Sierra Buttes, sawtooth mountains that look like a smaller version of the Grand Tetons. The Pacific Crest Trail passes nearby and a short drive away is the Lakes Basin, where Upper Sardine Lake, Saxonia Lake and many other small bodies of water are bordered by hiking trails.

The buttes trail, when clear of snow, leads up to the 8,591-foot elevation lookout. The last portion of the trail is a series of steep, almost vertical metal stairs. That was our first destination. What we missed (it's open now) is a spectacular 360-degree view of valleys, mountains and lakes. There are, however, other inviting trails. Dozens. After a stroll around beautiful Packer Lake, we took our hiking boots back to town and walked the 3.5-mile Wild Plum Loop Trail, off Wild Plum Road.

Filled with a mixture of conifers and oaks, dogwood and manzanita, the loop trail crosses two bridges over the surging North Yuba and affords several views of the Sierra Buttes. It's a pleasant introduction to the region's trails and is short enough to help you adjust your sea-level stamina to the local altitude (Sierra City is at 4,187 feet).

At Herrington's Sierra Pines Resort, a modest motel with striking views - the buttes in one direction, the North Yuba in the other - our room overlooked the river and we ended the afternoon on our deck with a bottle of wine (from the Sierra Country Store) and watched streaks of sunset color the river.

The next day, we took Highway 49 to Downieville. Only slightly larger than Sierra City, it's worth seeing for the period buildings and bridges, the diversely stocked Two Rivers Arts and Crafts store, and the confluence of the North Yuba and Downie rivers. The highway parallels the North Yuba, so wide areas invite you to pull off and spend a few hours by the river with a book, a fishing rod - or better yet, a gold pan. Miner's Emporium in Sierra City sells gold pans in several sizes plus modern versions of sluice boxes.

(Big Springs Gardens, a 30-acre garden surrounded by 88 acres of forest preserve, is well worth a visit during the 2 1/2-month season - which just ended.)

Back at the Kentucky Mine, tour guide Virginia Luttes led us toward the stamp mill, a seven-story building constructed near the side of a hill so that the entrance is at the top, next to the mine opening. The complex mill machinery, made for pulverizing gold ore, is ponderous and impressive - and a reminder of the rigors and dangers that miners faced.

We entered the mill across a narrow wooden walkway high above the ground. Miners had to have good balance as they crossed the gap. Today we have a high handrail. No need of acrophobia. As I reach for the rail, I wonder if missing the Buttes Lookout was so unfortunate after all.

Freelance writer Mark S. Bacon lives in Reno. E-mail comments to travel@sfchronicle.com.

This article appeared on page M - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle