Chef Peter Merriman's picks for handmade Hawaiian treats

Chef Peter Merriman is considered one of the founders of Hawai'i Regional Cuisine, in its own way a forerunner of today's "locavore" trend. When you live in one of the most isolated island chains in the world, it makes sense to eat what's at hand, and what has been hand-crafted. And for Merriman, that's as true of snacks as it is of multi-course meals.

With eponymous restaurants on Maui, the Big island and Kaua'i, among other ventures, Merriman is busy preparing for the opening in early 2011 of Monkeypod Kitchen, a new Valley Isle pub that will feature three dozen craft beers as well as locally sourced food, specialty cocktails and an extensive wine list. But he took time recently to discuss his eight favorite sources for handmade island treats, many of which can be enjoyed heading to or from the airport. And most make delectable omiyage (take-home gifts) — providing you can resist sampling them yourself.

1. Hashimoto persimmon jam. This five-acre farm, at an elevation of 3,000 feet on Haleakala, has been in the Hashimoto family since the 1920s, but it wasn't until 2005 that Jackie Hashimoto created its signature jam, which Merriman purchases at TJ's Warehouse Outlet in Wailuku. "You can also get salad dressing, butter, and a scone mix from their persimmon farm in Kula," Merriman notes, along with fresh persimmons in season (October through mid-December.) All persimmon products are also available online.

2. Tasaka guri guri. "A creamier relative of shave ice" is how the chef describes the confection at Tasaka Guri Guri shop in Kahului's Maui Mall, where it's available in pineapple or strawberry flavors. "Tasaka has been famous for their guri guri throughout Hawaii for over 90 years," Merriman says, explaining, "Guri guri got its name from the plantation days, when the treat was sold as 'goodie-goodie' to Japanese plantation workers, who pronounced it 'guri guri.' "

3. Sam Sato's dry mein and teri beef sticks. In a residential area of Wailuku, Sam Sato's is a Japanese bakery beloved by locals and the visitors that make their way to 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku. "Their dry mein is served with broth on the side, which is entirely made from scratch, and uses noodles that are locally made in Pa'ia," says Merriman.

4. Julia's banana bread. Rental car contracts may discourage you from driving there, but if you do make it to Kahakuloa, "look for the bright green road signs leading to Julia's Banana Bread Treehouse," Merriman advises. "She is famous for handcrafted banana bread, which is dark in color and very moist, but they also sell handcrafted coconut candy nuggets, which they are increasingly becoming known for." And if you're worried about the drive, online orders for shipping are available with a minimum $25 purchase.

5. Komoda Bakery cream puffs and doughnut sticks. "When you walk in here, you walk into the paniolo days of this being an old-fashioned convenience store with a bakery built in," says Merriman of T. Komoda Store and Bakery, founded in 1916 and now located at 3674 Baldwin Ave. in upcountry Makawao. "Get here quick, though, people drive from all over the island at the crack of dawn to get these cream puffs and doughnut sticks before they run out."

6. Home Maid Bakery manju and malasada. "Home Maid is touted as the 'home of the crispy manju,' a relative of mochi," Merriman notes. "Here it is made with a delicate and flaky, crispy crust, and houses fruit fillings like sweet azuki beans, apple, coconut, and purple sweet potatoes." Malasadas — the Portuguese-style doughnut holes — are available only at the main store in Wailuku, founded in 1960; shave ice is available there and at the Kahului Industrial Park location. (The Kahului airport gift shop also carries Home Maid manju, albeit with an airport gift shop markup.)

7. Tom's shave ice. "The best shave ice on the island" is how Merriman describes the powdery ice with flavored syrups served at Tom's Mini Mart, 372 Waiehu Beach Road, Wailuku. "It's easy to drive right past it, but don't," Merriman says. "The shave ice here is perfection, as it is shaved so fine it's almost creamy."

8. Camellia crack seeds. A fixture in Kahului's Queen Ka'ahumanu Center for at least 20 years, Camellia Seeds "is the only place that I know of that is still in business and specializes in crack seed that is on Maui — there are a lot of options on O'ahu or the Big Island, but not so many here," the long-time Valley Isle resident notes. Reflecting the islands' diverse Asian Pacific heritage, "crack seeds are a variety of dried fruits often served with li hing mui powder, which has a plum flavor," Merriman explains. Li hing is also sprinkled on everything from gummy bears to rice crackers; the store also sells coconut candy, beef jerky and bubble tea, among other treats.

Jeanne Cooper is the former Chronicle Travel Editor and author of SFGate's Hawaii Insider (www.sfgate.com/blogs/hawaiiinsider), a daily blog about Hawaii travel and island culture.