Even though business was good, when Nate Appleman defected for New York, Shelley Lindgren and her partners tweaked the concept and brought in Matthew Accarrino. Instead of the food of Rome, he's cooking "contemporary Italian," but it's just as delicious. Main courses include petrale sole with cauliflower and verjus butter or farro-stuffed quail on a bed of Umbrian lentils. The interior has also been remodeled, and while it looks much the same with an open kitchen and an energetic vibe, the noise level is more manageable. Service excels, as does Lindgren's all-Italian wine list.
Specialties: Crispy pig ears with pickled jalapeno; chopped chicken liver; yellowtail crudo with finger lime and fried prosciutto; chestnut pasta with spigarello and burnt orange sauce; stuffed quail; olive oil gelato.
Brunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday; dinner 5:30-10:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, until 10 p.m. Sunday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.