Most people think pizza when Dopo is mentioned, but Jon Smulewitz not only produces some of the best thin-crust pies in the Bay Area, he also takes an artisan approach to house-made salumi, salads and pastas. The menu includes "pesce crudo," at least three dishes with raw seafood such as steelhead with blood oranges, celery and Sicilian olives. His antipasti is out of the ordinary, too: mozzarella is topped with fresh artichoke conserva, for example. Over the years the restaurant has doubled in size, but it still feels intimate and personal. The best seat is at the counter, where diners observe pizza being made. On warm days there are outside tables, sandwiched between two buildings.
Specialties: House-made pates and salumi; crudo (raw fish); house-made pastas; nightly changing pizza.
Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., until 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.