One of the big surprises of 2009 was when A16 chef Nate Appleman fled for New York soon after winning the James Beard Rising Star Chef award. Liza Shaw, who had been in the kitchen for several years, moved into the top spot, and the menu, inspired by Campania, is as good as ever. Shelley Lindgren has amassed a fascinating collection of Italian wines. The long, narrow interior of the restaurant, named after the highway that runs through Naples, is defined by the bar in the front, an open kitchen and wood-burning oven that produces authentic Neapolitan pizza. There's also a covered patio in the rear.
Specialties: Neapolitan pizza; tuna conserva; burrata; house-cured salumi; tripe Napoletana; maccaronara pasta with tomato ragu and ricotta salata; duck meatballs; chocolate budino tart.
Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Wed.-Fri., dinner 5-10 p.m. Sun.-Thur., until 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.