126 Clement St. (near Third Avenue)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 750-9787
Philippe Gardelle opened Chapeau in 1996, but a few years ago he bought Clementine and eventually moved Chapeau into that space. The feel is classic and romantic, right down to the single rose on each table. It's one of the best deals on French food in the Bay Area and one of the few places to get classic, rich sauces, often presented in a modern way. Gardelle pops between the kitchen and the dining room to ensure that every thing is in tip-top shape; it always is. On weeknights, consider the early bird fixed-price menu for $28.
Specialties: Mussel soup with creme fraiche; escargot in garlic, parsley butter; salade Landaise with duck confit; sweetbreads dusted with porcini; cassoulet; filet mignon with foie gras or truffles; profiteroles.
Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.