Mourad Lahlou uses his Moroccan heritage as a jumping-off point to create some of the most exciting, innovative food in the Bay Area. He's a self-taught, passionate chef who uses modern techniques to bring out the best elements of this ancient cuisine. Although there's an a la carte menu, many opt for the five-course tasting menu ($62) that includes the familiar b'steeya and not-so-familiar items such as lentil soup with celery and dates, and a hen egg with shelling beans and charmoula. The unusual hand-crafted cocktails that rival the cuisine. Melissa Chou's desserts are inspired, and might include such things as hazelnut dacquoise with pear and burnt honey ice cream.
Specialties: Five-course tasting menu ($62); b'steeya, goat cheese with preserved tomato vinaigrette; couscous; radish salad with avocado and chicken cracklings; meatballs; lamb shank; dessert such as hibiscus granita and rose parfait.
Open for dinner 5:30-10:30 p.m. Wed.-Mon.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.