Fish Story opens in Napa's Riverfront

Fish Story, the first Wine Country venture for the Lark Creek Restaurant Group (One Market and Lark Creek Steak, among others), is in full swim - er, swing - in downtown Napa.

It's the second major restaurant to open in the Riverfront development, following in the formidable footsteps of Morimoto next door.

As the name implies, Fish Story is a seafood-centric restaurant. Its chef, however, comes from a decidedly meatier lineage: Stephen Barber, last seen at BarbersQ, also in Napa.

Here, Barber has compiled a menu brimming with sustainable seafood and pulling from many regional traditions.

There are smaller plates like Hawaiian ahi tuna tartar ($14), halibut ceviche ($10) and New England clam chowder ($6/$9), while larger options range from North Beach cioppino ($26) to shrimp and grits ($18.50). Steak lovers can rest assured that there's a full section of non-fish options, too.

The design of the 4,000-square-foot space was done by San Francisco firm Architecture & Light, and includes 60 seats in the dining room, 60 seats on the patio, two fish tanks and one octopus fountain sculpture in the courtyard.

Fish Story, 790 Main St. (at Third Street), Napa; (707) 251-5600 or fishstorynapa.com. Dinner nightly; lunch begins Tuesday. Starters and salads, $6-$22.50; entrees, $12.50-$29.

This article appeared on page J - 2 of the San Francisco Chronicle