Riesling pairs well with sausage, cabbage, mustard

We often think that Northern California is the hub of all things culinary, including unbelievably great sausage and charcuterie. At least I've thought so after living here for more than a decade, forgetting that no matter the place, most folks can lay claim to a local delectable delight.

On a recent trip to my hometown of Tulsa, Okla., I was happy to discover Siegi's Sausage Factory, which opened in 1985, just about the time I moved to California. Siegi Sumaruk and his family have been making their German-style sausage for four decades, and had just opened a new factory and restaurant/deli at Sheridan Road and 81st Avenue.

When I stopped in, several kinds of sausages immediately made their way into my shopping basket: Grobe bratwurst, fine bratwurst, knackwurst and Weisswurst, though I really wished I'd been able to try each of Siegi's 22 sausages and "lunch meats." So I decided to cook dinner for my brother and sister (from Colorado Springs and from Britain's Bailiwick of Guernsey, respectively), who had joined me in Tulsa at the house where we grew up.

It is easy to love sauerkraut and mustard with sausage, but I happened to have fresh cabbage in the refrigerator. I decided to do a quick saute with onions and a few dried herbs, which add subtle aromas and flavors. If you enjoy caraway, that whole spice brings the dish closer to its Germanic roots.

The slight crisp cabbage provides freshness, a midpoint between cabbage slaw and its fermented counterpart. Roast potatoes are a perfect accompaniment.

I opened an offdry Riesling, sipped a little while cooking and also added some to the cabbage in the skillet. The sausage, cabbage and mustard were a terrific pairing with the Riesling.

Beer is also a good partner - especially if you cook the cabbage with a dry white wine. A slightly hoppy ale contrasts with the sweet sausage and cabbage, or try a bottling with more pronounced bitterness.

I've written about sausage and beer pairings in the past, so for more information, go to bit.ly/haGUVo.