2006 Barolo: The Chronicle recommends

2006 Mauro Veglio Barolo ($36): This historic La Morra property made a commitment to a more modern approach in 1992; that has tapered somewhat, though the presence of new wood is forward here. Still, it's hard to resist the great expressive nose in this basic bottling - dried mint, asphalt, rose, conifer and raspberry. Flavors are more subdued, but there's potential in a couple years as the oak is absorbed. (Importer: Wine Warehouse)

2006 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo ($42): This Barolo estate was re-established in 1996 by Giacomo's son Ferruccio, and this entry-level effort is wonderfully earthy, if slightly closed right now, with kirsch, dust and rose pollen, and bright strawberry fruit. Big and structural, but the tannins and the fruit are in great balance. A leathery, anise-spiked finish hints at a good decade of potential. (Importer: Banville & Jones)

2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo ($85): The work continued by Bartolo's daughter Maria Teresa remains a pinnacle of Barolo, never more than in a stoic vintage. If Mascarello wines can be standoffish as kids, this is already evocative, with fresh roses, ginger root, a subtle tar presence, bouillon and bright orange-rind highlights, all stitched together with rich cherry and kirsch flavors. Delicious, timeless stuff, surprisingly ready, but with what one panelist called a "violin-string" tension and a ton of structure for aging. (Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections)

2006 Guido Porro Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo ($39): Porro, based in Serralunga d'Alba, hews to a notably traditional style; this is Barolo as a snapshot of a recent past, from a south-southeast facing site. An immediately pretty dusty and caramelized orange-peel character, with a savory beef-jerky presence amid leathery black cherry fruit. Buoyant and fresh. A Barolo without guilt - not for a long-term wait, but a great deal for the next six to eight years. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)

2006 Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto Barolo ($42): The Monfalletto property was one of few in the commune of La Morra that left an impression this time. Aged in a mix of oak, it splits the difference between traditional and modern styles, with results that might spur debate. Properly tarry and tangy - toasted coriander and tangerine, green olive and sweet cherry. But it's surprisingly polished, making it approachable while not sacrificing its stoic guts. (Importer: Wine Warehouse)

2006 Ettore Germano Prapo Barolo ($70): From Sergio Germano's south-facing parcel just below his Serralunga winery, this is undeniably stylish, forward Barolo - a successful take on a modern style. Lots of rich vanilla accents to edgier lemon rind, apricot and mineral scents. The fruit is rich and deep, and the tannins classically strong. Should be plenty approachable within a couple years. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines)

2006 Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo ($90): Grasso works the steep slopes of Monforte, and this muscular Barolo aged in large Slavonian barrels is a high-wire act - stylish, but with lots of tannic austerity. Aromas of spice box, balsam, clay, mandarin orange and cranberry, with a minty herbal kick. Grasso's gorgeous Ginestra Casa Mate ($90) is a touch more approachable right now. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines)

2006 Vietti Rocche Barolo ($130): Luca Currado's effort from 45-year-old vines in his native Castiglione remains a Barolo benchmark, aged in Slovenian oak casks for 32 months. A rich cola-like and nutmeg presence, and a tamarind edge, bring depth to the fresh rose and woodsy accents. Deep, extracted and fancy, it's still got lots of classic stuffing - raspberry high tones, black cherry opulence and a vibrancy that remains through rich espresso tones. (Importer: Dalla Terra)

Panelists: Jon Bonné, Chronicle wine editor; Ceri Smith, owner, Biondivino; Wolfgang Weber, Chronicle contributor.