2009 Beaujolais: The Chronicle recommends

2009 Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Cote-de-Brouilly ($22); Brun's well-known wines display juiciness in this vintage. A dusty mineral character leads off, followed by damp earth, radiant red cherry and watermelon, and a seamlessness to the tannins. Its depth is revealed after about 20 minutes in the glass. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections)

2009 Coudert Pere et Fils Clos de la Roilette Fleurie ($22): Roilette, grown in clay and manganese soils near the edge of Moulin-a-Vent, is especially meaty and powerful, in need of a couple of years to fully show itself. Dense, heady stuff, filled with leather and sachet, ripe boysenberry and a firm mineral backbone. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections)

2009 Chateau de Raousset Chiroubles ($13): This is Raousset's effort from its home terroir in the lesser-known Chiroubles appellation. Takes time to open, but there's warm baking spice and cool huckleberry and watermelon. Slightly brooding and chewy, but great structure. (Importer: Jeanne-Marie de Champs/Wine House Ltd.)

2009 Nicole Chanrion Domaine de la Voute des Crozes Cote-de-Brouilly ($20): Chanrion's bottling is always a benchmark for Cote-de-Brouilly, and the '09 is a standout. Rooty and deep aromas, with loam, moist bark and morel amid rich black cherry and bramble fruit. A dense, concentrated effort, with lots of backbone that should make it even better in three to five years. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)

2009 Domaine Diochon Cuvee Vieilles Vignes Moulin-a-Vent ($23): Bernard Diochon's Beaujolais is uncompromising and stoic, ready to age, and the '09 is still tightly wound. There's a bright-dark counterpoint - earthy, stony tones on the nose and vibrant red cranberry fruit in the taste, with a big raft of tannins. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)

2009 Georges Duboeuf Chateau des Capitans Julienas ($19): Say what you will about Duboeuf, his top wines in a year like this are impressive. From a property co-owned with his U.S. importer, this is fine-boned and earthy, with lots of plum fruit and a pleasant herbal bite. (Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons)

2009 Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent ($20): Jadot's Jacques is always a powerful expression of Beaujolais, and this wine displays enormous richness and earthy depth, almost like a Pommard. Lavish black cherry and plum skin, with impressive tannic weight and a bouillon-like accent, plus a fresh floral note. Powerful now, but will improve for a good five to seven years. (Importer: Kobrand)

2009 Marcel Lapierre Morgon ($24): What a fitting last full vintage for Lapierre, who died in October. This is classic Lapierre, in a slightly larger costume - full of earthy dark fruit, marionberry highlights, orange peel and an earthy oyster mushroom accent. It still needs a good six months to soften its muscles, but the power and potential is clear. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)

2009 Julien Sunier Fleurie ($24): Sunier made Beaujolais for the larger Mommessin house before tending his own organically farmed parcels. Tremendous energy here, with a supple, mineral-packed nose of hedgehog mushrooms, moss, raspberry ice and freesia; serve with mushroom stuffing. Ripe, grippy tannins portend a good life ahead. (Importer: Joli Vin)