California sparkling wine: Chronicle recommends

Jon Bonné

Sunday, November 14, 2010

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Craig Lee / Special to The Chronicle

Chandon Rose as seen in San Francisco, Calif., on November 10, 2010.

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Domaine Chandon Etoile Brut as seen in San Francisco, Cal...

2005 Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs as seen in San Francis...

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I spend enough time advocating bubbles with a meal that it seemed fitting this year to run our annual suggestions before Thanksgiving, with an eye toward bottles that can take you from coffee table to dinner table.

This time we capped our outlook at $50 per bottle. There are fantastic American bubblies above that level, but it propels the cost beyond the equivalent Champagne price tag.

That especially matters with the holidays coming. Some top-end cuvees remain at prohibitive prices, even acknowledging the high cost of production. Would that more houses followed Domaine Chandon's gambit in pricing its prestige wine around $40.

You might notice that pink is a dominant color in the lineup. That's no surprise. Rosé is still a standout subset of sparkling these days; not only does the presence of red grapes add food-loving weight, it also calls for more complex winemaking and hence more interesting wines.

It's clear that there's an increasing divide in the American bubble-dome, with a handful of labels taking their efforts ever more seriously and others, well, not so much. To those who believe in finesse - we salute you.

NV Domaine Chandon California Rosé Sparkling Wine ($22): Chandon remains on a serious upward swing under winemaker Tom Tiburzi; this is its best pink in years. A distinct cherry presence, with enough pastry-crust aromas to evoke a cherry turnover. Focused and energetic.

NV Domaine Chandon Étoile Sonoma-Napa Brut ($40): Étoile has become a serious contender among top ranks of American bubbly. Though technically nonvintage - a decision I don't think serves it well - this latest is based on 2003. Some five years on its lees have provided a briny freshness on the nose, with apple, mandarin orange and juicy strawberry notes, and a richer peach tone. Chervil and bright mineral, layered with a subtle yeast note; think slightly toasted croissant.

2005 Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs Carneros Sparkling Wine ($27): Ferrer's most restrained bottling shows a stony edge - shaved apple and pear skin scents, appetizing orange and baking spice flavors. Even amid some phantom sweetness, its Chardonnay base is impressively lean.

2005 Iron Horse Ultra Brut Green Valley of Russian River Valley Sparkling Wine ($50): Aside from the magnum-only Joy, the Ultra is again the standout in Iron Horse's roster, showing a precision from a lower dosage to its Pinot Noir-dominant blend. Vivacious flavors: Bergamot orange, cherry and lime zest, with a subtle cracker-crust toast and stony bite. The mix of austerity and refinement makes it fizz for oysters.

NV Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut Rosé ($27): The regular Roederer Brut remains perhaps the best deal in California bubbles, but the Rosé is the standout - although this latest tasting revealed it a touch riper than last year. Woodsy notes add to a dark-stone minerality that underlines cranberry, tangerine and pear flavors. It's got that quintessential brightness, with a bit of creamy vanilla at the end.

NV Scharffenberger Mendocino County Brut Rosé ($23): Scharffenberger's regular Brut is better than ever, but with this rosé version winemaker Tex Sawyer leaves his true mark. Forty-six percent Chardonnay shows itself, with a fresh apple note atop creamy strawberry, plus a pastry-cream richness and a softer, subtle bead. Ever more, this is proper food bubbly - eloquent and well executed.

2007 Schramsberg North Coast Brut Rosé ($41): The Davies family delivers another complex rosé, with notes of rose petal, peach skin, damp stone, yeast, pear and ripe berry. It's full and generous, with a lively core of fruit and the typically elegant Schramsberg texture.

Jon Bonné is The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne@sfchronicle.com or twitter.com/jbonne.

This article appeared on page L - 11 of the San Francisco Chronicle

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