Chanterelle mushrooms enhance Thanksgiving dishes

Thanksgiving stuffings and side dishes often call for chanterelles, mushrooms that are highly prized for their flavor and sturdiness. They hold their own under the pressure of cooking.

Chanterelles have a trumpet-shape body and range in color from soft white to stark blackish blue, depending on the variety: African red-capped chanterelle, black trumpet, and blue, white or yellow. Each can vary greatly in flavor.

Mild white and slightly sweet chanterelles are often used in soups and chowders, while black trumpet can stand on their own with bold flavors that suggest black tea, banana, violet and peat moss. Yellow, the most common, is golden in color with a mild flavor that hints of sweet fruit.

Chanterelles are in season from September to February, and are widely available - for a price - at farmers' markets and well-stocked supermarkets. Mushroom-hunters find them in woodsy, damp areas, but novice pickers beware: Two poisonous kinds of mushrooms - the jack-o'-lantern and the aptly named false chanterelleare - often mistaken for chanterelles. Both are known for their convincing chanterelle disguises, and both can result in serious illness.

Though chanterelles are sturdy, they can harbor lots of dirt and be tricky to clean. Use a damp paper towel to gently wipe away any dirt and debris. If they are especially dirty, a small brush such as a toothbrush will work well - if you have the patience. Avoid soaking chanterelles because they act like sponges and will soak up the water and become soggy.

How to select: When selecting chanterelles, look for uniformly colored, relatively dry mushrooms with unopened gills and spongy caps. It is normal for chanterelles to have a bit of moisture because they grow in damp environments, but they should never be overly wet or soggy.

How to store: Chanterelles should be kept refrigerated in a brown paper bag. Avoid plastic bags or wrapping; mushrooms need to breathe. If possible, avoid washing chanterelles until just before using them.

How to prepare: Chanterelles are best simply sauteed with butter and onion, but are delicious braised, or added to soups and stews. They also pair well with eggs, chicken, pork and veal. If you have a particularly large mushroom that must be trimmed, keep the cuts to a minimum to maintain flavor.

E-mail Lindsay Patterson at food@sfchronicle.com.

This article appeared on page L - 10 of the San Francisco Chronicle