Over and over we learn that simple is best, and that's certainly the case in this recipe for the almond-crusted chicken served at Ristobar.
The dish was created by Angelo Auriana, who was the chef at Valentino's in Santa Monica for nearly two decades before coming to Ristobar, and knows his way around an Italian kitchen.
At Ristobar, the breast, with its skin replaced by almonds, looks like a beautiful mosaic set on a mound of wilted greens and accompanied by wedges of lemons. It's a dish that is great in the restaurant and is easy to do at home, even for a quick weeknight meal.
Of course, that's not the only enticing dish at Ristobar. With its upscale interior it's one of the best places in the city for a full-on Italian feast, and it has an impressive array of charcuterie and cheese.
If they're available, I can't pass up the chicken fritters, the puntarelle with anchovy dressing, or the cardoon timbale with toasted hazelnuts and black truffle butter. And that's only a start. The restaurant serves an excellent pizza, shaped more like an oval, with a pastry-like crust and exceptional toppings such as smoked mozzarella, escarole and Calabrian chiles.
I'm always up for Auriana's lamb meatballs, too. And since owner Gary Rulli, a master pastry chef, is in charge of desserts, the endings are as alluring as what precedes them.
Ristobar, 2300 Chestnut St. (at Scott), San Francisco; (415) 923-6464 or ristobarsf.com. Dinner nightly.
The secrets
Almonds: These add a toasty, nutty flavor to the chicken and help seal in the juices.
Grapeseed oil: With its light, clean taste and high smoking point, this oil lets the almonds brown without imparting a heavy flavor.
Sage: Fresh sage leaves, stirred into butter, add just the right note of complexity.
Sauteing, then roasting: Browning the breasts on top of the stove, then finishing them in the oven, ensures the proper amount of browning and even cooking.
Almond-Crusted Chicken Breast
Serves 4
Angelo Auriana, chef of Ristobar in San Francisco, serves this crunchy-coated chicken with sage butter and over wilted greens such as spinach, kale, chard or bok choy.
- 4 organic boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, about 2 pounds
- -- Sea salt, to taste
- -- Ground white pepper
- 1/2 cup white bread crumbs
- 1 cup sliced almonds
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 2 large eggs, beaten
- 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil
- 8 fresh sage leaves
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Instructions: Preheat the oven to 375°. Trim the chicken breasts of any fat or connective tissue, and season with salt and pepper.
Combine the bread crumbs and sliced almonds in a shallow dish. Set aside. Place the flour and beaten eggs in separate shallow bowls.
Lightly dust a chicken breast with some of the flour, shaking off excess. Dip the breast in the beaten eggs and then in the almond mixture, pressing on to make sure the chicken is thoroughly and evenly coated. Repeat with remaining breasts.
Pour the grape seed oil into an ovenproof frying pan large enough to hold all the chicken. Set over medium heat. When the oil just shimmers, place the breasts, with what would have been the skin side down, in the pan; sear until lightly brown. Turn the breast over, place the pan in the oven. Bake for 10-12 minutes, or until golden brown.
Place breasts on a warm platter. Discard any fat or liquid remaining in the pan. Add the fresh sage and butter to the pan, and place it over medium heat. When the butter starts to brown, turn off the heat. Return the chicken to the pan, and spoon some of the buttery juices over the chicken. Sprinkle a little sea salt to taste, and serve at once.
Per serving: 504 calories, 53 g protein, 9 g carbohydrate, 28 g fat (6 g saturated), 217 mg cholesterol, 161 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.
This article appeared on page J - 4 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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