Few seafood dishes can compare with the warm octopus with potatoes, celery and vinaigrette at Pesce. It's only one of the memorable Venetian-inspired seafood dishes that will make an impression at this restaurant owned by Ruggero Gadaldi, who also owns Beretta, Antica and Delarosa. You can find exceptional grilled sardines and tuna conserva with a three-bean salad. While small plates are the specialty, a few larger plates are offered, including a whole roast fish, crab or lobster served with spaghetti. The handsome, compact interior features a 16-seat zinc bar, sleek teak shelving, mahogany paneling and hexagonal floor tiles.
Specialties: Braised octopus salad; crab tower, fennel and arugula salad; baccala (salt cod) and gigante beans; cioppino; sgroppino (a dessert drink); warm apricot bread pudding.
Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., until 11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.