Earlier this year, Incanto closed for a face-lift, which gave chef Chris Cosentino time to revamp his menu. The result is that he's gone further into the whole animal-style of dining, creating dishes that are rustic and lusty. His five main courses may include a braised duck leg with giblets, pork shoulder with cabbage, lamb neck with polenta, calf sweetbreads with kidneys or whole roasted sardines. Call ahead to order a "leg of beast" that serves eight to 10 people. The dining room is casual but sleeker in the remodel, which included some needed acoustical work. Owner Mark Pastore is in charge of the exceptional Italian wine and craft beer list.
Specialties: Handkerchief pasta with pork ragu; spaghettini with cured tuna heart; leg of beast menu; roasted lamb neck; bay leaf panna cotta.
Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday, until 9:30 p.m. Sunday-Monday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.