The Robiola cheeses of Northwestern Italy come in a variety of shapes, sizes, milk types and maturities. So what do they have in common? They tend to be small disks, relatively thin, with a soft rind and moist interior - delicate cheeses built to last for only a few weeks.
Exceptions abound, but that's an accurate description of the lovely Robiola Tre Latti from Luigi Guffanti, the esteemed Italian affinatore, or cheese ager.
The "tre latti" (three milks) indicates that this cheese is a blend of cow's, goat's and sheep's milk, in proportions that probably vary with the seasons. Mixed-milk cheeses such as this one are common in regions where farmers keep mixed herds. They help the cheesemaker manage seasonal fluctuations in milk supply.
In theory, Robiola Tre Latti, which comes from Piedmont, should be at its best in summer, when the availability of rich sheep's milk peaks. But the wheel I purchased for a recent dinner party was sublime, a 10-ounce serving of lusciousness.
It amused me to watch each of my guests cut a tentative little wedge as this unfamiliar cheese made its first tour of the table, then take a hearty slice when the tray came around again. I guess they liked it.
Robiola Tre Latti is probably only 2 to 3 weeks old by the time it reaches Bay Area cheese counters. It travels by air, which partly explains the high cost.
During its brief maturation, the cheese develops a thin white crust. Don't cut away this tender cloak - its texture enhances the Robiola's appeal. This type of rind can droop and slip when the cheese is super-ripe, but I prefer to see it still clinging to the interior.
Underneath it is a paste of pale cream, smooth and spreadable, with a cultured-milk tang. The three milks blend seamlessly, leaving a rich and buttery impression. Enjoy it with sparkling wine or the fragrant, almond-scented Arneis, the premier white wine of Piedmont.
Look for Guffanti's Robiola Tre Latti at Andronico's in San Francisco and Berkeley; Cheese Plus, Falletti Foods and Say Cheese in San Francisco; the Cheese Board in Berkeley; Paradise Foods in Novato; Woodlands Market in Kentfield; Big John's Market in Healdsburg; and several Bay Area Whole Foods.