So here's the skinny on Flacos: It's a vegan Mexican restaurant that grew out of its stand at Berkeley farmers' markets. Chef-owner Antonio Magana says he decided to create his own restaurant after getting bored with ordering vegetarian burritos without the cheese and sour cream.
I was hungry on my first visit, so I ordered the full plate platter ($9) - one entree (choice of soy-gluten-free tamale, a banana leaf-steamed tamale or taquitos), salad, rice and beans (refried or black).
Top choices include the soy-gluten-free tamale, which brings corn husk-steamed masa surrounding a filling of roasted poblano chile, refried pinto beans and potatoes. The taquito consists of a vegetarian "chicken" mixture rolled in a corn tortilla and fried. They're doused in Flacos' signature avocado salsa (also sold to-go for $6), which comes in mild or spicy, the latter with roasted habaneros.
Also worth trying: pozole ($5); chalupa filled with slow-cooked potatoes and soyrizo ($4); and a new dessert, arroz sin leche ($2.50), a soy-milk spin on the traditional rice pudding.
Another good way to end: Mexican hot chocolate ($2.50), a frothy concoction of not-too-rich raw cacao, cinnamon, sugar and soy milk.
Ingredients at Flacos are mostly organic - including the masa - and local, and Flacos maintains its presence at Berkeley's three farmers' markets. Starting next week, the restaurant is extending its hours to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays, and will also open on Sundays (noon-6 p.m.).
- Kelly Rae Hickman, food@sfchronicle.com
Flacos: 3031 Adeline St., Berkeley. (510) 981-8081. www.flacos.com. Noon-9 p.m. Tues.-Sat. No alcohol; credit cards accepted.
