East Bay: Piedmont Avenue

What's It Like?

Despite the encroachment of chains like Blockbuster and Starbucks (which didn't happen without a fight), Piedmont Avenue remains the kind of street where kids dress up on Halloween and parade down the sidewalks, and where local beat cops are greeted with a smile and a handshake. People who live in the surrounding neighborhoods come to the avenue almost every day to shop, eat, go to the movies or enjoy coffee or tea. In many ways, it feels like a small hometown.

Fenton's Creamery Black & Tan

The Piedmont Avenue business district runs between MacArthur Boulevard and Pleasant Valley Avenue in Oakland (see map -- or perhaps a satellite view?). Block for block, it may be the most interesting and eclectic district in Oakland. There are many wonderful one-of-a-kind shops and restaurants that a simple drive down the avenue does not even begin to reveal. There are also interesting shops just half a block off Piedmont on several side streets. To date, the sprinkling of chain establishments has been easy enough to ignore.

The surprising number of businesses makes the district perfect for a half-day adventure: after checking out the stores, you can settle in for lunch and perhaps even a sauna. Or hit the used bookstores and then take in a first-run movie or have a great dinner. Your stomach, your shopping bag and your imagination could all be full by the time your visit to Piedmont Avenue is over.

Getting There

Driving: Piedmont Ave. is off I-580 (from Hayward, SF or Berkeley) and CA-24 (from Walnut Creek), near the MacArthur BART station. There is a city parking lot at Piedmont Avenue and 41st Street. If you belong to City CarShare, there is a dedicated parking space in this lot.

To get there using public transit, use the TakeTransit Trip planner on 511.org.

Sights & Culture

Key System Mural: Long ago, a trolley system ran from San Francisco, across the Bay Bridge and up and down the hills and dales of Oakland and Berkeley. Dubbed the Key System, it had one line that came right up Piedmont Avenue. And it's just off Piedmont Avenue where you can enjoy a fresh neo-WPA mural that celebrates the system, its quixotic owner Francis "Borax" Smith, and the nostalgia we seem to have for vintage transit systems. 41st Street, between Piedmont Ave and Howe Street.

Glen Echo Park: Where once a sat a neglected pocket park and ditch now runs a restored section of Glen Echo Creek. Situated half a block south of Piedmont Avenue, this ribbon of riparian habitat includes oak saplings, ferns and a thicket of willow along the creek. The other portion of the park contains a pathway through a garden of native grasses, shrubs and flowers. It's a good place to get away from the bustle of the avenue. The park runs from the end of Panama Court to Montell Street, hopping Monte Vista Avenue along the way.

Mountain View Cemetery: Consider a necropolis, if you will, that is not only one of the top attractions in Oakland, but also a Bay Area treasure few in the Bay Area know exists. Frederick Law Olmstead designed Mountain View, which alone makes it a historic site. It contains the graves of infamous Bay Area robber barons such as Charles Crocker, as well as a Bechtel mausoleum. Other famous folks buried here include a few who actually had a shot at Paradise, including the dynamic duo of Bay Area architecture, Julia Morgan and Bernard Maybeck, as well as the Ghirardelli clan. Reliable rumor even has it that the Black Dahlia, whose family was from the area, rests in Mountain View, though the location of her grave is kept secret to prevent ghoulish visits by the curious. To top it all off, there are large sections of neglected plots that look like they withered from the mind of gothic illustrator Edward Gorey. You can walk your leashed dog along the lonely paths (on your own or on a guided tour), and the views of the Bay, San Francisco and the Golden Gate are spectacular. 5000 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 658-2588. (Web site)

Piedmont Cinemas: Locals love this Landmark-affiliated movie house for its commitment to independent and foreign films. The big ground floor theater is the best of the three screens, but the whole establishment has a worn and warm atmosphere that fits the avenue. Raffles for CDs and gift certificates are held Saturday nights. 4186 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 464-5980.

Piedmont Spring: Feeling weary and worn out? Chilled by our Bay Area clime? Head over to Piedmont Springs to take a dip in an outdoor redwood hot tub or to sweat it out in a Finnish sauna. You can also treat yourself, or your overworked honey, to a massage, a facial or a full-on salt body wrap. Prices are reasonable, and the tubs are open late. 3939 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 652-9191. (Web site)

Piedmont Yoga Studio: Enter this shrine to the practice of yoga and be amazed by the range of classes. Try one of the classes in Hatha, Yin, Sadhana or Kundalini yoga, or join the groups that meet to practice yoga for kids and teens, for people with cancer, for disabled folks and for pregnant women. Three very clean studios full of natural light give you plenty of room to bend, breathe and stretch. There is also a shop full of yoga supplies, meditation tapes and other holistic health goodies. 3966 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 653-9642. (Web site)

Restaurants

Baja: Apparently, being the only taqueria on the street for over a decade means you have to please everyone. A lobster burrito pushes the envelope -- a steak and lobster burrito just sounds wrong. But someone must be ordering the thing, along with the salmon, calamari and wasabi versions. Also find more pedestrian Mexican food like fish tacos and chicken burritos. 4070 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 547-2252.

Barney's: I know, I know. It's a chain, but we need to let families know that there's a reliable place to feed the kids. Burgers are the specialty -- there are over 50 listed on the menu, of the beef, chicken, turkey, garden and tofu variety. Dieters can look down their noses at the burger set by ordering one of the several salads. 4162 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 655-7180.

Baywolf: Those who say Oakland doesn't have haute cuisine should dine at Baywolf. For more than 25 years this Mediterranean bistro has wowed Bay Area eaters with a rotating menu featuring such delights as salt cod ravioli with fennel, red peppers and lemon, and slow cooked lamb with chick peas, spinach and saffron. 3853 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 655-6004. (Chronicle Review / Web site)

Cesar: This second incarnation of the bustling Berkeley tapas bar is identical to the original, and so is the Euro feel. This location is much bigger, though, and has a full kitchen—which means an expanded menu of Spanish-style small plates, as well as four "platos grandos." A small market sells chicken stock, cheese, sauces, salumi and more. 4039 Piedmont Ave. (between 40th and 41st streets), (510) 883-0222. (Chronicle review)

Chez Simone: When you order your meal chez Simone, you may also receive a serving of cranky. All is forgiven, however, with the delicious and filling menu of crepes, omelets and quiches, along with heavier dishes along the lines of cassoulet and coq au vin. The small restaurant is on the second floor of a lovely shaded shopping alley, and the effect can be charming when the weather is mild and the giant wisteria is in bloom. 4125 Piedmont Avenue (second level), (510) 655-1034.

Dopo: Counter seating, six tables inside and two tables outside on nice days makes having dinner at this increasingly popular Italian bistro quite a trick. It's a trick you'll want to master, however, once you taste menu items like the carpaccio, the artichoke soup and the saffron spaghetti. Delightful. The pizzas ain't no slouches, either, with exquisite Italian toppings that are much easier to digest than pronounce. 4293 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 652-3676. (Chronicle Review)

Fenton's Creamery: The heritage of Fenton's Creamery goes back to 1894 and includes a much more recent arson fire that closed it down for a few years. Today, it still sports upholstered booth benches and wire-backed chairs surrounding granite-topped tables. Massive sundaes come to the table so loaded with toppings that extra saucers are needed to catch the overflow. A big back room can be reserved for private parties, and there is outdoor seating. A gleaming grill allows the cooks to offer a savory menu that includes hamburgers and fries in addition to sandwiches like crab on grilled sourdough and the quirky egg-and-olive combination. Classic sundaes abound, like the Black and Tan, made with toasted almond and vanilla ice creams layered with hand-crafted caramel and chocolate fudge, and the Black and White, which stars chocolate and vanilla ice creams set between ribbons of marshmallow and fudge toppings. Nostalgia does have its price, so bring some extra cash along. (--SF Chronicle) 4226 Piedmont Avenue, (510)658-7000. (Web site)

Gaylord's Caffe Espresso: At Gaylord's, there are no chocolate covered blueberries, no green aprons, no attempts to sell you more than you order and no CDs that pair Ray Charles with the likes of James Taylor (!!!). Instead, you'll find Gaylord's is where locals unimpressed with all of the above come to read, jones on caffeine and meet friends. Even the local paramedics stop here regularly to fuel up. Open till midnight every day. 4150 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 658-2877.

Gregoire: The new branch of the gourmet to-go place on Berkeley's Cedar Street. (Chronicle review)

Commis: A slick, minimalist stage for rising star chef James Syhabout, who blends high-style techniques and unusual ingredients into dishes that are exciting and unique, like albacore tuna and cucumber, or fresh cow's milk cheese with Early Girl tomatoes, sheets of wheat bran, purslane and pickled shallots. Don't come hungry. 3859 Piedmont Ave., near Montell, (510) 653-3902. (Chronicle Review / Web site)

Juice Etc.: The epitome of a small business that does one thing perfectly. Try freshly made organic juices of several varieties, or order one of the many smoothies featuring berry, citrus or pineapple concoctions. The Health Booster's combo of lecithin, protein, bee pollen, brewers yeast and three kinds of bran should keep you going for quite some time. 3943 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 428-0300.

L'Amyx Tea Bar: Relax, my friend, over a nice pot of white tea or an herbal blend. The folks at L'Amyx know their extensive collection of teas, and will fill you in on the origins and caffeine content of each kind they offer. Tapioca bubble drinks, salads, sandwiches and desserts fill out the menu. 4179 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 594-8322. (Web site)

Little Shin Shin: A hands-down favorite among those in the know, Little Shin Shin's Chinese cuisine menu shines with entrees such as velvet chicken and jade prawns. 4258 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 658-9799.

LoCoco's: Homey, down-to-earth, tasty Italian food is the specialty at this little space on Piedmont. Long lines stretch out the door during peak hours, so plan accordingly. Cash only. 4270 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 652-6222. (Chronicle Review)

Ninna: The Thai emphasis at Asian-fusion restaurant Ninna has a way of winning over diners, as a glance at the filled seats testifies. Dishes include chicken breast in a yellow curry sauce and scallops on eggplant in a basil sauce. A good place to take a date and cuddle, or people-watch from the table in the front window. 4066 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 601-6441. (Chronicle Review)

Park Avenue Restaurant & Bar: Don't let the bar part fool you. The breakfast-to-dinner menu, with stops at brunch and lunch along the way, makes this recent addition to the avenue a perfect rival for Barney's when it comes to family diners. Burgers, pasta, chicken -- the choices range widely enough to please even the most recalcitrant rugrats. 4184 Piedmont, (510) 985-0990.

Rooz Cafe: Dig it -- Rooz Cafe has free wireless Internet access. And the art on the walls actually looks like an artist produced it. Stranger things have happened, I guess. In addition to Web access and art, you can order up an espresso drink, a soda, breakfast and lunch sandwiches or a panini. Outside tables help you find some fresh air when all of those laptops heat the place up. 4252 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 985-1360.

Tropix: If you need to scratch that Jamaican/Caribbean/Cuban itch, this is the place to do it. Pawpaw, cou cou, Jamaican jerk chicken and Cuban steak are just a few of the spicy delights found here. Add a heap of fried sweet plantains and a Cuban beer and you're good to go (especially if you didn't drive). Sunday brunch on the greenery-filled patio is a nice way to start off a lazy day. 3814 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 653-2444. (Chronicle Review)

Zatis: The Mediterranean cuisine at this local favorite ranges from Turkey to Spain and back again. The menu packs so many choices, in fact, that it becomes difficult to choose. Sure to please any fan of lamb, feta, garlic and eggplant. 4029 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 658-8210.

Shopping

Bella Cermica: Colorful ceramics, from all across the Italian peninsula, cover the floors, walls and shelves of this small family-owned shop. Find beautifully painted vases, tureens, candlesticks and basins. A great place to pick up a nice gift for special occasions. 3982 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 601-7938. (Web site)

Black Swan Books: This shop approaches its decade of existence with a firm grasp on what a good used bookstore should be. There are enough books here to keep you distracted but not enough to overwhelm you. Besides the first edition and unique books, also find an offering of fun and rare maps, prints, illustrations and old magazines and guides. 4236 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 428-2881.

Crackerjacks: Cute shop keeps the budget in hand with a well-chosen selection of new and used children's and maternity clothes. The space is small enough to feel welcoming, while offering several corners and racks to divert determined shoppers. Used toys and even used children's books are also for sale. 14 Glen Avenue, (510) 654-8844.

Dakot-Art: Here's a little place full of unique items made by local and international artisans. Hunt for a find among the vintage ceramics and artistic cards, ornaments and decorative accent pieces for the home. Dakot-Art is the West Coast representative of Imogen Cunningham photographs, and will help put any print or artwork of yours into a custom frame. 4299 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 428-9040.

Dr. Comics & Mr. Games: A place all serious comic lovers should check out. Dr. Comics has the latest Japanese collectible card and toys, a good selection of Japanese manga in English, games, and comics, comics, comics. Lots and lots of comics. Graphic novels are here, too, as are comics for the over 18 set, if you know what I mean (wink wink). 4014 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 601-7800.

Dress Best for Less:This thrift store, benefitting local Piedmont schools, has everything from clothes and furniture to bric-a-brac kitsch. 3861 Piedmont Avenue, (510)658-8525.

Issues: Around the corner from Peet's, this newsstand carries hundreds of titles as well as 'zines and other independent publications. Issues also sells books, t-shirts, vinyl, cards, gifts and are happy to order special items for you. Owners Joe and Noella also show art and jewelry by local artists and keep treats for your dog behind the counter if you bring the furry one along. 20 Glen Ave. at Piedmont, (510) 652-5700. (Website)

Lost & Found Antiques: For 22 years, Bill and Mary Doniger have run this unique antique store. They specialize in odds and ends like scales, fountain pens, scientific instruments, microscopes and historical documents. Shelves and cases are packed with these and other items -- glass eyes anyone? -- making Lost & Found one of a kind. 4220 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 654-2007.

MontanoVelo/Transition Sports: Don't even kid about biking or triathletes within a mile of this place. If you're looking for the bike that can take you there, back again and there once more, MontanoVelo is the place to come. These guys not only know racing, touring and mountain bikes, they know how to use, abuse and repair them. The Transition Sports portion of the establishment will whip you into triathlon shape with in-store clinics on subjects like strength and mental conditioning, and nutrition. They've got the gear and the wear for each leg of a triathlon.4266 Piedmont Avenue, MontanoVelo: (510) 654-8356, Transition Sports: (510) 601-1834. (Web site)

Piedmont Cobbler: The vintage sign above the door is shaped like a shoe and reads, "Shoe Renewing." If your shoes need it, this is the place to come. Carlos will set you up with reparative stitching, a beautiful shine and renovated heels. You can also pick up new laces, several tones of shoe polish and salt stain remover. 4200 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 654-1471.

Piedmont Lane: This is one of those antique and collectible stores that has it all. And I mean all. There are objet d'art, pieces of furniture, vintage games, sculptures and paintings on every wall, shelf and most square inches of the carpet. One strong theme of the collection is Asian artifacts, from 19th century Japanese woodblock prints to wooden Thai Buddhas to Chinese landscapes. Schedule at least an hour to see all the wonders filling two rooms and an upstairs art gallery. 4121 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 654-4706.

Piedmont Lighting Co.: You say you don't need a new lamp? You will, my friend, once you walk through these portals. Lamps for the floor, the ceiling, the table, the wall -- whew! Find modern and contemporary designs, along with a few Tiffany knocks-offs. Price range from affordable to I-can-buy-this-or-a-new-suit. Try to resist imagining a few of them in your home. Just try! 4094 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 923-1115.

Piedmont Tobacconist: Comfortable chairs and a cozy atmosphere make Piedmont Tobacconist a great place to try out and buy a cigar or some pipe tobacco. Comprehensive pretty much sums up the cigar selection, and the owners are usually on hand to chat and make recommendations. 17 Glen Avenue, (510) 652-pipe (7473).

Pimlico Place: Shopping for trinkets and home decor rarely gets better than this. Fabulous jewelry, pillows, vintage flatware and barware sets and a seemingly infinite number of tchotchkes in a galaxy of rich colors encrust the main shop, making shoppers feel like they've entered an enchanted cave. The roomier Annex doesn't have quite the same feel, but every available space is taken up with prints, tables, china hutches, luxurious chairs and utterly hypnotic beaded handbags. 4135 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 655-7081. Annex: 4125 Piedmont Avenue (street level), (510) 655-7333.

Pioneer Bike Shop: This small, locally-owned bike shop has helped East Bay bikers for decades. If you're on a journey from BART to the East Bay hills, stop by Pioneer to get tips on the best routes or for that extra pump of air you might need to make it up those steep, long inclines. 11 Rio Vista Avenue, (510) 658-8981.

Sew Images: This is one of the many shops on Piedmont that give you that 1968 feeling. Sewing machines, for goodness sakes. The latest and the greatest mind you, as well as repairs of the oldest. Not just machines, but spool upon spool of thread lining the wall. Wait, there's more. Sew Images offers sewing classes! Always wanted to floor your friends with a DIY frock? Well, here's your chance. There are beginner and advanced classes available for adults, as well as after-school versions that cater to kids as young as 8 and as old as teenagers. 4172 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 601-8739. (Web site)

Waterlillies : Trying to get in touch with your inner Zen or third eye? This shop carries all the New Age/Eastern spirituality decor a dabbler could need, including rock gardens, fountains, feng shui books and more. 3935 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 601-7768.

Spectator Books : Embodies everything great about small stores. They specialize in free searches for out-of-print books, and have a hearty mix of both new and used tomes. New and used classic jazz CDs for sale make it an even more interesting stop. 4163 Piedmont Avenue, (510)653-7300.

Nightlife

Cato's Ale House: Although you can take the kids to this one, perhaps the 22 beers and the $1 sake shots are best left to adults when the evening begins to age. There is often live music along the lines of jazz and world bands, and on other nights a DJ keeps the mid-tempo beat going. One piece of advice: If you must order the catatoes -- those large, hard-to-swallow potato wedges -- make sure you have a pint of Guinness to help wash them down. 3891 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 655-3349. (Web site)

Egbert Souse's: Why hipsters have yet to take over this place is one of the mysteries of our time. It has dive appeal without being truly dangerous. It has elderly patrons drinking waaaaaaay too early in the afternoon. It has Technicolor old-timey murals of W.C. Fields in his various roles, including the eponymous Souse. It has a kitchen that serves both hamburgers and pot stickers. How many days remain before DJ TooTrendy discovers this corner bar paean to alcoholism? 3758 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 658-4740.

Kerry House: The true dive every avenue needs. This one has an Irish provenance and features a dark interior, a gloomy pool table and a smoking room upstairs. It is simply too much to imagine how this establishment bears on the one next to it, Kerry House Raj Indian Cuisine. 4092 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 652-4032.

Updated by Chrissa Banner, Special to SF Gate, 1/02