East Bay: Downtown Berkeley

What's It Like?

When the many worlds of Berkeley meet, they tend to do so downtown. Here, old money yuppies, aging hippies, college youth and the homeless meet in a whirlpool of commerce, culture and craziness. You can step from an expensive dinner, through a mostly benevolent gathering of street folk and into an avant-garde theater in the space of five minutes.

Empty storefronts and chain stores pock the south side of downtown, while the northern end hosts several Tibetan, Indian and Southeast Asian shops and eateries. Several buildings that rose in the early years of the 20th century remain, former hotels from a time when only four or five stories were needed to scrape the sky.

Berkeley's justifiably famous arts district sits in the center of downtown. Here, three theaters, a jazz school and a Brazilian capoeira club crowd a block bounded on its east end by a chic restaurant and its west end by an airy new apartment building. Nearly 30 movies are showing on any given night in nearby cinemas.

Cafe society congregates on Center Street, which is adjacent to the University of California's west entrance. On warm days, faculty, professionals and students eat at the sidewalk tables under low trees, tasting everything from the elegant servings of chic restaurants to the offerings of the chain-food and coffee outlets.

If you can't find something to watch, eat or buy in downtown Berkeley, call the doctors because you don't have a pulse.

Parking

Parking in downtown Berkeley is available at the Center Street and Allston Way garages. Closer to campus, there's open-air parking lot along Oxford Street between Kittredge and Allston. Parking can be challenging during football and basketball games at Cal, and during events at the giant Berkeley Community Theater (located on Allston Way, at the edge of the rebuilt and transforming Berkeley High School campus). Of course, there's no reason not to take public transportation. BART's Downtown Berkeley stop is right in the middle of the action, and the area is served by around a dozen AC Transit busses that'll take you to points west, north and south from dawn to midnight. For more info, see the Downtown Berkeley Association's Web site.

Sights & Culture

Central Library: First built in 1931, this lovely shrine to reading received an expert makeover a few years back. The Art Deco style and embellishments outshine the crass establishments hunkering in the surrounding commercial district. Inside, huge windows pump in gallons of light, and from the top floor there is an unparalleled public view of Mount Tam, the Golden Gate and the San Francisco skyline. There's a teen room and an entire floor for younger kids. 2090 Kittredge St., (510) 981-6100. (Web site)

Capoeira Arts Cafe: Remember about seven or eight years ago, when you first saw people practicing capoeira, and you were like, "What the ... ?!" Little did you know that this Brazilian synthesis of martial arts and tribal dancing would attract a following big enough to warrant a teaching and performance space with an adjacent cafe. Well, it has. Take youth or adult, beginning or advanced classes. Or sit in the cafe and watch the spinning, leaping and kicking over a cup of espresso and a slice of cake. Just remember, the air does become thick with grunts and thuds. 2026 Addison St., (510) 666-1255. (Web site)

Berkeley Poetry Walk: The block of Addison between Shattuck Avenue and Milvia Street has 126 short poems frozen onto cast-iron plaques on the sidewalk (see photos). The nimbly provocative range of verses starts with an Ohlone song ("On the rim of the world I am dancing") and takes detours to William Shakespeare and Bertolt Brecht (both figurative fixtures at Berkeley Rep) before settling into imagery from the recent past ("I'd rather go to the corner store / Than sing hosannah on that golden shore.") (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate)

Other Things to Do

The Berkeley Sauna: A small, intimate bath house with private tubs and saunas. Massage is also offered. Geared more towards healing than hedonism. 1947 Milvia St., (510) 845-8595. (Web site)

Habitot: Beg, borrow or steal a child (7 years or under) if you don't happen to have one. Habitot could almost have been designed by children (it was designed by parents), and it satisfies the kid in just about everyone. Even the people working here have goofy grins on their faces. There's a wiggle wall, a wind tunnel, an area for water play with spouts and a toy slide, materials for paint, papier mâché and clay creations, face painting and an infant/toddler garden. The stage might have someone singing songs or telling stories. The toy library and resource center are available to members. Classes from parenting to art to massage, all sorts of special events, and a room for parties complete the fun-filled picture. 2065 Kittredge Ave., (510) 647-1111. (Web site)

The Hot Tubs: Clean spacious private rooms with hot tubs and saunas. Shiatsu and Swedish massage are also offered. 1915 University at Martin Luther King, Jr. Way, (510) 843-4343.

Restaurants

Beckett's: What could be odder than naming a restaurant and pub, a place of indulgence, after an author whose spare writing created hermetically sealed worlds of fathomless ennui? Well, at least both make you want to drink. At Beckett's, you can indulge your whim for Guinness, Murphy's or Cafferys straight from the tap, and you can order up such favorites as Irish stew, steak and kidney pie, bangers and mash and fish and chips. To misquote the author, "I can't eat another bite ... I'll eat another bite." 2271 Shattuck Ave., (510) 647-1790. (Chronicle review/Web site)

Bistro Liaison: There are beaucoup opportunities for sampling French cuisine in downtown Berkeley; Bistro Liaison is one of the more energetic establishments. The gourmet charge begins at 7 a.m. with pâtisserie, marching right through a lunch of croques, mussels and steak frites, and planting the francophone flag at dinner with escargot, veal, skirt steak, bouillabaisse and duck. The restaurant also caters, hosts private events and organizes a wine club. Given the dowdiness of the building and the nearness of the street, the atmosphere of Bistro Liaison is not as intimate as it would like to believe. The elan of staff and food more than make up for it, however. 1849 Shattuck Ave., (510) 849-2155. (Chronicle reivew/Web site)

Bongo Burger: There are three Bongo Burger establishments in Berkeley, so it definitely has a following. The reason could either be the titular menu of beef, turkey and black bean burgers. Or, it could be the many Middle East-influenced items, such as the Persian burger, shish kebab, eggplant sandwich and hummus. In any event, if you have a hankering for burgers and falafel, you no longer have to choose between the two. 2154 Center St., (510) 548-7700.

Cafe Tibet: Not sure how often a yen for Tibetan food comes up with most folks, but those who have dined here find they want to visit again, and soon. Start with appetizers of curried potatoes or eggplant chips. The hearty vegetable soup contains oats and tofu. Entrees include momos, a Tibetan dumpling, beef prepared several ways and curries. Since the chef used to make dessert at Stars, she cannot help but go off the Tibetan ranch when it comes to the sweets. No worries, though -- you can still order a traditional dessert of pasta rolled in brown sugar and topped with cheese. (Web site) 2020 University Ave., (510) 548-5553

Cancun: They offer some unusual dishes such as chicken in pumpkin-seed mole and cactus in mole, and have a wide selection of vegetarian and seafood choices. But the bigger draw might be the salsa bar, where diners can choose from about a dozen toppings from the fruit-based to the traditional Cancun. The cheerful room in an appropriately Spanish-style building has enormously high ceilings, pillars here and there and color everywhere. 2134 Allston Way, (510) 549-0964.

Chaat Cafe: The decor won't blow you over, but some of the small Indian dishes known as chaat might. The popular Chaat Cafe also serves tasty sandwiches and wraps. 1902 University Ave. (near Martin Luther King Way), (510) 845-1431. (Chronicle Review)

Crepes A-Go-Go: A crepe done right is a thing of beauty. Here, they're silky, hot and tender with delectible fillings -- crepe nirvana. Have them the European way (i.e. the only way that matters), filled with egg, mushrooms, cheeses and other savory choices. Or go for dessert with Nutella, chocolate, banana, strawberries and more. The place doesn't look as good as the food tastes, so don't be fooled. 2125 University Ave., (510) 841-7722.

Downtown: Smart, satisfying dishes, like fried olives, smoked trout and scalloped mousse, confit duck legs and seasonal risotto served in a casually sophisticated setting. (-SF Chronicle) 2102 Shattuck Ave. (at Addison), (510) 649-3810. (Chronicle review/Web site)

La Cascada: A no-lard taqueria ... the apocalypse really is at hand, isn't it? Actually, La Cascada does a great job of making vegetarian burritos filled with ingredients such as zucchini, squash, mushrooms and green beans. You can also get your carnivore on with beef, carnitas and chicken burritos, or fish tacos. The beans and rice are vegan. 2164 Center St., (510) 704-8688.

La Note: Reading the Provençal menu is like being force-fed the cooking section of "The New York Times" -- not that there's anything wrong with that. The breakfasts of lovely omelettes, lemon-gingerbread pancakes and brioche french toast are truly delightful, and eating them on the patio on a sunny day can nearly transport you to the Seventh Arrondisement. They also serve traditional French lunch and dinner dishes. 2377 Shattuck Ave., (510) 843-1535. (Chronicle review / Web site)

Le Théâtre: If there's any place serving French cuisine quite like this one, it's likely in France. Braised rabbit? Pan fried pheasant? Roasted half-duckling? Although the menu reads like an inventory of the local petting zoo, in fact many of the ingredients come from an organic farm near Sebastopol. Of course, there's also pork loin, lamb chops tenderloin and seafood, along with the dreaded foie gras. Le Théâtre is half a block off the theater district, tucked away off the street. It's a perfect place for dinner before the theater or for l'affaire du coeur. 1919 Addison St., (510) 644-1707.

Long Life Vegi House: A winner of best vegetarian and best Chinese restaurant in polls, this all-vegetarian Berkeley institution is the place for lovers of textured soy protein. 2129 University Ave., (510) 845-6072.

Lucre Lounge and Afghan Oasis: The handsome dining room in Berkeley's Shattuck Hotel, a 1910 landmark, has reopened with a large, bold black and red lounge that features live jazz and belly dancers Wednesday through Saturday nights. The lounge, one of the few real bars in Berkeley, adjoins the cavernous dining room where diners can sample chef Naim Amir's Afghan dishes. A garlicky pesto-like cilantro-walnut dip comes to the table with flat bread as soon as you are seated. The garlic theme continues in the yogurt-mint sauce that seasons appetizers like aushak (leek-stuffed ravioli) and buranee kaddo (golden baked butternut squash), and lamb, chicken or fish kebabs. (-SF Chronicle) 2086 Allston Way (at Shattuck), (510) 841-1390.

Manga-Manga Japanese Bistro: Located on the corner of Shattuck Avenue and Channing Way in a building with a pumpkin-colored upper story and a vivid-blue-tile lower story. Inside, white paper shoji screens have been set inside the plate glass windows to afford privacy from the street. Wooden partitions, a carpeted floor and the soft voices of servers all promote an atmosphere of simplicity and peace. Cartoon-style illustrations from Japanese games and comics decorate the walls, adding playfulness and color to the decor. Food is well prepared and tastes are subtle. 2399 Shattuck Ave., (510) 704-8224.

Mittaphab: This Lao-Thai restaurant offers nice servings of familiar Thai curries and noodle dishes such as pad thai. The attraction is the Lao cuisine, which here seems to have more in common with Cambodian cooking than Thai. Try the delicate larb, a mixture of mixed meat, lime and chili cradled in a lettuce leaf; the shredded bamboo soup, the chicken with silver noodles or the rich and filling catfish soup. A great place for a different taste of Southeast Asia. 1923 University Ave., (510) 548-1888.

Nanayiro: Get your Yokohama on with octopus, cold tofu or seaweed appetizers. Follow those delights with udon, donburi, ton katsu (fried pork cutlet) or tempura. Most, though, will go right for the sushi pieces, temaki and maki rolls. Vegetarian selections are conveniently indicated on the menu. The service is typically efficient. 2399 Shattuck Ave., (510) 704-8224.

Oscar's Hot Dogs: A little north of downtown Berkeley proper, Oscar's has managed to retain its utter decorlessness for almost 50 years. The guy flame-broiling your patty to specifications might have been doing it nearly as long. It's a real burger joint, with burgers, steak sandwiches, fries, shakes and the indispensable banana cream pie. 1890 Shattuck Ave., (510) 849-2164.

Papa's Restaurant and Catering: Enjoy delicate Persian dishes such as chicken with pomegranate sauce and ground walnuts or lamb with tomatoes and yellow split peas. Kebabs of the chicken, lamb or beef varieties can be had, and all meats are kosher. 2026 University Ave., (510) 841-0884. (Chronicle review/Web site)

Pie in the Sky: Only in Berkeley would a hole in the wall pizza joint feel the need to sell pizza with eggplant and walnuts on it by the slice. This concoction is a daily offering, believe it or not, along with more traditional choices like cheese or pepperoni. 2124 Center St., (510) 848-8678

Raphael: What an intriguing idea -- serve traditional Italian dishes but keep them vegetarian. No veal, no beef, no ham. Well, there is a fish section, but mostly the offerings consist of veggie pizzas, risottos, antipasti and polenta, along with veggie and vegan pastas. The surroundings are reminiscent of a fabled Little Italy hangout, with dark wood furnishings and white tablecloths. A small bar up front is a great place to have a Campari. Sidewalk dining is available on sunny days. 2132 Center St., (510) 644-9500.

Ryowa Ramen: This is as close as you'll come in these parts to a experiencing a Japanese side alley or train station ramen house. Try the soy bean, butter corn, or pork ramen, along with several noodle dishes and the potstickers known as gyoza. Although in Japan the establishment would likely be a bit less ramshackle, this place is authentic enough to simply close when they run out of ingredients, as the menu warns. Lunch specials are generous and cheap. 2068 University Ave., (510) 883-0667.

Salerno: No radicchio or reggiano in sight. This is good old-fashioned Americanized Italian food. Cozy, noisy dining room and '60s-style lounge. 2468 Shattuck Ave., (510) 549-2662.

Sushi Ko Japanese Cuisine: Always popular with the workday lunch crowd, the Berkwazee. Academics, lawyers, shopkeepers, and business people enjoy the lively atmosphere in which traditional Japanese food and Americanized sushi that's playfully designed and tasty are served. 64 Shattuck Square (east side of the square on Shattuck between Center and Addison); (510) 845-6601.

Thai Noodle: These days, even in a college town it can be difficult to find a cheap, filling meal for a few bucks. Thai Noodle is one place that still fills the gastronomic needs of starving students. Sate the beast with a pad thai, lad nah or pad sea ew noodle dish, or pick from many rice plates and noodle soups. The atmosphere befits the patrons -- sallow and tired, yet very busy. 1936 Shattuck Ave., (510) 848-6531.

Tuk Tuk Thai: What differentiates Tuk Tuk from the million other Thai restaurants are the bright atmosphere, big windows, very friendly service and food that always tastes fresh. The curries and soups are refreshing and light, and the sizzling platters add a little zest to dinner. Many locals, though, opt for takeout. 2468 Shattuck Ave., (510) 540-6360.

Udupi Palace: The southern Indian, exclusively vegetarian cuisine dished up at Udupi must be a hit, since the restaurant has doubled in size since it opened a few years back. The rice crepes (dosai), rice and lentil pancakes (uthappam) and the vegetable curries and paneers leave chicken tandoori in the dust. The dust, I tell you! 1901-1903 Shattuck Ave., (510) 843-6600.

Venus: Warm, colorful and friendly, Venus is a good neighborhood spot that puts its heart into the food. Spinach salad and desserts, like chocolate bread pudding, are tops, and many of the ingredients are organic. Local art on the exposed brick walls offers plenty of fodder for conversation. (-SF Chronicle) 2327 Shattuck Ave. (near Bancroft Way), (510) 540-5950. (Chronicle review)

Zatar: The charming, decorative interior is a delightful, cozy setting for Middle Eastern food crafted from organic ingredients. Don't miss the lamb or the house-made ice cream. (-SF Chronicle) 1981 Shattuck Ave. (near University) Berkeley, (510) 841-1981. (Chronicle review)

CAFES:

Arinell's Pizza: Hole-in-the-wall establishment has been serving great pizza since 1975. The cooks turn out about 70 to 80 pizzas a day from the brick-floor oven, including thin crust pizza, plain slices (with choice of toppings), thick Sicilian style slices and whole pies. The owner, who got his recipe from Rome and his training in New York, insists on no ham or pineapple. The space is tiny, so don't plan to sit down. (-SF Chronicle) 2119 Shattuck Ave., (510) 841-4035.

Au Coquelet: Au Coquelet is your best bet downtown for late-night nibbling and hanging out; they're open until 1:30 weeknights, 2 a.m. on weekends. The big space filled with small tables invites lingering -- so much so that there's a sign asking you not to hog a table for more than two hours, and to buy something. The nerve! Sandwiches, burgers, beer/wine, coffee and sweets. 2000 University Ave., (510) 845-0433.

The Bake Shop: While they definitely bake here, it's what they put in and on the scones, breads, sandwiches and pizzas that will keep you coming back. Try one of the day's special gourmet pizzas, or choose a turkey sandwich with pear-apple chutney, balsamic onions and swiss cheese ... or a mushroom turnover, or coconut flan ... or just bring a big bag to take it all. 1926 Shattuck Ave., (510) 841-0773. (Web site)

Cafe Panini: This spacious cafe spills out into a secluded, sun-drenched, vine-encrusted courtyard hidden from the hustle of Shattuck Avenue. Inside, the attractive cafe is warmed by impressive baking ovens. A sample hot panini: prosciutto, melted mozzarella cheese, roasted mushrooms, spinach pesto and sun-dried tomatoes. The cafe also serves soup, salads and desserts. Open for lunch on weekdays. 2115 Allston Way (enter through the brick archway), (510) 849-0405.

Gelateria Naia: This local chain is one of those places that make the Bay Area a food mecca. It may "just" be a gelato shop, but, oh, the gelato ... traditional Italian flavors like zabajone, pistachio and nocciola are joined by the chocolate Scharffen Berger, Thai iced tea and cardamom. For vegetarians and vegans, there's a cornucopia of fruit sorbettos, in flavors such as lemon, peach and fig, pomegranate, prickly pear and rhubarb, as well as a few very good soy-based frozen desserts. 2106 Shattuck Ave., (510) 883-1568. (Web site)

Rap's: One of those little-known places with basic food so wholesome and well made, those who find it become regulars. The doorway is set into a long, gray-green wall along Allston Way just up from Shattuck. (If you're looking for the sign, you won't spot it unless you're standing across the street.) Inside the green entranceway, Aliya from Iran makes sandwiches, smoothies and coffees, and offers her opinions on life and politics to the regulars. Her turkey sandwich is made with meat roasted and sliced on site, sweet cranberry sauce and hot peppers (delicious!). A few tables are set in an adjacent courtyard. 2109 Allston Way.

Raw Energy: Replenish your body's vital forces with all-organic, vegan and raw juices, smoothies, salads and pizza at this window-front cafe. Yes, that's raw pizza. 2050 Addison St., (510) 665-9464. (Web site)

Royal Ground Coffee: Hip-modernist atmosphere, with mellow music on the airwaves and a dense coffee aroma floating out the door. High, plate-glass windows along two streets open the grey concrete floor, cafe tables and exposed ceiling pipes to glinting sunshine. Patrons bring along laptops and work on their papers or catch up on e-mail while they drink coffee, "uncoffee" or an iced drink. Coffee is also sold by the pound, and there's a wide assortment of sweets for sale, including cupcakes, cakes by the slice, big, luscious cookies and biscotti. 2409 Shattuck Ave., (510) 849-9888.

Yali's Cafe: A cheerful comfy modern room, with some cozy armchairs and banquettes occupied by UC Berkeley students chatting and/or studying. Yali's offers soups, salads, sandwiches, beer and wine as well as coffee drinks. 1920 Oxford St., (510) 843-2233.

Shopping

Berkeley Farmers' Market: The Farmers' Market operates on two days at two locations, offering two different experiences. On Saturdays on Center Street, the crowd is getting groceries, while on Tuesdays everyone seems to know everyone else and there have been verified sightings of genuine hippies. Scientists are stunned. Run by the Ecology Center, it's one of the most environmentally conscious farmers' markets in the Bay Area. Almost all of the produce is organic, and a half dozen tent-cafes serve a variety of ethnic foods as well as deliciously buttery pastries. Fruits, veggies, cheeses, jams, live plants and live music. Tuesday, 2-7 pm (summer), 1 pm-dusk (winter), Derby Street and Martin Luther King Way; (510) 548-3333. Saturday, 10 am-2 pm, Center Street and Martin Luther King Way; (510) 548-3333. (Web site)

Ace Berkeley Hardware: A store for hardware aficionados as well as normal people. Everything from deadbolts to plastic wading pools to dowels to muffin pans. There's a hobby and toy paradise downstairs, with more electric trains and models than any kid, no matter how obsessed, could ever play with. An electric train runs overhead upstairs, as it has for many, many years. 2145 University Ave., (510) 845-0410. (Web site)

Body Time: Established in 1970 as an alternative to the cosmetic industry and its nasty tendencies to damage the environment, women's bank balances and their self-esteem, Body Time has made a smooth transition to current bath and skincare obsessions. They still carry kimonos, scented glycerin soaps and perfume oils, make most of the products themselves and will scent most items to order, but they've added essential oils, alpha hydroxy products and all sorts of aromatherapy items to appeal to today's consumer. You'll also find great bath toys, hair accessories, makeup and gift sets on themes from bath paints for kids to a night of love. 1942 Shattuck Avenue, (510) 841-5818. (Web site)

Comic Relief: Everything that comes in comic-book form, and some things that don't such as videos, toys, T-shirts and collectibles. Sections such as European, art, fringe culture, underground/erotica and alternative make this the best -- and likely the biggest at its new location -- comic book store around. The Web site provides shopping, info and links. 2138 University Ave., (510) 843-5002. (Web site)

Eastwind Books of Berkeley: Here's a prime source for books by and about Asia and the Asian diaspora. Read up on Eastern philosophies and religions, martial arts, and Asian literature and art. Find Mandarin and Cantonese language CDs, tapes and books for adults and children. 2066 University Ave., (510) 548-2350. (Web site)

Games of Berkeley: Lots of stuff from fantasy and role-playing games to croquet sets to board games. Game rooms are available downstairs. 2151 Shattuck Ave., (510) 540-7822. (Web site)

Industrial Strength: Tattoos and body piercing, featuring a huge selection of body jewelry in stainless steel, titanium, 18K solid gold and acrylic. 2434 Dwight Way, (510) 644-0968. (Web site)

Ivan Home: Mid-century and vintage furniture pieces are spiced up with a healthy supply of found and novelty objects. Among the stock are comical teaching charts from classrooms in the 1940s, '50s and '60s (e.g. "Essentials of a well fitting shoe"; "Alcohol -- the narcotic") in high-quality canvas, lettering and numbers that were used for gas pricing, and old church signs and movie marquees. Furniture seen here has included a Barcelona chair, Bruno Hansen teak chairs, a Danish teak credenza and Casalino child's chairs. A few local designers are represented as well. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 1954 University Ave. (at Milvia Street), (510) 548-3040. (Chronicle article/Web site)

Missing Link Bicycle Co-op: Berkeley may have more cooperatives per capita than any other city, but one of the most beloved is Missing Link, which sits a stone's throw from the UC campus. In the main store, you can obtain informed staff opinions about the best new bike for your size and purposes, and pick up accessories and clothing. Across the street at the Annex, see what kind of deal you can find on a used bike or tune up your trustworthy old steed with their free loaner tools. (Don't know how? They also have free repair classes.) Main shop: 1988 Shattuck Ave., (510) 843-7471; Annex: 1961 Shattuck Ave., (510) 843-4763. (Web site)

Mod Lang: A great tiny storefront with sections on electronica, '60s pop, exotica and psychadelic-folk-progressive. New and used vinyl and CDs. You can get on their weekly e-mail list for new releases, events and promos. 2136 University Ave. at Shattuck, (510) 486-1880. (Chronicle article/Web site)

The Other Change of Hobbit: Specializing in new and used science fiction and fantasy, TOCH also carries mysteries, children's books (again, emphasis on fantasy) and a little general fiction. It's a nice place to hang out, even if they aren't hosting one of their many events, and the knowledgeable staff is happy to offer recommendations. The Web site aims to be a virtual store, with easy-to-browse bookshelves and updates on the store cat's health. 2020 Shattuck Ave., (510) 848-0413. (Web site)

Pegasus: Independent bookstores live! Pegasus/Pendragon has three stores in the Berkeley/Oakland area. This one is a nicely messy space selling new and used books and CDs. You can also find greeting cards, magazines, calendars, etc. You can find what you're looking for, and maybe some treasure you didn't know existed. 2349 Shattuck Ave., (510) 649-1320. (Web site)

Pettingell Book Bindery: A one-of-a-kind treasure, and a bit of a secret. Open since the '20s and bought by the present owner in '93, Pettingell provides bookbinding, book repair, portfolio and presentation services. The small retail area in the front of the shop has bookbinding supplies, some old books and gorgeous Florentine, French marbled, Japanese and handmade paper. 2181 Bancroft Way, (510) 845-3653.

Saxology: This tiny storefront showcases a big mission -- keeping saxophone music alive and lively. Buy instruments, reeds and sheet music, have the sax you already own repaired or find out when lessons are available. This store is as rare as an original Coltrane LP, and as priceless. 1956 University Ave., (510) 843-2436. (Web site)

Scandinavian Designs: Some fancy stuff, and a lot of reasonably-priced modular bookcases and office furniture in veneer. It looks like real furniture, and it's only a little more than the dread unfinished knotty pine. Most of the stuff is simple without being austere, and there are some more daring designs for those looking for a little more oomph in their living quarters. 2101 Shattuck Ave., (510) 848-8250. (Web site)

Stonemountain & Daughter: A huge fabric store with low prices on everything from cotton prints to bridal silks. They sometimes have special treats such as fabrics from Africa, and always offer classes on a variety of needle-wise subjects. 2518 Shattuck Ave., (510) 845-6106. (Web site)

Stop the Clock: Nice vintage stuff, with plenty of Hawaiian shirts at all times and piles of them in the summer. Some vintage-inspired modern items. 2110 Addison St., (510) 841-2142.

The Used Computer Store: A sales and repair shop that has been around since 1984, and perhaps those were better days. The staff attitude ranges from mild curiosity to indifference, but you can find good deals on PCs and Macs. They also sell ink cartridges, and run a repair service for students who decided it was a good idea to take the laptop to that kegger. 2440 Shattuck Ave., (510) 548-8686. (Web site)

Trout Farm: The sign above the front door says it all: Art Deco, antiques, furniture, collectibles, weird stuff. 2179 Bancroft Way, (510) 843-3565.

Zasu & Violets': Hats fit for Nora Charles or a P.G. Wodehouse heroine, from rainhats to nonsensical topknots spouting vintage veiling. You can choose from other accessories such as shawls, jewelry and velvet slippers to complete your stylish ensemble. Warning: bring your gold nuggets -- such artisanship doesn't come cheap. 1790 Shattuck Ave., (510) 845-1409.

Nightlife

Anna's Jazz Island: Anna brings it all back home with her jazz club just off Shattuck. The evening starts with drink specials and jazz movies, and quickly moves to live music most nights of the week. Tuesdays provide an open mike for hopeful singers. The dim lighting and corner stage give the place a real club feel. Fresh appetizers and dessert are served. Dinners, however, consist of TV dinners fresh from the microwave. Best to stick with the drinks and the tunes. 2120 Allston Way, (510) 841-5299. (Web site)

Aurora Theatre: This intimate 150-seat venue is well-situated between the Berkeley Rep and the Jazz School. The Aurora's dedicated actors and directors, committed to both modern and classic theater, bring vigor and excitement to the nightlife of Berkeley. 2081 Addison St., (510) 843-4822. (Web site)

Beckett's: See listing under Restaurants.

Berkeley Repertory Theatre: Founded in the late 1960s in a College Avenue storefront, the Berkeley Rep moved to Downtown Berkeley two decades ago and had a major renovation and expansion in 2000-2001. Its fine theatre and excellent reputation make it the anchor of the arts district and one of Berkeley's most important institutions. Known for producing both classics and new artistic work, the Berkeley Rep won a Tony Award in 1997 as an outstanding regional theatre. New to the Rep are the 400-seat Rhoda Theatre and an ambitious theatre school for youth and adults. 2025 Addison St., (510) 647-2949; theatre school (510) 647-2972.

The Jazz School: A place for serious jazz students and lovers. A Sunday afternoon concert series features some of the best jazz musicians in the Bay Area. Friday afternoon concerts are free and are given by students. Modern and artfully designed, the school has a café and a performance space. 2087 Addison St., (510) 845-5373. (Web site)

Jupiter: Jupiter pours dozens of microbrews and books lots of jazz. A favorite UC Berkeley student hangout and an integral part of the downtown scene, Jupiter has food to go with your suds and sounds, a heated patio and plenty of room indoors, and almost never a cover charge. Special events may be about either music or beer. Music info: (510) THE-ROCK, beer info: (510) THE-TAPS. (Web site)

Lucre Lounge and Afghan Oasis: See listing in Restaurants, above.

The Marsh Berkeley: The latest addition to downtown Berkeley's theater family brings a much needed performance space to the scene. This East Bay branch of the ever-more venerable SF theater will bring some of that venue's performers across the pond, as well as provide its own original programming. 2120 Allston Way, (800) 838-3006. (Web site)

Shattuck Down Low: Go deep at the Down Low, which energetically occupies every inch of a big basement space. DJs alternate with live shows to bring the sounds of reggae, salsa and funk to the masses. Karaoke crooners come together to ruin all the classics on Tuesdays and Thursdays. 2284 Shattuck Ave., (510) 548-1159. (Web site)

Spats: Let's go to a place where no one remembers your name. No, it's not exactly Cheers, but the dark interior and array of mixed and novelty drinks are enough for settling in with coworkers or having a long talk with a close friend. "Appetizer" is a misnomer for the food served here. 1974 Shattuck Ave., (510) 841-7225.

Triple Rock: In 1986, before there were brewpubs on every corner, Triple Rock opened its doors. Modeled on classic bars, with a beautiful wood bar and a down-home atmosphere, Triple Rock serves its own and other beers. The food is substantial enough to stand up to any number of pitchers. Weekends can get pleasantly crowded. 1920 Shattuck Ave., (510) THE-BREW. (Web site)

Act 1 & 2: Part of the Landmark empire, this smallish house has been divided into two decent-sized theaters playing foreign and independent movies. The place has sort of a nice homey feel. 2128 Center at Shattuck, (510) 843-FILM. (Web site)

California: Yet another Landmark house, playing to the intellectual side of the mass-market audience. 2113 Kittredge at Shattuck, (510) 843-FILM. (Web site)

Reel: The hugest video store the world has ever known. They have everything: what you want, what your loved one wants and what the grandma next door who's a Japanese animation freak wants. If you're looking for something specific, be sure to ask the people behind the counter where it is before you start looking around or you'll wander for hours. Free organic (this is Berkeley, remember) popcorn for kidlets. 2655 Shattuck Ave., (510) 548-1118.

Shattuck: Yes indeed, Landmark DID buy all of downtown Berkeley's independent movie houses. This seven-plex shows a mix of art/independent films and big-budget Hollywood efforts. The space is a little confusing even without the pseudo-Egyptian decor, perhaps because it occupies a former department store (rest in peace, Hink's). 2230 Shattuck, (510) 843-FILM. (Web site)

United Artists Berkeley 7: A former big house, now a rabbit warren of tiny boxes. The front of the theater, which is only visible from across the street because of the enormous marquee needed to list the zillion movies playing at any one time, boasts great Art Deco figures of Artistry and Unity. 2274 Shattuck Ave., (510) 843-1487. (Web site)

- Updated by John Fall, Special to SF Gate (10/05)