Diavola in Geyserville

It's easy to see why this out-of-the-way Wine Country spot from the team at Santi - once down the street and now in Santa Rosa - has become a favorite of out-of-towners and locals alike.

From the house-cured charcuterie hanging by the bar to the wood-fired oven in plain view of the dining room, Diavola's food and ambiance are an invitation to linger along Geyserville's main drag.

The vibe: A cross between country home and cabin, with big wooden tables, dim lighting and vast expanses of brick.

The crowd: Truly a mixed bag, with the wine-tasting, tourist and local crowds all sharing the inviting space.

Best seat: Nab a seat at the long bar or cozy up to the striking brick wall - complete with windowlike cutouts - that divides the two dining spaces.

Killer app: Pizza is a must, with the Sonja ($16.25) as a standout - puddles of mascarpone topped with prosciutto and a bed of arugula. Add in a bowl of Tuscan minestrone soup ($8.75) - thick with borlotti beans, spinach, turnips and prosciutto, and there's ample food for two to share.

Signature drink: Start with an Italian aperitif, such as the bubbly Spritz with Aperol, Prosecco, Pellegrino and orange ($7.50), or a Carpano vermouth ($7.50), featuring Italian sweet vermouth and lemon.

Also on tap: Wine. Try the Peterson house red blend of Carignane Petite Syrah and Zinfandel for $6 a glass, or $14 for a half-liter.

Bonus: Gluten-free pizza dough is available on request.

Diavola: 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville. (707) 814-0111. www.diavolapizzeria.com. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. Credit cards accepted.

- Janny Hu, jhu@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G - 10 of the San Francisco Chronicle