La Playa Hotel and Cottages-by-the Sea, Carmel Bay

On our way to check into the La Playa Hotel and Cottages-by-the Sea, we happened upon a wedding in the garden. It seemed fitting, as this resort overlooking Carmel Bay began as a 1905 mansion designed by landscape painter Chris Jorgensen for his wife, artist and chocolate heiress Angela Ghirardelli. Though since expanded and modernized, this resort retains the elegance of a bygone era, with architecture inspired by the California missions, a stunning garden and an attentive, gracious staff.

Comfort zone

Our room with an ocean view meant falling asleep to the sound of the surf at nearby Carmel Beach. In the morning, while watching pelicans glide above the coast, we enjoyed a hearty, classic breakfast delivered piping hot by room service. A large window, queen bed accented with white linens, a headboard carved with a mermaid image and cushions with a tropical floral print on the twin chairs gave the room a beachy vibe.

Bath and beyond

The small but efficient bathroom featured a bathtub and shower combination. A basket on the shelf contained shampoo, bath gel and other toiletries in generous-size bottles, along with shell-shaped and glycerin soaps.

Grounds for approval

Aside from vistas of the sea, this property's other highlight is its garden. Brick stairways lead guests past lush beds brimming with flowers, a lawn area and terraces embellished with benches, fountains and a wrought iron gazebo. Those taking a dip in the heated outdoor swimming pool will find provided towels and can order food and beverages poolside.

Geared up

Free Wi-Fi, television, radio with alarm clock, mini refrigerator, hair dryer, iron and ironing board.

In the vicinity

A short walk takes you to the white sand and variegated waters of Carmel Beach. Nearby, walk along Ocean Avenue and the adjacent side streets, lined with art galleries, fashionable boutiques, jewelry stores, gift shops, bistros and restaurants. The Mission San Carlos de Borromeo de Carmelo, or Carmel Mission, is a mile away.

Good to know

Rooms offer ocean, garden and residential views. Other amenities include room service and spa treatments.

Highs and lows

We savored a superb dinner of almond sole, pork tenderloin medallions, fresh vegetables and scalloped potatoes au gratin at the Terrace Grill, which serves California cuisine with an emphasis on local seafood and Monterey County produce and features indoor and alfresco dining. While the hotel offers three wheelchair-accessible rooms, there is no elevator, and stairs throughout would make the upper floors and the grounds difficult to navigate for a person using a wheelchair.

La Playa Hotel and Cottages-by-the Sea: Eighth Avenue at Camino Real, Carmel. (831) 624-6476. www.laplayahotel.com. 73 rooms, two suites and five cottages, three wheelchair accessible, all non-smoking. Rates: $190-$775, two-night minimum on weekends. Children welcome; no pets.

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This article appeared on page G - 27 of the San Francisco Chronicle