National Hotel, Nevada City

A stay at the National Hotel in Nevada City doesn't require a bottle of bourbon and a bag of gold dust, but don't think either would hurt.

Established in 1852, this gem in the middle of town plays host to history seekers, out-of-towners and bikers alike, and one glance at the white-haired clerk behind his brass-barred desk gives the impression that he's been there since the beginning and probably seen it all.

A plaque in the parking lot attests to the excitement "it all" may have entailed, and a quick look around the lobby with its potted ferns, gilded portraits of infamous locals, and a piano that once made it around Cape Horn says this is gold country - virtues and vices included. Just ask the Ancient and Honorable Order of E Clampus Vitus.

Comfort zone

The first couple of visits to the National Hotel, though magical in their antique dresser and brass-bed glory, did nothing to prepare me for the grandeur of our most recent suite - or its carved wooden bed the size of a small lumber schooner. Past the interroom - itself well equipped with a claw-footed couch and Dr. Freud style chaise lounge - the majestic piece of furniture was granted a room of its own.

After a tour of our sitting room, balcony and Texas-size sleeping arrangement, the bathroom could've consisted of a bucket in the corner for all I cared. Toiletries - from shampoo and conditioner to toothbrushes - are available at the front desk.

Because of the maze of hallways and staircases, without kind assistance from the desk clerk we might have wound up in the pool before finding our pals down the hall. Not an entirely bad idea, though, as the courtyard and pool area are mighty appealing on a summer's day. A lovely cupola overlooking the outside area also seems like a nice spot to lounge with a glass of wine, and in colder weather the lobby's worn velvet couches are a perfect spot for a round of poker or whiskey sours.

The last time we visited, the rooms had all been outfitted with TVs, much to the detriment of the slightly tattered 1880s vibe. Still, some folks prefer them to a game of gin rummy, and having an in-room phone came in handy when we lost all cell service upon entering the premises. I think the front desk would have happily given us an iron or hair dryer had we asked.

In the vicinity

We can't resist a drink in the old-timey saloon downstairs, especially knowing the ornate wooden bar once graced the Spreckels Mansion in San Francisco. The hotel's Hoover Steak and Lobster House serves a medley of miner-on-the-town fare (steak, potatoes and the occasional lobster), but we opted for tasty Napa Burgers (caramelized onions, smoked bacon and brie cheese) down the block at Lefty's Grill (221 Broad St.; www.leftysgrill.com) followed by more libations at the Mine Shaft Saloon (222 Broad St.; www.mineshaftsaloon.com).

On a Friday night, the majority of the city's drinking population had the same idea, and between the bar across the street and the saloon below, the National was hopping. Around midnight, a knock on the door brought us a completely intoxicated gent in his early 20s looking for his lost party, but at that point we were just relieved it wasn't the clerk coming to tell us to keep it down.

Highs and lows

The ambiance is Gold Country (a little gilt, a little rough-and-tumble) and our suite was amazing - antique lamps, Victorian couches and chaise lounges, even a fireplace in the suite next door - but many of the smaller rooms can be hit or miss. Have a look before you settle in; the walls are thin, the pipes are old, and some of the beds feel like someone took a stick of dynamite to their springs, but the flocked wallpaper and brass lamps keep you from minding the sink's occasional lack of hot water.

If you don't mind using a bathroom down the hall, the best deal is one of the Continental rooms ($65), but they're a little bit of a secret and you have to ask for them by name. Advance reservations can be made by phone but may require sending in a check, and some holidays and weekends require a two-night minimum stay. The hotel offers free parking in the lot and complimentary morning coffee in the dining room. No pets allowed, just the occasional "animal."

The National Hotel, 211 Broad St., Nevada City. (530) 265-4551. www.thenationalhotel.com. 42 rooms, 30 with private baths, all nonsmoking, 7 wheelchair accessible. Rates: $81-$125.

- Mariah Gardner, 96hours@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G - 28 of the San Francisco Chronicle