6 surprising ways to make waves in Hawaii


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Keawe Adventures teaches three-prong spear-fishing at the Kahala Hotel & Resort on O'ahu, one of the few places in Hawai'i with lessons for beginners.


Some visitors never tire of the standard options for enjoying Hawaiian waters: swim, snorkel, surf or simply sunbathe on the beach. Others occasionally paddle the coast in kayaks or ride waves on outrigger canoes, while some leave the navigating (and the mai tai making) to the crew on a sightseeing cruise. But like the islands' many varieties of reef fish, ocean pastimes in Hawai'i come in many stripes.

Here are six spins on water adventures that may give you new respect for Hawaiian seas and sea life:

Take a stand: A quick way to change your perspective — and challenge your physique — is to try stand-up paddle boarding. For those who can't get the knack of traditional surfing, it's sort of like riding in a station wagon instead of on a skateboard: You lose some coolness, but you can sure go a lot farther. Using the paddle can also give you a great abs workout, as Reid Inouye's Paddle Core Fitness Program at Ala Moana Beach on O'ahu attests.

While any outfit that offers surf lessons most likely offers stand-up paddle board sessions too, beginners should avoid high-traffic surf spots (or any place with significant waves.) They should also stay clear of swimmers and snorkelers, who are more likely to be checking out underwater critters than oncoming boarders. On Kaua'i, a prime spot is relatively sheltered Kalapaki Bay, on the island's east side. There the Kaua'i Beach Boys can teach you how to tool around the green mountain-fringed waters while steering clear of the small surf break near the county park and busy Nawiliwili Harbor. Prices vary based on length of lesson and free paddle time, with cheaper group rates, but are similar to fees for standard surf lessons.

Take the plunge: Maybe you like snorkeling, but you don't scuba dive, and don't have the time to get certified. Or maybe you're just one of those people who doesn't like to get their face wet. On three of the major islands — Maui, O'ahu and Hawai'i — Atlantis Adventures allows visitors to take a really deep look at underwater life via submarine. It helps not to be claustrophobic, but the captain's comic patter and large portholes helps avoid any "Das Boot" drama as you descend 100-plus feet below the surface.

In Waikiki, choices include 48- and 68-passenger sub tours (with a shuttle from a pier at Hilton Hawaiian Village) that explore the artificial reefs created by sunken ships, an airplane and other materials. On Maui, a shuttle from Lahaina takes you to a 48-passenger sub that visits the reef formed by a replica of a 19th century ship, the Catharginian, which the company sank off of Lahaina in 2005. An 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing reef is the star of the Kona tour, which also uses a 48-passenger sub, reached by a shuttle from the Kailua-Kona pier. Online prices start at $40.50 for kids, $89 for adults. (Note: Prices in this article exclude tax.)

Go fish: Personally, I always hope that the cute fish swimming around me won't end up on my plate later that evening, but those who want to try to catch their dinner are in line with 1,500 years or so of Hawaiian culture.

All the islands have charter boats willing to help you land a big one, but the Big Island — home to the 50-year-old Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament, one of the sport's premiere events — may have some of the best results with the best rates. And one of the island's most economical charters may be aboard the Sea Wife II, a 38-foot, 18-passenger fishing boat operating out of Honokohau Harbor. A half-day charter costs $95 per angler (tackle included) or $50 per rider, in case you just want to enjoy the deep blue waters and the thrill of someone else's catch. Possible prizes include marlin, aku, ono and mahimahi — which anglers are allowed to keep.

For an even more hands-on experience, instructors from Keawe Adventures at the Kahala Hotel & Resort on O'ahu will teach you the basics of Hawaiian-style spear fishing, including local laws and safe techniques for using the three-pronged spear. Advanced students can sign up to head to deeper waters to hunt for a massive ulua (jack) or uku (deep-sea snapper.) Lessons start at $150 per person (group rate); hotel guests have priority for sign-ups.

Be mesmerized by manta rays: The island of Hawai'i is unique in offering reliable night-time viewing of manta rays from both on and off shore. Fortunately, it doesn't cost a thing to observe the giant, graceful mantas from observation points at the Sheraton Keauhou Bay or Mauna Kea Beach hotels. A manta ray expert associated with tour operator Fair Wind gives presentations every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 6 p.m. at the Sheraton's Crystal Blue Lounge, overlooking "Manta Village."

But for those who can afford it, the experience of hovering in the water above the seemingly hollow rays while they somersault towards the surface is unforgettable — especially if you've never snorkeled or swum at night before. (Scuba divers simply position themselves near the ocean floor and look up.) Several dive boats take visitors to a spot called "Manta Heaven" near the airport, but the easiest excursion may be aboard Fair Wind's Hula Kai, which offers a 5-minute ride from Keauhou Harbor to Manta Village. The night snorkel, including gear, special wetsuits, and hot and cold refreshments, costs $99 (additional fees for scuba divers.)

Set sail in an outrigger canoe: The first outrigger canoe I ever saw was the one "The Brady Bunch" kids rode on their trip to Waikiki, and it remains a popular attraction for thrill-seeking tourists. But you can also deepen your appreciation of this ancient Polynesian seacraft — and the people who traversed the vast Pacific in them — by riding on an outrigger sailing canoe.

Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Adventures, named Eco Tour Operator of the Year in 2009 by the Hawai'i Ecotourism Association, provides up to six passengers a new perspective on ocean voyaging and Maui's amazing marine life (including whales in season.) Its beautiful red-sailed Hina departs from Polo Beach in Wailea, after a short lesson on sailing canoe history, construction and navigation. Cold drinks and snorkel gear are included, and the crew takes digital pictures so you don't have to worry about your camera falling off the slim canoe. Tours are $99 per adult, $79 ages 5 to 12.

See lava by sea: I admit, I don't have the guts to do this myself, but the boat passengers who witness lava pouring into the sea definitely get a closer look than the landlubbers at the official viewing area in Kalapana on Hawai'i. When the lava is flowing, intrepid travelers with funds to spare can take either a two-hour sunrise or sunset boat tour with Lava Ocean Adventures, which may bring them within 100 yards of the fiery, steamy spectacle. The 34-foot Lava Kai holds 24 passengers; prices are $180 adults, $125 ages 6 to 17.

Jeanne Cooper is the former Chronicle Travel Editor and author of SFGate's Hawaii Insider (www.sfgate.com/blogs/hawaiiinsider), a daily blog about Hawaii travel and island culture.


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