Hawaiian music hot spots in the new Waikiki


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The stylish RumFire nightclub has undergone renovations since opening in the Sheraton Waikiki in late 2007, but the music has been consistently hot.


The commercial revitalization of Waikiki — including new hotels, shops and restaurants — often overshadows efforts to revive its Hawaiian culture as well. But in some of the most touristy places you can think of — i.e., hotels, shops and restaurants — you'll find a renewed appreciation for Hawaiian music and its many subgenres. In addition to several long-running showcases for island troubadours, these five newer venues are broadening the reach of Hawai'i's talented slack-key, ukulele and steel guitar artists, singers and composers. Don't be surprised if the table next to yours is occupied by locals, gradually being lured back by Waikiki's latest siren song.

1. International Market Place

In August, this banyan- and palm-dotted maze of vendors selling T-shirts, souvenirs and crafts surprisingly became home to a near-revolutionary dinner show, starring one of Hawai'i's most impressive young artists and exploring some of its oldest traditions. The popularly acclaimed "Return to Waikiki" stars slack-key virtuoso Makana, who inaugurated last summer's "Curators of Hawaiian Music" concert series at the renovated Royal Hawaiian with an enormously popular cocktail show riffing on the origins of the genre. Now he's back with a hot band, hula dancers and characters to tell the story of how chant and drum evolved into song — and how the ancient Polynesian culture that brought them to the islands pervades even a place like Waikiki.

Another surprise: The food's been getting good reviews from locals, too. Doors open at 6 p.m. for an evening that includes a fresh flower or kukui nut lei greeting, a welcome mai tai, cultural activities such as tiki carving, lei making and lauhala weaving, the lu'au-style dinner buffet, two drinks and the show, which wraps up at 8:15. Tickets are $75 for adults, $55 ages 4 to 11 (younger free); premium and VIP seating packages are also available. "Return to Waikiki" is currently scheduled Friday-Saturday in September and Thursday-Saturday, starting in October.

2. Hilton Hawaiian Village

It's amazing to think that three more towers have been approved in this bustling mini-city of hotel rooms and timeshare villas, but the caliber of acts you hear closer to the ground is also unexpected. Veteran pop-folk-rockers Cecilio & Kapono now have weekly individual gigs here (plus this weekend's Back in the Day blowout with other top entertainers) when they're not on tour.

Henry Kapono's 2006 Grammy-nominated album "The Wild Hawaiian," in which he celebrates his Hawaiian roots and journeys beyond then, is the basis for "The Wild Hawaiian Experience," which debuted at the resort's SuperPool stage in late May. The hourlong Saturday night show includes spoken word and performance art, taiko drumming, Chinese lion dance, fire knives, hula and, of course, lots of acoustic and electric music by Kapono and company. Doors open at 6:15 p.m. for the 7:30 show; tickets are $20, including one drink ($35 for premium seating and two drinks.) Call (808) 947-7877 for tickets or buy at the door.

Meanwhile, longtime partner Cecilio Rodriguez will resume his series of Thursday and Friday night shows at the Village's year-old Tropics Bar & Grill on Oct. 14, following the duo's California tour (which brings them to Yoshi's in San Francisco Sept. 12.) Cecilio & Kompany, as his band is billed, play from 5 to 8 p.m. at the open-air restaurant and lounge, formerly a disco and a showroom for Charo (talk about "back in the day") but recently modeled to the tune of $11 million.

3. Kani Ka Pila Grille

To find a weekly entertainment lineup as stellar as the one at this poolside restaurant at the Outrigger Reef on the Beach, which opened in March 2009, you'd have to leave Waikiki for Chai's Island Bistro in the Aloha Tower Marketplace. (Not that that's a bad thing, but Chai's gourmet Thai fusion cuisine is also a lot costlier than the Grille's family-friendly fare.)

Manager and music maven Luana Maitland makes guests feel right at home, if your home includes the slack-key artistry of Cyril Pahinui (Wednesdays), the four-part harmonies of Kaukahi (Fridays) or the contemporary Hawaiian songs of Weldon Kekauoha (Tuesdays) — just to name three regularly scheduled acts who attract a local following (watch for impromptu hula.) The attractive waterfall landscaping blocks out the view of the street from this thatched-roof oasis just off the lobby of the renovated hotel.

4. RumFire

With strategically placed firepits, a dazzling view of Diamond Head, decadent cocktails and innovative pupus, it's no wonder this chic, upscale bar at the Sheraton Waikiki quickly caught fire with Honolulu nightclubbers (heading to the nearby Level 4 dance club) as well as with visitors when it opened in late 2007. But it would be a shame to slight the musicians who've also lent their energy and youthful edge to the distinctive ambiance of RumFire, including alternative folk-rock singer-songwriter Kamuela Kahoano, rocker Johnny Helm and creative pop interpreter Ellsworth Simeona, to name a few.

As fresh as its approach was, RumFire underwent further refinements in 2009 while the surrounding area — including a new fantasy pool shared with the Royal Hawaiian, and the Sheraton's own infinity-edge pool and bar — was under construction. New chef Matt Naula has also introduced a "Bahawaiian" menu, a fusion of fiery Mexican and Pacific regional cuisine; daily specials are offered during happy hour, 4 to 6, while performers play from 5 to 8 p.m.

5. Waikiki Beach Walk

Places don't get much more commercial than a shopping strip. But the handsomely landscaped, sinuous two story block of shops and restaurants, anchored by the Embassy Suites, has actively promoted traditional Hawaiian music and dance since its first components opened in spring 2007. The hotel boasts displays on the Hawaiian Music Hall of Fame and the history of music in the islands, while the likes of young falsetto singer Raiatea Helm and seasoned performer Melveen Leed have performed in the ongoing Nā Mele No Nā Pua reconvert series on its Grand Lanai.

But it's the plaza stage that captures pedestrians' attention, whether for this summer's first annual Hawaiian Steel Guitar Festival or the weekly showcases of hula with live music by recording artist and kumu hula Blaine Kamalani Kia. The 4:30 to 6 p.m. Tuesday performances are called "Ku Ha'aheo," meaning "to cherish with pride." As people gather on the long patch of green lawn and the sweet sounds of Hawaiian music start to soften the effects of the concrete jungle nearby, it might become apparent why Waikiki is once again worthy of some cherishing, too.

Jeanne Cooper is the former Chronicle Travel Editor and author of SFGate's Hawaii Insider (www.sfgate.com/blogs/hawaiiinsider), a daily blog about Hawaii travel and island culture.


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