Beach-bound Obama: How he (and you) can enjoy Oahu on a budget


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People on the beach call out to Barack Obama as he heads back into the water while body-surfing in Honolulu last year.


It's easy to get in a rut when you go home for the holidays year after year. Before becoming president, one of Barack Obama's Christmas traditions was to head to Hawai'i, visiting his sister and maternal grandmother and catching up with old friends. Though he had the poignant task of scattering his grandmother's ashes in the warm Pacific last year, it seems President Obama will return with his family for this year's winter break. So for the former candidate of change — and other repeat travelers to O'ahu — here are a few suggestions on updating his itinerary. They're also good ways to learn more about Hawai'i while staying within a balanced budget — important to those of us who don't get presidential treatment.

ANIMAL ATTRACTIONS

Been there: Last Christmas, the president-elect took his daughters to Sea Life Park on the island's Windward Side, where they fed sea lions and watched a dolphin show, a perennial crowd-pleaser. Later in their stay, the girls and their dad checked out the Honolulu Zoo, where they had a behind-the-scenes look at three rare Sumatran tiger cubs — then only 14 weeks old.

Do that: Equally endangered are Hawaiian monk seals, two of which are on display at the Waikiki Aquarium, which also hosts 170-pound giant clams, the chameleon-like Hawaiian day octopus and thousands of colorful reef creatures. Their fragile habitats are under attack from climate change, marine debris and overfishing, so these exhibits can raise awareness of the need for greater conservation. Admission is only $2 for ages 5 to 12, $4 ages 13 to 17, $6 students and seniors, and $9 adults — and supporting members of similar institutions (including the San Francisco Zoo, the Oakland Zoo and Happy Hollow in San Jose) get half off of that, with ID.

MILITARY MANEUVERS

Been there: Barack and Michelle Obama spent part of Christmas Day 2009 visiting with the troops at the Marine Corps Base Hawai'i in Kāne'ohe, where they also made several trips to the Semper Fit health club. This is a hard act for the public to follow: While a few sites at the base are accessible to visitors, such as the Pacific War Memorial, and the base hosts public events such as summer's Bayfest and concerts, most of it is not open to civilians.

Do that: It may not be a convenient place for the president to work out, but there are 21,000 active-duty personnel and their families at Schofield Barracks in Wahiawā, home to "Tropic Lightning" — the Army's 25th Infantry Division, which has had several tours of duty in Iraq and Afghanistan. Established as a major military post in 1909, Schofield is open to the public, with a free self-guided walking tour of Schofield's historic sites and architecturally significant structures, such as the chapel commissioned by Queen Lili'uokalani. Start at the 1915 lava rock Tropic Lightning Museum, originally the post's library. The museum also offers a guide to the many exotic trees on base and exhibits of artifacts and memorabilia — including three Japanese bullets from strafing on Dec. 7, 1941, a mere two months after the 25th Infantry Division was founded.

TEE TIMES

Been there: While he admits his golf game could be better, President Obama likes to take a few swings on vacation. Last Christmas he played at the public Olomana Golf Links ($95 for 18 holes) and with friends at the private Mid-Pacific Country Club (where the public's allowed to play weekdays for $121). Like his Democratic predecessor Bill Clinton, he has also tried his hand on the lush course at Luana Hills in Maunawili Valley ($125).

Do that: The courses may be a little bit rougher — and tougher — but the price is right for visitors at the six municipal courses on O'ahu: $45 for the five 18-hole courses, $23 for twice-around the nine-hole Kahuku Golf Course. Play only nine holes, or at twilight, and you get half off of that. Given the president's predilection for staying in Kailua, he might want to try the scenic Pali Golf Course, which as its name suggests is in the hills, overlooking Kāne'ohe Bay. But if Pali's slopes prove too challenging, there's always the driving range at the Ala Wai Golf Course, close to Obama's old stomping grounds.

MEMORABLE MEALS

Been there: The grown-up Obamas and their friends indulged in one gourmet restaurant last Christmas, enjoying the Pacific Regional Cuisine at Alan Wong's in downtown Honolulu. Known for its locally sourced ingredients and inventive flair, Alan Wong's offers a four-course prix fixe holiday menu for $85 — just in case the Obamas don't want to dine on turkey and ham at their vacation rental, as they did last Dec. 25.

Do that: The Pineapple Room by Alan Wong, on the third floor of Macy's in the Ala Moana Center, is a less expensive way to experience the famed chef's cuisine, especially at lunch. Bring an appetite for the Express Lunch: a cup of the soup du jour, half a Caesar sald, a kalua pork BLT and chocolate macadamia nut brownies with vanilla ice cream, for $22. Of course, there are many cheaper places to dine (see below), but not if you want to sample the Wong way.

LOCAL FLAVOR

Been there: Thanks to breathless 24-hour reporting, we Americans know that while golfing at Olomana, our president-elect bought Spam musubi (which the New York Times thoughtfully defined for its malihini readership) for a snack. He also took his kids for shave ice at Kokonuts at the Koko Marina Center, and — in the island tradition — offered to treat the press corps to these homegrown favorites. (Apparently, and regrettably, they resisted.)

Do that: Spam musubi, widely available on convenience store counters and in mom-and-pop delis, and shave ice will not break anyone's bank. But since variety is the shoyu of life, this Christmas President Obama may want to initiate his daughters into the delights of manapua and malasadas, which reflect the contribution of other island immigrants. Honolulu Metromix recently gave high marks to the manapua — the local version of the Chinese steamed dumplings known as char siu bao, stuffed with sweet barbecued pork or bean paste — from Honolulu's U-Choice In (801 Kaheka St., in the Don Quijote Food Court).

A Portuguese-introduced doughnut, malasadas are dusted with sugar, may be filled with custard and are addictive when fresh and warm. The malasadas from Leonard's Bakery, founded in 1952 and located on Kapahulu Avenue since 1957, are a mainstay for many a sweet tooth. Agnes' Portuguese Bake Shop in Kailua, also favored by local palates, allows customers to call 15 minutes ahead for made-to-order malasadas.

Jeanne Cooper is the former Chronicle Travel Editor and author of SFGate's Hawaii Insider (www.sfgate.com/blogs/hawaiiinsider), a daily blog about Hawaii travel and island culture.


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