5 upcountry pleasures on tiny Lanai

Most visitors know the tiny island of Lāna'i as a day trip from Maui, whether by ferry or snorkel boat. And while it's true Hulupo'e Beach is a jewel in Hawai'i's crown, particularly if you spy dolphins frolicking in its waves, there's a lot more to the island than this strand, the tidy harbor at Manele Bay and the striking rock formation known as Pu'u Pehe ("Sweetheart Rock"), which divides them. Several thousand feet about the shore, Lāna'i City and environs offer inexpensive cafes and intriguing galleries, ocean views framed by Norfolk pines, and hikes through scenery as stunning as any you'll find in the islands. Even without exploring the island's other beaches (most of which require a pricey four-wheel-drive rental), there's enough to do in upcountry Lāna'i to add a night — or four — to your next itinerary. Here are some highlights:

1. Rock on: Keahiakawelo, also known as "Garden of the Gods," is the most famous of Lāna'i's inland landmarks, found on unpaved Polihua Road, about a 7-mile mountain bike ride or drive (4WD recommended) from Lāna'i City. The eerie clumpings of weathered rocks on eroded red hilltops are best viewed in late afternoon, with the deep clefts of Moloka'i rising across the Kalohi Channel. The short self-guided walk through the adjacent Kanepu'u Forest Reserve provides a bonus look at one of Hawai'i's increasingly rare dryland forests. (For more photos and the legends behind Keahiakawelo's name, click here.)

2. Take a walk in the country: While the 11-mile, one-lane Munro Trail lures intrepid Jeep drivers to spend a half-day traversing the heights of Lāna'ihale, the gentler, 5-mile Koloiki Ridge Trail makes for a brisk 2.5 hour walk through native trees, wild ginger and invasive imports such as strawberry guava to an overlook of the dramatically furrowed Maunalei Gulch — a Waimea Canyon in miniature — with views of Moloka'i, Maui and the brilliant blue waters between them. You can ask for a trail map from the concierge at the Four Seasons Lodge at Ko'ele, near the start of the trail. (Guests may also sign up for a guided hike.)

3. Go window-shopping — with whiskers: If you're allergic to cat dander, you might want to stock up on your meds before strolling "downtown" Lāna'i City, a few square blocks with Norfolk pine-fringed Dole Park at its center. That's because nearly every storefront has been adopted by at least one stray feline, and although technically feral, they're pretty friendly with visitors when not dozing in a window or doorway. You'll encounter cats at the Mike Carroll Gallery, which features the colorful island-themed paintings of the eponymous owner; the Local Gentry clothing boutique, which includes locally made jewelry and bags; and the Lāna'i Art Center, displaying the work of more than 30 local artists and artisans. Proceeds from the center help fund art workshops and other programs for residents and visitors. (For more about feral cats on Lāna'i, click here).

4. Dine with the locals: While the restaurants at the two Four Seasons Resorts on the island do their best to tempt high-end customers, the cafes and restaurants around Dole Park, as well as the island's grocery stores, serve much less expensive fare in friendly, homespun settings. Try a "local kine" breakfast or lunch at the Blue Ginger Cafe, a pick-me-up smoothie or ice cream at the Coffee Works or an Italian bistro dinner at Pele's Other Garden. Gourmands will appreciate the seasonal approach at the Lāna'i City Grille in the Hotel Lāna'i , where the menu was revamped by Maui restaurateur Bev Gannon; prices reflect the higher quality and service, but Friday diners can take advantage of a special lunch menu. (With rooms starting at $129, Hotel Lāna'i is also the least expensive official lodging option, other than camping — though multinight deals at the Four Seasons Lodge at Kō'ele are under $200 a night).

5. Savor the tranquil setting: Many who go to Hawai'i's most densely populated resort areas often wonder where they can find the unhurried serenity and low-cost pleasures of "old Hawai'i." Upcountry Lana'i is one answer, with its small-town ways: "What happens in Lana'i...everyone knows" reads a T-shirt popular with residents. A stroll past plantation cottages, brightly painted or charmingly faded, reveals a quiet way of life amid quaint architectural details. For more formal gardens, the paths around the gazebo, pool and Japanese tower at the Four Seasons Lodge at Kō'ele are also worth wandering, even if you can't afford to top it off with a cocktail by the fireplace. Watching the sunset over the Pālāwai basin and the ocean on the horizon, with horses the color of the earth grazing before you, is a perfect way to end the day.

Jeanne Cooper is the former Chronicle Travel Editor and author of SFGate's Hawaii Insider (www.sfgate.com/blogs/hawaiiinsider), a daily blog about Hawaii travel and island culture.