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Rather not hike, paddle, float or fly? You can still drive to the Kalalau overlook for sweeping views of Na Pali's razorback cliffs. Photo by Jeanne Cooper




If you're going to Kauai, you must visit at least three places: the North Shore, Waimea Canyon and Na Pali — the sky-scraping red-and-green sea cliffs and verdant valleys between them. But unlike the first two must-see sites, you can't simply drive into Na Pali (literally "the cliffs" in Hawaiian). Which way to go depends on how much time, money and effort you're willing to spend. The good news? Whatever you decide will be worth it — provided you brought a camera to record the experience. Here are the pros and cons of the five ways to navigate Na Pali.

1. By boat
From May through September, the waves favor a boat ride along Na Pali — although the big white cruise ships may pass it any time of year. For the rest of us landlubbers, a motorized catamaran or Zodiac-style raft are the two vessels of choice, with two main points of departure: West Shore and North Shore. Most boat tours leave from Port Allen on the southern end of the West Shore, near Hanapepe, sailing past sugar cane fields and the dunes of Polihale on their way to Na Pali; on the North Shore, a handful of operators are allowed to leave from Hanalei, giving them a substantial head start in getting to the photo ops.

Rigid-hull inflatable rafts (of which Zodiac is a leading brand) offer the chance to zip into sea caves and, in some cases, land on the beach at Nualolo Kai, the site of one of Na Pali's ancient Hawaiian villages. The condition of the seas and your sense of adventure will determine how smooth you find the ride. Catamarans provide more shade, more back support and more amenities like buffet lunches and restrooms; the larger models will sail year-round (using their motor most of the way). Snorkeling on morning tours is also an option; afternoon tours tend to skip that, since the waves are too choppy then.

Cons: Expect to shell out about $150 per person for catamaran rides, and at least $100 for rafts — with rates spiking higher recently due to fuel costs. If you're prone to seasickness, you'll need to have your remedy of choice ready, especially during the October-to-April season. (A number of operators simply switch to South Shore whale-watching tours then.)

Pros: Expect to feel dwarfed by the towering spires of Na Pali's sharp-edged cliffs, and enjoy the close-up views of sea caves, arches and fresh water tumbling down rock faces into the ocean. You might enjoy the companionship of a pod of dolphins along the way, while experienced snorkelers might enjoy a swim at the reef at Nualolo Kai. And the higher-priced West Shore options tend to include a continental breakfast and buffet lunch, so at least you're getting two meals for your buck — along with those awesome views.

2. By kayak
If being on a Zodiac or catamaran is just too far from the water for you, then touring Na Pali by kayak is the only way to go. Even in good conditions — generally limited to June through August — it's an arduous trek of 16 miles, putting in at Ke'e Beach on the North Shore and hauling out at Polihale Beach on the West Shore. Guided tours are recommended unless you're an extremely experienced paddler with a friend to pick you up at the end. Do-it-yourselfers will also need a permit from the state parks department if you plan to stop anywhere past Hanakapi'ai Beach (at the first Na Pali valley past Ke'e Beach) or if you plan to camp along the way (allowed only in Na Pali's Hanakapi'ai, Hanakoa, Kalalau and Miloli'i valleys.)

Cons: Even though the fuel comes from you, prices for guided tours rival those of catamarans, due to the time and logistics involved in an all-day, point-to-point operation. Guided or not, hours of ocean paddling involves backbreaking work. And don't even think about it if you tend to go green when the going gets wavy.


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