There's a reason the Polynesian Cultural Center on Oahu always notes that it's the most popular paid visitor attraction in Hawaii: It's free to visit Pearl Harbor — specifically, the USS Arizona Memorial — and about 1.5 million people do so every year. Recalling the sacrifices of Dec. 7, 1941, when the Japanese attacked the U.S. fleet, the memorial over the sunken ship where 1,177 crew members died draws about 4,500 people every day.

The Pearl Harbor experience starts by lining up at the visitor center for a free numbered ticket for one of the 30 tours a day, all of which include a 23-minute documentary film and a shuttle boat ride to the memorial. In summer, that can mean up to three hours of waiting in line — in full sun or rain — which is why tour buses try to get passengers there by 7:30 a.m., when the ticket office opens. The last program begins at 3 p.m., although the visitor center is open till 5 p.m. The wait tends to be shorter in the off-season, except for special events such as the annual commemoration on Dec. 7. (This year's ceremonies include a dedication of the new USS Oklahoma Memorial on Ford Island, where the ship that suffered the second greatest loss of life in the attack was berthed.) Operated by the National Park Service, the memorials are closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day.

Fortunately, once you have your ticket in hand, there are plenty of ways to pass the time waiting for your program. The shoreline USS Arizona Memorial Museum has memorabilia of the Arizona's crew in happier days, including photos and samples of their letters home, plus sobering displays of the instruments of war and the aftermath of the attack. In the visitor center lobby, you can rent headsets for a one-hour audio tour narrated by actor Ernest Borgnine (a Navy vet), which incorporates oral history by Pearl Harbor survivors. The bookstore has many books, videos and mementos, and profits support the interpretive programs at the memorial. There's also a snack bar. Along the water are panels with images of Pearl Harbor in 1941 to contrast with what can be seen today, a relief map of Oahu and a touching remembrance exhibit that honors those killed in the attack — both military and civilian — who were not aboard the Arizona.

The USS Bowfin Submarine Museum & Park is also near the Arizona visitor center, and is compact enough that it can be ducked into during a long wait for the Arizona tour. It's privately run, like the USS Missouri Memorial on nearby Ford Island, so both charge admission, but they're well worth a visit for history and military buffs. Viewing the USS Arizona Memorial from the Battleship Missouri, where the Japanese surrendered in 1945, also gives a unique perspective on the war.

The USS Arizona Memorial itself opened on Memorial Day 1962, and it's been a subject of fascination ever since, for Japanese and American visitors alike (even "The Brady Bunch" had to pay their respects when the sitcom came to the islands in 1972). Today's tourists aren't dressed formally, but while shorts, T-shirts and sandals are allowed, "profane" T-shirts and bathing suits are not. A few of the remaining survivors of the attack are often at the memorial, which is the final resting place of hundreds of their comrades, so a little respect is in order. After another "day of infamy" — Sept. 11, 2001 — security restrictions became very tight at Pearl Harbor, still in active military operation. You'll have to leave all bags, purses, fanny packs, camera bags, etc., in storage lockers for a small fee. But for those looking to preserve their memories of this special site, not to worry: Cameras and video cameras are still allowed.

For more information, call (808) 422-0561 or visit the National Park Service's USS Arizona Memorial page.