Sun and solitude on Kauai's uncrowded beaches

There's a reason some of Kauai's best sandy beaches are so uncrowded: They take a little more time to get to, they have fewer facilities, and water activities like swimming and snorkeling may be limited or seasonal. But if you're itching for serene sunset strolls or just some sand between your toes without the sounds of a lot of other feet, plan a day-trip to one of these five divinely untrammeled strands, listed from southwest to northeast. Just remember to play it safe by first checking out the surf report in the local newspaper or the online Kauai Ocean Report. Otherwise your only worry should be packing enough sunscreen.

1. Polihale: This 300-foot-wide, miles-long beach at the end of the road in West Kauai can be relatively easy to get to or torturous, depending on the conditions of the rugged, 5-mile dirt road that leads you from Highway 50 through old sugarcane fields to the beach. If the area has had heavy rain recently — fortunately, this is the Garden Island's drier side — the mud can sink all but the most rugged vehicles. If it's been dry, you can very slowly navigate around the many ruts until you hit the dunes, which can reach 100 feet in height. At the north end is a state park with restrooms and water (although facilities are occasionally closed for repairs, so be sure to bring your own liquids as well as food).

There's no lifeguard, and the exposed shoreline is subject to pounding surf and extremely strong currents, particularly in winter, so it's wise to simply take a long walk on the unshaded beach rather than dive in. But your rewards are still great: A white strand that stretches 15 miles between the sea cliffs of Na Pali to Kekaha; enticing views of privately owned Niihau across the channel; and soul-soothing sunsets, which cast a reddish glow over the "Forbidden Island." You'll see a few local families on weekends and holidays, and perhaps a tent or two near the northern end, but otherwise be prepared for your own private Polihale.

2. Kekaha: If the spine-jolting prospect of driving along a dirt road to Polihale doesn't appeal, you can share the same Niihau sunset views and white sands from Kekaha Beach Park — where you'll also see some of the island's most expert surfers. Sure, the town of Kekaha is right behind you, but during workdays, the unshaded beach is wide open. You also have the benefit of a lifeguard if you venture in the water (be sure to ask the lifeguard about the conditions first), a "comfort station" and other park facilities across the road. You'll have more company at sunset, which feels almost like a community celebration, than at Polihale — and then it's an easy drive to dinner and drinks at one of nearby Waimea's many restaurants.

3. Salt Pond: This state park near the quaint town of Hanapepe is another local favorite that few visitors discover, even though it's almost a mirror image of the more popular Poipu. That means on weekends and holidays, you will have plenty of company, while weekdays you might have a handful of visitors. Since it's protected by a natural rock wall in front of a reef, this is one of the best uncrowded beaches for swimming and snorkeling in calm weather (check with the lifeguard if you're not familiar with the area). There's also a shallow, kid-friendly cove protected by rocks on the right as you face the ocean. Pack a picnic to enjoy in a shaded pavilion, or drive into Hanapepe or nearby Eleele for local "grinds."

4. Kauapea ("Secret Beach"): Obviously, if it has a name, it can't be that much of a secret beach. But the limited parking at the end of a dirt road near Kilauea and the 10- to 15-minute hike down to this long white beach do discourage many visitors, as does the lack of facilities, safe swimming and lifeguards. But don't let that discourage you from exploring its dreamy vistas, from the Kilauea lighthouse to the Princeville bluffs and Mount Makana ("Bali Hai"), or just relaxing in a shady spot underneath the trees at the bottom of the cliffs. You'll find plenty of picnic provisions — and public restrooms — at Kong Lung Shopping Center in the town of Kilauea (be sure to try the Kilauea Pizza and Pau Hana Bakery). Note: The lighthouse and surrounding wildlife refuge have limited hours, so you may want to stop there first before savoring your "secret" beach.

5. Anini: Just before you get to Princeville, down a long road off Highway 56, lies this family-friendly beach park, protected by Hawaii's largest fringing reef. There's no lifeguard, but the shallow water near the shore rarely present difficulties for snorkelers and swimmers. Closer to the reef, advanced windsurfers zip through the vast lagoon, taking advantage of the prevailing winds (and steering clear of the dangerous channel where there's a gap in the reef.) Anini is a narrow beach, and close to the many tourist accommodations in Princeville, but it's so long that you can easily spread your beach towels far from any other visitors, with the bonus of pleasant shade and good shower and restroom facilities. There's also a polo field, currently unused, and plenty of grass for the little ones to stretch out their legs. For even more on-shore isolation, stop first at neighboring Kalihiwai Bay, where expert surfers vie for the best waves.