Oakland's Plum has simple designs, great flavors

The less is more philosophy is working pretty well in restaurants. Recent openings have included plenty of places with pared-down interiors and menus, and it's a trend that's gaining strength.

Plush is out; minimal is in.

That's certainly the case at Daniel Patterson's Plum in Oakland. The black walls, high ceilings and rows of wood banquettes, stools and communal tables make the restaurant look monastic at first, but that first impression turns out to be misleading.

The hard-looking benches and tables actually have a sensuous feel, like newly sanded wood. The seats are generous, and if you sit at the bar in front of the open kitchen, there's a platform for your feet so it's practically as comfortable as sitting in an easy chair.

The walls are dominated by four oversize canvases, each with 63 squares showing a plum in the center. For those obsessives like me, that's 252 images of the fruit either whole or cut in half. It sounds monotonous, yet it comes across as cohesive, just like the rest of the room.

As you look around, more design details emerge. The wood floors are sleek, and the walls are glazed a dark rusty color. I'm not one for communal tables, but they work in this situation. It illustrates that first impressions can be deceiving; the interior comes across as hard on first glance, but it's actually quite comfortable.

It's the same story with the food. It's a simple, heavily vegetable-based menu, much like Patterson's San Francisco restaurant, Coi, but the choices are more limited and prices are much more reasonable. Nothing is above $20, although the portions are a little smaller than what might be considered a main course.

As with the interior, every detail is thought out, so while the first impression may be minimalist, the finished product is lush and vibrant. You can feel the chef's passion for ingredients in the artful way he combines and serves them. Everything on the menu is organic, meats are pastured, and poultry and eggs come from small farms.

Changing chefs

Patterson has also found chefs who share his sensibilities. I say "chefs" because it's been a challenge.