San Luis Creek Lodge, San Luis Obispo

San Luis Obispo is a charmed city, a California classic that didn't sacrifice its unassuming beauty and casual lifestyle when it acquired the cachet of wine country. Trouble is, the city is so appealing that it's become surprisingly expensive to stay in anything other than a cookie-cutter motel.

San Luis Creek Lodge is the sweet spot, a captivating inn with moderate rates. Surrounded by adequate but unremarkable Super 8, Best Western and Travelodge motels, it's easy to mistake for one, but turn in the driveway and you're in a different world. Guest rooms are housed in three architecturally distinct buildings that turn your stay into a sojourn on a Southern plantation, in Tudor England or in Pasadena or Chicago during the vibrant Arts and Crafts era. It doesn't hurt that the family who runs it is efficient and kind.

Comfort zone

I'm a sucker for Arts and Crafts; it was a worldwide movement, yes, but it will always be a California classic to me. Though the inn was built in 2003 (refurbished in 2008), our suite-size king fireplace room in the Craftsman far exceeded faux detailing; the style is baked into the architecture - 9-foot ceilings, exposed wooden beams, bay windows, stone fireplace - and continues through the stained-glass lampshades, woodsy colors and seductively comfortable mission-style oak furniture. The lighting was dimmer than I usually like for reading, but even that lent historical continuity. The bed, though, was purely a product of modern obsession, with high thread counts and deep mattresses finely balanced between firmness and downiness.

Bath and beyond

Luxury hotels often put all their efforts into design and neglect practicalities such as space to unpack toiletries. This bathroom had style to burn - true-to-period cross-handle faucets, mission-style nesting tables, earth-toned tile - but it also had good lighting, an oversize shower, a generous countertop with two large wash basins and room to spare even with a full complement of Aveda Spa toiletries. A hair dryer, makeup mirror and heat lamp were provided.

Grounds for approval

There are no grounds to speak of, though each building is surrounded by trees and flowers. I did appreciate the way the three buildings, although fairly close together, were sited so guests aren't even aware of the others - views of chaparral-dotted hills filled our front window. The office building has a pleasant breakfast room and a tiny exercise room; a $10 day pass to two local fitness centers is available.

Geared up

We had a 40-inch Sony LCD HDTV with 100 satellite channels and a DVD player. No minibar, but an infinitely more useful refrigerator, microwave and coffeemaker. A two-line telephone sat on a large work desk, and laptops can connect to Wi-Fi or DSL.

In the vicinity

Downtown San Luis Obispo and its mission are a straight, five-minute shot down Monterey Street. Dozens of Central Coast wineries are within 20 to 25 minutes. Avila Beach and Pismo Beach are short hops, and San Simeon is less than an hour's drive.

Good to know

Special packages abound here. My current favorite, under "Romantic Getaway," is the Bed and Breakfast-in-Bed: two nights in an upgraded room, a bottle of local wine and breakfast delivered to your room, from $259 midweek and $329 weekends. Also check the "Upscale OnSale" link for ever-changing discounts.

Highs and lows

Coming back to our serene room after a beastly hot day and sinking into a sturdy oak lounge chair to cool off, while watching the hills change color with the sinking sun, is a simple pleasure I'll remember long after I forget the name of the wine we bought. It just seems sad not to have a perennial garden full of the native plants that the Arts and Crafts landscapers were so fond of.

San Luis Creek Lodge: 1941 Monterey St., San Luis Obispo. (805) 541-1122. www.sanluiscreeklodge.com. 25 rooms (all nonsmoking, 1 wheelchair accessible, no pets), $100-$250 low season, $150-$250 high season; AAA/AARP discount 10 percent. Specify Londonderry, Craftsman or Plantation when reserving.

- Christine Delsol, 96hours@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G - 27 of the San Francisco Chronicle