I have a Joshua Tree carbon fiber dash cover but other than that, your car should be pretty similar. 1. Remove shifter cover. For both auto and 5spd, just pop the bottom part up first and the rest will come up with it. If you have a automatic, you will need to remove the power/comfort switch by popping it out with a small flathead screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the dash while doing this. Unplug it's harness and set it aside.
	2. Remove the middle dash piece that surrounds the radio and climate control. To do this, first take out the ash tray. You will now see one of 2 lower screws - the other is just under the cigarette lighter. If you have a 89-91, there will also be 2 screws just above the climate control unit. Once the screws are out, push down at the top where this piece meets the upper dash piece just below the clock. While pushing downward on the top, pull the bottom half out and the piece should pop right out. Unplug the harnesses going to the emergency blinker and the 2 harnesses at the cigarette lighter.
3. Remove panel around steering wheel with cruise, defrost, dimmer, etc. There are 4 screws holding this on. Two on each side that can be easily seen by looking up from the underside. After these are taken out, push downward on the top and pull out. There are clips on each side that should come out. Now unplug all the harnesses. They are all different shapes so you dont have to worry about switching them when plugging them back in. A flathead screwdriver will help you push the small "button" and then pry the harness off. Also, it helps to lower the steering wheel when doing this.
	4. Remove upper dash panel that surrounds the gauges and clock. There are 9 screws total holding this piece in. Five are on the lower part which are easily seen (2 just below clock and one more on each side of the steering wheel). The other 4 are hidden in the top part and you will have to look up from underneath to see them. After this is done, you need to take the whole piece out. Lower the steering wheel if you haven't already. Pull the whole piece out (vents will come out with it). This piece is hard to get out, but if you bend it slightly in the middle, it will help get it over the steering wheel. There is one harness at the clock that you need to unplug. If you want to get to your gauges for any reason now, all you have to do is remove 4 screws (2 on top and 2 on bottom) and unplug its harnesses from the back while pulling the whole assembly out.
5. Remove the clock from the upper dash panel. It is just held in by 2 screws on the backside. I put the rest of my dash back together because I was taking the clock to my work the next day to fix so I put everything back together minus the clock.
	6. Now to fix the clock. Open up the clock by using a small flathead screwdriver to get the cover off. You should now be able to see a small phillips head screw on the lower lefthand portion of the circuit board. Remove this and then push the board gently out from the backside.
	If you dont know how to solder, find a friend who does. This isn't the most difficult soldering job, but I wouldn't recommend it to learn how to solder with. Add some flux to the backside of the board and resolder all the joints. They should be a nice shiny, clean silver when you're done with them. Some people have said that just resoldering isn't quite enough so you may want to replace the electrolytic capacitors. I would recommend resoldering and plugging it back in. If it still doesn't work, then give the capacitor replacement a shot. Thanks to DanNY for the pic below. They are the 3 large black cylinders with a white stripe going down one side. On the board, they are labeled C7 (the small one at the top), C3 (large one in middle righthand side), and C1 (large one at the bottom). Be sure to put them in the correct polarity when you replace them. There is a small - sign on the board next to each one that shows which side is negative. On the capacitor itself, there is a white stipe with - signs going up it on one side. That side is negative so match it up when you put them back in (C7 +on left -on right; C3 +on top,-on bottom; C1 +on left -on right). Look at the picture for voltage values of the capacitors. If you cant find the right voltage, just get one slightly higher. The values are C7: 1uF (one microfarad), C1: 100uF, C3: 100uF (I'm 99% sure on this but I didn't take that one out because it was a pain to get to). When you replace them, be sure to put them as far down on the board as they will go since there's not much extra room in the clock. Personally, I just replaced C1 because it had obvious corrosion around it and the others looked fine to me. You may want to just resolder the joints and plug the harness back in for a few days to test it and see whether or not you should bother replacing the caps or not. If your dash is already back together, you can plug in the clock just by pulling the harness out a little through its hole and letting the clock hang there. Maybe use some tape so it doesn't fly around when you're driving though.

First off, I have a '97 Max SE that suffered clock problems starting about a year ago - intermittent power, could usually be restored by a good thump to the dash ... The clock is a slightly different design, so the caps are different, etc. However I tried to resolder the connections to the PCB (2 boards, in this case) and when I reinstalled the clock I noticed that the power was again intermittent, seemingly a problem with the connector or the harness. On second attempt to fix it I brought it to a friend at work who is an electronics tech. He again touched up the solder connections with greater skill than mine, and we decided that some cleaning of the connector pins on the back of the clock might help. He took an exacto-type knife and scraped as much of the exposed surfaces as possible with the edge of the blade, then used a swab with isopropyl alcohol to clean up. I think the cleaning may have helped at least as much as the soldering (for now, since it seems to be working well) ... I imagine that although the pinout on the older/newer clocks might be different, it shouldn't matter.