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Malaysia thrives through 'can do' culture


Richard Ryan
Last Updated: 12:01am BST 30/11/2006

How many countries have a catchphrase? Not just an internationally recognised symbol like a Gallic shrug or the gentle affirmation of an Irish "to be sure". I mean a proper motivational catchphrase.

Well, the Malaysians do. It's not on flags or car stickers but ask a local why they're baking the world's biggest naan bread or building Asia's biggest book store and you'll be met with cries of Malaysia boleh!

Translated, the phrase means 'Malaysia can do' and they really do believe that if everyone pulls in the same direction anything can be achieved. This is a country that is fiercely proud of itself. The world may not look to Malaysia on a regular basis but Malaysia has been looking at the world and it's about to emerge from the shadows.

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In real terms, Malaysia is only a teenager of a country. It didn't break away from British rule until 1957, but has forged itself from being a jungle backwater to a real first-world contender.

Hence the obsession with breaking records. Whether it's the world's tallest flagpole, Asia's biggest mall or the astounding Petronas Towers, this is a country where the people are attempting to prove, again and again, that it's just as good as anywhere.

And, truth be known,they're not wrong. Whether you want shopping malls filled with Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton, a face-to-face encounter with an orang-utan in some of the world's oldest rainforest or a deserted tropical beach, it's all here.

For expats wishing to settle somewhere that has a sense of the mystery of Asia but with the comforts of home, Malaysia is the perfect place. The legacy of Britain's colonial past lingers in the use of three-point plugs, right-hand-drive cars, never ending football coverage and English language TV channels.

In fact, although it's not officially stated as such, on a general basis the country's first language is English. This is due to the three groups that make up the country: the Malays, the Chinese and the Indians. These three culturally distinct groups live side by side harmoniously but each speaking their own language and practising their own religions. However, to communicate between races, most people turn to English.

 
The Petronas Towers symbolise Malaysia’s desire to become a first-world contender

Admittedly, the local patois may not be quite the same as the version of the language the Queen uses; but after a few days of learning to rephrase things in a local dialect it becomes fairly easy for English-speaking westerners to make themselves understood.

For most people working in Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur is most likely to be home. KL, as it's known by locals is the only real city. Playing host to 1.4m residents KL is a great place to live. It may not have the cutting edge feeling of London or New York and its slight scruffiness around the edges may reveal its true undeveloped status, but it has everything one could need.

It boasts more designer stores than one could ever afford to utilise, restaurants that wouldn't be out of place in any chic metropolis, nightclubs graced by international DJs, cinemas showing the latest blockbusters, Tesco, Ikea and even old-fashioned pubs.

The average wage for a well educated Malaysian is RM3,000 per month (around £432), so anyone earning a western wage in Malaysia can live like a king. The rent on a luxury two-bed condo in the best part of town is unlikely to exceed RM4,500 per month and you could rent an entire house in a suburb for less.

However, the majority of expats head for an area known as Bangsar and consequently this has become like its own little city within KL. Whereas one side of KL is distinctly Asian in terms of architecture, lifestyle and standard of living, Bangsar has become the equivalent of Beverly Hills.

Ferraris vie for parking spaces outside the most popular bars while people wearing watches that cost more than most Malaysians earn in a decade make small talk about whether the new Dior collection is to their liking or not.

In a country where some of the inhabitants live a pretty meagre existence you'd imagine such affluence would be a problem, but the rich expat (or mat sallah) has become just another social group, absorbed into the culture alongside the Chinese and Indians.

In fact, Bangsar is a wonderfully friendly and inviting place. Home mostly to Brits and Australians, a night out will invariably result in friendships being formed with passing Americans, Germans and any other nationality that you care to name. It is simply a reflection of the melting pot that Malaysia has become.

Of course, the best thing about KL is that the fun doesn't stop at the city limits.

No more than an hour's flight away is Langkawi, the most common weekend destination for expats. Langkawi is made up of 101 tiny tropical islands, with accommodation mainly found on the main island. It's an unusual place in that the first time you visit you'll find yourself gasping and falling in love with new beaches at every turn. However, in truth Langkawi has really become a victory of convenience over perfection, helped in no small part by some amazing hotels like the Datai and the Four Seasons.

Yet a bit of extra flying to Malaysian islands that are slightly harder to access will leave you with memories that will last a lifetime. For pure luxury one has to consider a few days at the Pangkor Laut resort on the Peninsula's west coast, a private island with 230 rooms and home to Emerald Bay, voted by Conde Naste Traveller magazine as one of the world's top five beaches. Divers love the unspoilt Perhentian islands on the east coast and Redang offers crystal waters and white sand rivalled only by the best of French Polynesia.

If sunburn and sandy toes aren't your thing, a rattling bus journey from KL could see one absorbing the best of Malay culture in Kota Bharu. A flight to East Malaysia could be the start of a climb up Mount Kinabalu while nature fans can come face to face with everything from orang-utans to hornbills on the jungle trails and waterways of Taman Negara.

So as you stare out of the office window in KL you have the knowledge that the dream of escaping to paradise is easily achievable.

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