Insider's guide to Spain: Beyond the beaches

Better rail and domestic services mean it is now much easier to explore the far reaches of Spain. Annie Bennett finds fine culture, cuisine and landscapes at every turn.

Getting to Spain is easier and cheaper than ever, but 2008 is the year when travelling around the country will become a lot quicker with new high-speed trains and more low-cost domestic flights. The historic town of Segovia is now only a 35-minute rail journey from Madrid, which is 55 miles away, while Malaga, a distance of 340 miles, can be reached in two-and-a-half hours.

The much-awaited service from Madrid to Barcelona and France is still beset by problems, but is scheduled to start in March. The trend for stylish hotels at reasonable rates is gaining momentum in cities, in the countryside and on the coast. Online apartment rental is also becoming increasingly common in major cities, whether through an agency or direct from owners.

The increased interest in Spanish food and wine has led to the creation of a series of routes highlighting local specialities, as well as vineyards all around the country, not just the better-known areas. Tourist offices will provide information and maps.

At more mainstream resorts, tough new regulations have drastically reduced the construction of large hotels to protect the coastline and improve standards. Clubbers might be disappointed in Ibiza this summer, with the introduction of legislation to curb round-the-clock partying.

Although there will still be somewhere to go at any time of day or night, you might have to look a bit harder. It might be all about quality in Spain this year, but that doesn’t mean a little over-indulgence is out of the question.

• The dialling code for Spain is 0034

MADRID AND CENTRAL SPAIN

In Madrid, the much-vaunted extension to the Prado museum finally opened in late 2007, leading to a leap in visitor numbers. Nearby, the Reina Sofia museum opens a major exhibition of 400 works by Picasso from the Musée Picasso in Paris on February 6, while Modigliani and his Time starts at the Thyssen-Bornemisza on February 5.

Caixaforum, a new contemporary art centre designed by Herzog&de Meuron, is also scheduled to open next month on the same stretch.

Stay a short walk away at the newly opened five-star Hospes Madrid (914 322911; www.hospes.com), in a converted late 19th-century building. Doubles start at around £140, but the duplex rooms with attic sleeping areas under the eaves are the most coveted.

In 2008, the city is commemorating the 200th anniversary of the Peninsular War, when the people of Madrid rose up against the invading French army. There will be exhibitions and special events in May at the key battle locations at the Royal Palace, the Puerta del Sol and in the Malasaña neighbourhood.

Stay nearby at one of four Room Mate hotels, which offer avantgarde design at reasonable prices. The latest to open is Room Mate Oscar (917 011173; www.room-matehotels.com) in the hip Chueca quarter, where doubles start at around £70, including breakfast. North of Madrid, follow the wine route through the prestigious Ribera del Duero region (www.riberadelduero. es), from Soria to Valladolid, staying at paradors along the way and stopping off at wineries.

Three nights’ half board at the paradors in Soria, Lerma and Tordesillas costs £150 per person sharing a double room, or £247 for a single room. Reservations through Keytel (020 7616 0300; www.keytel.co.uk).

Parts of Extremadura, in south-west Spain, belonged to the former Roman province of Lusitania, the capital of which was Merida, one of the best-preserved Roman cities in Europe, with an amphitheatre and circus among the extensive remains.

Explore the area with the archaeological experts Andante Travels (01722 713800; www.andantetravels. co.uk). The eight-day tour starts on March 31 and costs £1,550, including flights, accommodation, all meals and lectures. The Valle del Jerte (www.valledeljerte.com) in the north of Extremadura is exceptionally pretty in spring when the cherry trees start to blossom. Ideal for walking and trying the local cuisine.

Or just stay at the cherrytastic Túnel de Hada (902 103892; www.tuneldelhada.com), a boutique spa hotel overlooking the valley, near the pretty village of Jerte. Book the Cherry Therapy package, which includes a cherry-oil massage among other delights, for £185 per person for two nights, including breakfast and one dinner.