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Bottom
End, Clutch, Primary Gears
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Bottom
End
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Remove
the cylinder base gasket
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Remove
the allen head bolts located on the waterpump, Reinstall
the bolts after you remove the water pump (see red arrows).
Inspect the plastic gear for any problems
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Loosen
all the 8mm bolts holding the clutch cover on the motor.
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Remove
the clutch cover and set aside (mine came off pretty
easy but it may need a little tap)
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Inspect
No matter how
long you let the oil drain for your still gonna have alot
in the motor, my oil is not black from not being changed
its dark blue, I use synthetic silkolene.
In the picture
to the right check out the little speck near the arrow,
yulp that's one of the three dogs from my 4th gear wheel.
(Which mates to and engages 2nd gear) its about to jam
up the oil pump gear, so I am glad I stopped when I did
(it locked up anyhow or I would have rode it out of the
woods instead of getting towed)
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Rollover image
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The
Clutch
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Locate
and remove the five 10mm bolts holding the clutch together.
Loosen them in a start pattern a few turns at a time
until all tension is released them remove the bolts
and the springs.
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With
2 hands grab the entire clutch pack and pull it out
of then clutch basket toward you. (See picture to the
left, the basket remains attached - its bolted into
the shaft) Set the clutch pack aside trying not to mess
up the order of things
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In
the center of the basket is a large nut with a lockwasher
bent up around it, similar to the washer used on the
sprocket, bend the washer back down flat
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Remove
the large nut, an air impact gun will remove this pretty
easy, if you don't have one you will need an extra set
of hands to hold the basket, also keep in mind the crank
may move when you are doing this step so insure the
timing chain will not bind and get kinked or break.
With an impact gun the inertia of the internal parts
takes care of keeping things from moving.
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Remove
the lockwasher and pull the clutch boss (center piece
of clutch housing or "basket")
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Locate
the thrust washers, and wiggle it over the shaft splines
to remove it
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Now
remove the clutch "basket" and inspect for
abnormal wear, look for grooves on the inside of the
"fingers" that would make clutch action "notchy"
also inspect the plastic gear on the back to make sure
no teeth are missing
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Set
all the clutch parts to the side where they wont get
disturbed.
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Behind
the Clutch
- Pull the
shift rod out toward you and set it aside (yellow
arrow)
- Remove
the "shift guide" which is exposed after
removing the shift rod (see the two 10mm bolts to
the right of the shiftrod, they hold the "shift
guide" on. Remove them, remove the guide then
replace the bolts in the case.
- Carefully
pull the "shift head" (see the white arrow
- Yamaha calls it the shift lever for some reason)
from the end of the shift drum (roll over the image
to the right to see it) use 2 fingers to keep the
spring loaded metal pieces from flying and set aside
(look for the red arrows on the rollover picture)
be careful not to loose the bushing on the "shift
head"
- Look inside
where the shifthead just was, you will see a 12mm
bolt, remove it and the rest of the shifthead will
come out (the shiftdrum may turn a couple clicks before
it stops and you are able to loosen the nut)
- Put the
shifthead back into the part you just removed to keep
the small pieces from getting lost and set it aside
- Remove
the circlips off of the shafts for the engine speed
sensor and the oil pump gear (red arrows) Remove the
gears and set aside
- Remove
the 3 allenhead bolts holding the oil pump in the
case, remove the oil pump (the pump is behind the
bottom red arrow, be careful not to loose the 2 O-ring
behind the oil pump) then replace the allen bolts
into the case.
- Flatten
the lock washers on the counterbalancer drive gear
and the crank gear (green arrow)
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Rollover Image
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