Interview with Kim Jae-soo
Agricultural Counselor, Korean Embassy to the United States

How one views a country and its people may hinge on his or her appraisal of the country's cuisine. With this in his mind, Kim Jae-soo, the agriculture-forestry ministry's agricultural counselor dispatched to the Korean embassy in the U.S., published the book titled "Korean Cuisine On the Table Across the World." Regarding the U.S. a "salad bowl" made up of some 180 ethnic groups and their cuisines, he considers satisfying their palate tantamount to drawing the taste of the entire global community.

In an e-mail interview with Korea Plus (KP), a Korean government-published magazine, he stressed the importance of globalizing Korean cuisine, while illustrating how it is rated in the U.S.

KP: What motivated you to focus on globalizing Korean cuisine?

Kim: I've always been interested in it. First, having been concerned for over 30 years about Korea's agricultural problems, I have a conviction that advancing the foodstuff industry will lead to their resolution. Produce can turn into a high-added-value creator through well-controlled processing.

Second, since many fail to recognize or downplay the nutritional value of Korean fare, I saw a need for proper promotion. I've always found it nationally significant to consolidate Korean cuisine as a valuable part of Korea's cultural asset.

Lastly, Korean food should be internationalized to keep pace with ongoing, full-fledged liberalization across the world.

KP: What's the significance of Korean food catering to the global palate?

Kim: For starters, it will promote Korea and its people in the global arena. In my opinion, the Korean people are not treated overseas on a par with their world's 12th-largest economic standing. It can be largely attributed to the relatively small number of globally publicized cultural assets.

In terms of its cultural value, Korea's traditional food compares well with its World Heritages -- like Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto in the historic city of Gyeongju, the Tripitaka Koreana (the most complete and oldest collection of Buddhist texts), and Hangeul (the Korean alphabet), among others like Gyeongbokgung (the royal palace of the Korea's last dynasty).

With full appreciation for the value of national cuisine, Korea should seek its globalization by turning it into top-end cultural merchandise. Simply put, pulling global taste toward Korean cuisine will do more for Korea and its culture than winning a World Cup match.

KP: How is Korean cuisine rated in the U.S.?

Kim: With the U.S. consumers increasingly becoming environment- and health-conscious, they are starting to note the true value of Korean food as natural, fermented, healthy food that aids physical well-being.

Some media coverage of Korean food introduced kimchi as a healthy food that efficaciously prevents and fights SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome) and avian flu. They also lauded green tea, a common Korean beverage, as a "super food" effective in preventing ailments, maintaining health and losing weight.

Shedding light on Korean cuisine's cultural aspect, the New York Times on May 4, 2005 acclaimed Korean barbecue like bulgogi and galbi, saying that the dishes delighted four out of the five senses, namely, sight, smell, taste and feeling. Yet, in terms of its popular recognition in the U.S., Korean food still lingers below those enjoyed by China, Japan, Thailand and Vietnam.

KP: What improvements should be made in Korean food culture?

Kim: I understand that extensive discussions are underway regarding technical innovations involving Korean cuisine, -- including localization, fusioning and standardization of recipes. I want to emphasize that Korea's culinary art will benefit from cultural, entertaining spices.

In addition, dining culture calls for improvements in dining space and etiquette. Korea's dining culture strictly observed by our ancestors has been phased out over the last several decades. During the post-colonial, economically difficult times, Koreans picked up a habit of eating fast to alleviate their hunger. Now much better-off than then, we should shake off this habit, sitting back and relishing culinary delights while enjoying conversation with others during meals.

KP: What are some successful cases of Korean-food globalization?

Kim: Preempting the kimchi market with the first-ever vacuum-packed kimchi in 1987, Chongga Kimchi, now a producer of quality and functional kimchi, still leads the efforts aimed at boosting kimchi's brand power. It has also put in place proactive marketing strategies such as factory tours.

Then there's the case of Woo Rae Oak: The Korean restaurant chain has successfully expanded operations to major U.S. cities and boasts original Korean delicacies coupled with hotel-grade service, modern interior door, various genres of music, fine china, and a local wait staff.

Pulmuone, whose flagship product is tofu, has succeeded in churning out chemical-free, health food, while CJ initiated commercializing cooked rice with its "Haetban" (freshly cooked rice).

KP: What are the most pending issues that need tackling at this point?

Kim: Japan's Ajinomoto, a foodstuff firm, is tapping the global market with Korea's representative dish, bibimbap, while trying to commercialize other Korean dishes like galbi and bulgogi. With an increasing number of multinational foodstuff companies regarding Korean food as a promising added-value creator, we must preemptively launch merchandized Korean foodstuff in the international market.

During the 5th Busan Korean Business Convention slated for the end of October, the Hansang (Korean business) Specialized Seminar will be held to form a network of Korean foodstuff businesses operating overseas and at home and to discuss a wide range of ways to further advance the Korean-food industry.