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8/30/2004
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Korea Life Blog - JongnoGuru Weekend
I hung out this weekend with my friend known in certain prestigious circles as JongnoGuru. He has two homes in Pyeong Chan Dong, a nice suburban area which is right next to Gwang Hwa Mun, just 5-10 minutes by automobile.
Though the bigger of his two homes was an investment and needs some work, the one he lives in now is very nice. I did a poor job photographing the house itself. I'm not sure he would want his house posted all over my sight anyway and he can do that later when he gets his own site up and going. Instead, I took some decent shots of the scenery and the surrounding area. Unfortunately it wasn't a sunny day and my batteries were almost dying, but take a look anyway:
These photos were taken from JongnoGuru's roof. The pictures don't really do the scenery justice. Sure, it still looks nice, but it must look even better on a sunny autumn day.
Yes, some people in Korea still live in houses. With a few exceptions, most people in this area live in them. From what JongnoGuru tells me and Julie as well, some of the richest people in Korea live here including Korean movie stars and foreign diplomats.
You may recognize these mountains behind his place. You can see them from Gwang Hwa Mun. JongnoGuru said Pyeong Chang Dong is the path the North Koreans took during the failed assassination of South Korean President, Park Chun Hee, in 1968. The "Blue House" - Korea's White House is located just over the hills on the other side of The "JongnoGuru House." The 30 NKA army men infiltrated the border (guarded by the US) and made there way through the forested mountains and then were spotted by a woodcutter, whom incredibly was let go. South Korean security forces were alerted and the unit was stopped not far from Park's house. In all, 28 North Koreans were killed, 2 escaped and one was captured alive. In case you don't know, that's the assassination attempt that led to a counter plan to kill Kim Il Sung which became the focus of the movie Silmido. Of course, the attempt was never carried out.
JongnoGuru is the only person I've ever met in Korea who owns a yard, though others do in this area as well. His neighbors used to have a yard but they built an addition to the house to get rid of it. I have a lot of respect for Jognroguru. He's worked very hard to make it to where he is and in a few more years he will control a vast and mighty empire. Perhaps even run for office here. (Click on the photo to supersize this charming photo.)
Not the best shot of me here but I'll leave it in anyway to give you an idea of the magnificent scenery in the area.
He's pointing to this bunch of temples in the distance. As I said, beyond them is the Blue House so there's a lot of armed guards in the hills back there. Lately they haven't had much action, but not long ago a wild boar was on the loose and the guards chased it down and shot it to death. I wasn't surprised so much that they shot it, more by the fact there was a wild animal still around in the first place. Hard to believe this was a land of wild tigers at one time. Now there's very little wildlife left in the country beyond birds and squirrels.
Korean roofs are usually flat like this and they make a great place to hang out. You could have a nice barbecue up here, but after a few drinks you'd better take it downstairs. Not to safe with no railing.
Later we had pizza and sat out on the open patio, drank a few cold beers, talked a lot and looked at this nice scenery. It got to late to take the last subway home so the guru and his girlfriend suggested I stay there, which I did.
The next day JongnoGuru got out the spare *scooter for me (what a nice guy to keep one on hand for his guests!) and we zipped through the hills all day passing by all the rich people's homes. We didn't stop often and my batteries were pretty much gone by this time but it was a great time. This is a shot from a temple atop one of the hills. If you look very closely up to the right, almost directly under the mountain peak, you can see a house which JongnoGuru calls the "Jules Verne" house as it looks like some kind of deep see vessel. We took a ride over there and the house is obviously expensive but gaudy and to me, an eye-sore. In the driveway: a BMW, Mercedes, Lexus SUV, and an Audi, all shiny and brand new. Also a couple of big dogs to scare people away.
*I just thought of something and I should have gotten a picture...I wonder if people who have never been here are imaging us riding through the hills on a scooter like this. (click) Well, in Korea a scooter, or auto bike as they sometimes call them, looks like this (click).
Just one of many temples hidden away in the hills around Pyeong Chan Dong. This was the last stop. There was a free spring water tap here and a mean looking ajushi greedily filled at least 10 large bottles and then a huge plastic barrel.
Well, that's it for now. I had a great time and will be going back soon with Julie. I can't wait to get her on one of the scooters. Thanks JongnoGuru!
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written by shawn matthews
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8/29/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Thanks Everyone
Wow, I'm truly thankful for all of the comments of condolence for Aunt Izzy's departure. I read every comment and was touched and appreciative. Only one heckler!
I spent the last few days with “JongnoGuru”, an occasional poster on Dave’s ESL Café who owns a house (or two) in Pyongchang-dong nearby Gwang Hwa Mun, in northern Seoul. It's a surprisingly unique suburban type "dong" (town) with actual houses and very few apartments, lots of temples and nature and right next to the heart of the city. Lot of comfortable people nestled in the area. Today we spent the afternoon on motor scooters zipping through the hills and viewing the sites.
I took loads of pics, but I haven't checked them over yet. I just got back and probably won't make the update until tomorrow, but I wanted to stop and thank everyone here for all the nice comments of sympathy. It's hard to feel too badly because Aunt Izzy lived to be 89 and had such a warm and charming personality and positive outlook on life. I don't want to remember her as someone I should have written more. She was in my thoughts every day and always will be. I have wonderful memories and am thankful for those.
Just a quick thank you to Joel for this plug for my book. A bunch of other bloggers have mentioned it as well, some of which I added to my links section. It's getting harder and harder to keep up with everybody nowadays. I remember way back when there was only a couple of us, now with the ease of setting up and maintaining a blog getting easier and easier, there's a flood washing over the net. I'm lucky to have such a great group of fans and regular readers. See you soon.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/28/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Isabelle Gardiner
It would be a lie to say I wasn't a selfish person the first time in ages I went to visit my aunt Isabelle. She lived an hour's drive from my apartment when I went to SUNY Oswego in NY. She was related to my grandmother in some vague way, and though we weren't blood related she was always called "Aunt Izzy." I always knew she was close but I didn't go see her.
My girlfriend had just dumped me and I was down in the dumps. I was hopelessly depressed. I didn't want to be around pretty much anyone. During that miserable period of my life, somehow I remembered Isabelle. One day, at my wit's end, I simply got in my car and went to visit her. She lived in an old rundown trailer in the country across the street from a beautiful apple orchard:
She was overjoyed by my arrival. I still remember it. She was writing a check for $10 in response to a "sweepstakes"...one of those letters that prey on the elderly and anyone else with the suggestion they may make it rich. This letter was worded carefully so that she was sure she'd win if she sent the money. Money she could use to make everyone happy. And $10 to Isabelle was by no means a small sum. For years she had sent me a Christmas card with a one dollar bill stuffed inside. Same on my birthday. Always these cards included a hand written letter about the weather and about her latest ailments.
At that time she was around 85 or so. She had very little. Her husband died from emphysema at the young age of 45. He smoked liked a chimney, as Mom remembered. Isabelle stayed faithful to him after he died. She told me how a young man used to come visit her with flowers. She'd let him sit on the sofa until he got bored and then we would just leave. Eventually he gave up, she said. "And I was glad!"
She lived on Social Security and other social benefits us Americas are lucky enough to have. She had a nurses aid who checked in every week to clean, pick up groceries, and even do her hair.
Though she didn't have much, what she had was enough for her. She always had plenty of food on hand, usually sandwich meats and a ton of fresh fruits and vegetables. Especially potatoes. She loved boiled potatoes so much. With lots of butter. She loved all foods. Eating was her favorite hobby. And she insisted on preparing my lunch while I relaxed in front of the TV. I let her cook for me, though it was a struggle for her to get around, because it made her feel so good and important. I washed all the dishes.
We would sit and talk for hours. She had quite a sense of humor and I could make little jokes about her weight or about anything and it would get her rolling. She made me laugh too. She was amazingly with it for her age.
That first time I visited her, I could barely think straight - I was so caught up in my heartache. But I felt peaceful with Isabelle, just laying there in her small trailer and relaxing. From that time on, I visited her several times a week. When the hurt wore off from my relationship, I still visited her. Isabelle, an 85 year old woman, became my best friend. For over a year we spent a lot of time together. We went out to a nice dinner on my birthday and had delicious steaks and she insisted on paying, which almost made me cry knowing how much money that was for her. I used to drive her to the graveyard so she could talk to her husband and leave fresh flowers. Sometimes I'd just drive her around the countryside. It wasn't easy for her to get in and out of my compact Honda, but I helped her and she enjoyed it so much. There weren't many people in her life anymore, except a kind neighbor that checked in on her once in awhile. I realized she was lonely when I looked at her notebooks. She kept a journal for the past ten years. Every entry was pretty much the same: "I woke up at 11 and had a tomato sandwich. Sunny day. Ate a nice dinner - ham and boiled potatoes. Jean came by for a short time and watched TV. I went to bed at 12 AM."
She cherished the fact she was independent. But when she fell down one day and couldn't get off the floor and was stuck until someday came by, her remaining few friends convinced her that was enough. She had to go to a nursing home. She was allowed to take just a few things - a sad affair for her as she was a child of the Depression and never threw anything away.
She was also very sad when I told her I was going to Korea, but also she was glad for me. I felt guilty to leave her. I promised to write her letters all the while, a promise that I never kept. In a day and age when we're so used to simply getting online and writing an e-mail, writing by hand has become a rarity. I wrote her maybe three times. I have no excuse.
The last time I went home, I broke my arm and ended up staying for quite awhile. When I was able to drive again, I started to visit her in the nursing home, a rather dull and depressing place. A scary place. A prison. The last time I saw her was Easter of 2003. She was so happy to hear I would come. I was the only person who did.
She shared a room with a dying woman. Her life's possessions had dwindled down to a small collection of letters and a few photos. She had just a bed and a small TV. But she was ever cheerful. I remember how hard I laughed when she told me how one of her dresses went missing and a few weeks later she wheeled down the hall and passed another old lady wearing her dress. And the woman denied it, even though it had Izzy's initials embroidered in the collar! She never did get the dress back and she even thought about a lawsuit for $15. At first I thought she was serious, until she winked at me.
Isabelle died this morning. She was 89 years old. Her heart simply stopped beating and it was very peaceful. I feel guilty for not keeping in touch more. But I'm also very happy for her. She lived a long, simple life and was very happy with so little. She was the most heartwarming person I've ever met. I love her.
This is Isabelle Gardener, the kindest and gentlest person you could ever know. The smiley pin on her sweet dress speaks volumes about her charming personality.
We were together in this photo on Easter of 2003. We had a wonderful afternoon and I was sad to say goodbye. It was the last time I ever saw or spoke to her. I miss her so much and wish I could have spent more time with her.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/27/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Ads Every Day Ads!
No matter how many advertisement ads I take off my door, there's always two or three more by the end of the day, and usually from the same places. We must have hundreds of these already, though I usually throw them out. I used to throw all of them away before I moved in with Julie. Now we keep some and order once a pizza one a month if that. It's really annoying and shouldn't this be illegal? The worst is when they put an actual sticker on your door that you can't get off without a lot of effort. If I were Korean I'd call up and raise a fit, but I rarely see anyone complain...I guess it's just part of life here.
Here's what's on my door just hours after I threw several away. How many damn restaurants can there be around here? Competition is cut throat.
Look at this ad for fried chicken. They're even advertising draft beer delivery...actually, wait. That's pretty cool...maybe I'll keep this one.
Not only this, but at least twice a week somebody bangs on my door trying to sell a fan. Now I keep my door open most of the time and the fan is in clear view, but still they run up and down ringing the door bells and banging, including mine. Sometimes it's early and I'm asleep. So I'll go to the door in nothing but boxer shorts and my hair's standing up and I'll start speaking English really fast. They usually say "Ashii," (in English that means something like, "ahh, damn"...) and head to the next door. Sometimes they continue the sale in Korean.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/26/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Steak and a DVD Player
Yesterday was a really nice day. I sold several copies of my book, received a donation, got a bunch of nice e-mails, and several astounding comments about how I inspired people to come teach in Korea. I must say, I am really thankful for all the feedback I get. Thanks everyone.
Then Julie and I decided to have a nice dinner. I haven't had a steak in over a year so we decided on TGIF down the street. Most of these pics speak for themselves and need little commentary. Here's what I got:
This is the "Surf n' Turf." The steak is a NYS (my home state) strip. I thought "turf" usually means lobster, but these shrimp were pretty damn good. The whole meal was great, but then again I was starving and haven't had a meal like this in so long. I never go to these chains in America because I dislike the homegenization of restaurants and try to support local diners and small places. Not to mention the food is overpriced. This meal wasn't too bad. 32,000 won (like 26$) which included soup, salad, bread, and cola. The only thing that was disappointing was the potato itself. Tasted pre-processed.
Julie got the London Broil set for around 28,000. She loved it.
Nice shot here of the salad. No fruit! Excellent blue cheese dressing.
Broccoli and cheese soup. Small but good.
Mostly everything including the restaurant is identical to back home. But here's something you won't see there...kimchi and sweet pickles.
A not-so-great photo of the menu, but you get the idea...
Another menu shot. This is what you see when you sit at the table.
Julie snuck this picture of me. I was so hungry and everything looked great.
Here's Julie avoiding the camera as usual. She looks thrilled that I have to document everything we do together. Well...almost everything.
I swear I look like a different dumbass in every photo. Are you one of those people too? This does not look like me. Or...does it?...scary! Julie cut my hair, by the way. Not bad for free. I'm terrified of Korean shops ever since the last time I walked out almost bald. And you know with my forehead that's not pretty.
The meal ended up around 50,000 won ($45) total, no tipping :D We saved 20% with Julie's KTF phone benefits. The places was jammed pack and it was only a Wednesday. It won't be long before Koreans are as fat as us Americans. I ate a ton of butter, cheese, sour cream, etc.
Later we stopped at Walmart. I can't believe I'm plugging Walmart and TGIF. However, this was a pretty sweet deal for 89,000 won (About $85).
Korean electronics come with batteries and cables. I forgot if they do back in the states. I just remember buying something and cursing because I need to go back out for a cable or whatever, but I can't remember what it was....(getting old).
Here we are, the greatest movie ever made. Rocky 1. The only Rocky movie in my opinion. I can watch this once a week and I never tire of it and usually I have wet eyes at the end every time. What a symbolic story of personal triumph.
Here's our set up so far. I almost laughed when Julie got our satellite TV installation bill: 2,500 won (less than 2 bucks!). We get buckets of channels for about 15 dollars/month. When nothing's on, usually on the weekends or late at night, we can watch Rocky, Sanford and Son, Slingblade, Cast Away, and other favorites I have now. Somehow, I'm not sure Julie will like Sanford and Son.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/25/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Dinner
I guess we're going to Outback after all tonight so check this post later. I'm bringing my camera. Are you hanging on the edge of your seat?
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written by shawn matthews
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Korea Life Blog - Waiting Around
Sent off a bunch of resumes and talked to some recruiters yesterday. They're pretty much all the same:
Shawn: Hi, I'm looking for a job.
Recruiter: Oh, sure! We have lots of jobs. Can we meet you tonight?
Shawn: Just a minute. Where are the jobs? What's are they like?
Recruiter: What?
Shawn: I have my own apartment. Do you have anything in Bucheon City?
Recruiter: That's OK, we get you housing money.
Shawn: But do you have anything in my area?
Recruiter: Um, maybe...
Shawn: I'll send you my resume on e-mail.
Recruiter: OK. We call you back.
They don't even want to know anything about you. They want you to travel to go meet them somewhere then offer some crummy job on the other side of the city and collect their 1,000,000 won($850)fee from the hagwon.
Now that my book is done, I have nothing to do except wait for recruiters to call and send out more resumes. I haven't seen many job ads anywhere near my home lately. Looks like I'll have to do some travelling to work. Sometimes I miss the ease of working in Nowhere-dong, 3-4 classes/day and right across the street. However, I don't miss that awful town though.
In the meantime, I've been reading book after book. I just finished Fast Food Nation, by Eric Schlosser, and vow never to eat at a fast food chain again. Now I'm halfway through John Grisham's The Rainmaker. I saw the movie awhile ago and really enjoyed it. I'm not much into fiction these days but they carried it across the street at the bookstore so I picked up a copy for around 10,000 won. As per usual, the book is much better than the movie. What I hate about reading a book after seeing the movie is you imagine the actors instead of the character's in the writing. I keep picturing Matt Damon and Danny Devito running all around Memphis.
Another thing I've been doing: crossword puzzles. They really help to improve your vocabulary and when you have your own book you can cheat if you get stuck. They also pass a lot of time, especially on a long trip.
And then I stand here in front of the window waiting for Julie to come back and looking at the scenery:
Tonight we're going to eat a nice dinner together somewhere. Maybe more saeng galbi or perhaps even a nice steak/lobster dinner at Outback. I don't particularly like that place but I haven't had a steak or a real burger for that matter in a year and a half and she's got a discount card through her phone company.
I'll try to post the pictures later or early tomorrow.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/24/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Korea Life Blog Shares
Every once in awhile I check my referrer log. Today I found an interesting link:
Blog Shares
Seems my blog shares are fairly competitive in Korea...
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written by shawn matthews
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8/23/2004
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Korea Life Blog - E-Sam Job Offer Rejection Letter
After talking it over with Julie, we decided that the E-Sam agency is not reliable and that I'd be taking a serious risk working for such an inexperienced outfit and experimental program. It didn't occur to me until the last meeting that this operation is basically a startup business by a couple of Korean guys and an Australian ex-hagwon teacher. I wish I had a scanner so that I could post the lengthy contract here. There were a couple of things I almost missed that when I saw made me hit my hand on my head. My favorite clause, in addition to the 200,000 won security deduction each month (that would leave the salary as low as 1.6) for housing had I required place, was the last one:
11. Termination of contract
This agreement can be immediately terminated by the employer [E-sam Agency] if there is sufficient evidence that the teacher has defaulted on the obligations [and there's a ton of them] as specified in this agreement. In the case of receiving two warning notices for neglecting his/her duties or if the teacher is unable to perform his duties [God forbid I get the flu!] the contract shall be terminated. In this situation the employer has no obligation to provide the cost of the return ticket to the teacher [that's fine, unless you're in your 11th month] OR THE SALARY FOR THAT MONTH.[my caps, WTF????] The teacher will be discharged at once WITHOUT ANY PRIOR NOTICE [my caps, again, WTF???]. Not only this, but section d of the same clause:
In case of termination before the completion of one year [in other words, even during the very last month] the salary for that month will not be given [I can't believe they're even printing that again] and [now get this] he/she is to give the employer the equivalent of a one-way airfare [that they don't even offer up front to anyone, so I don't get it - what? are they going to use the ticket to flee to Sydney with all the teachers' unpaid monies?], expenses (recruiting and visa) and should give one month notice prior to the termination date.[Um, yeah, OK, I'll give you a month's notice so you can take all my money for that month and make me give you even more in hopes that you will write me a "release letter."]
Here's what I wrote to them today:
Hello,
I want to thank you for your time, but after careful
consideration, I decided against taking either job.
(they had offered two, both well over an hour from where I live)
There are several reasons for this, but it basically
comes down to the fact that you require excessive
responsibility for an insulting salary. Also there is
not a chance in hell I would sign that contract the
way it is written now. Two warnings for any reason and
"the employer has no obligation to provide the salary
for that month." Among other dubious clauses that one
takes the cake.
A five day unpaid orientation and a probationary
period that can lead to even lower pay and a weekly
meeting at the head office on Saturday and on and on...
I don't know what you are thinking, honestly. You'd be
better off taking people with no experience right off
the plane so you can take advantage of them.
Shawn Matthews
I don't know why the government trusts these shady inexperienced startups to handle the foreign teacher programs. I tell you, it looks like this new program is not going to be any better than the last one. See this article.
It's back to the drawing board today. The main problem I have, OK-besides being picky because I have a brain and know when something is fishy and not just taking any job and thereby perpetuating bad deals, is that I have my own place and the area I live in. We decided to live here because it's very nice and inexpensive and not too far from Julie's job. However, it's pretty far from most parts of Seoul where the bulk of jobs have been advertised. While there's a lot of hagwons right around the corner, I don't know how to get a job at one without just going to them. Usually the schools don't expect that, as I found out when I tried that before, and they already have teachers or they use a recruiter. I guess maybe I'll have to use one as well this time and I'm waiting for a couple to get back to me. There's no immediate hurry. My visa is good until late October.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/22/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Haircut
The beautiful cocker spaniel has gotten a complete shaving. Poor little guy. Apparently they cut the hair because he was too hot. Ironically the weather has been cool since his haircut and now he's just bald and ugly.
I was lying down and just wearing boxers before a shower. I had the door open and was on the phone when the dog ran in like this, jumped on me, freaked me out as I didn't recognize him, then stole my wallet and ran down the hallway. I had to hang up and quickly get dressed and retrieve the wallet from the owner. It was pretty funny.
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written by shawn matthews
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Korea Life Blog - David Romance
David Romance, who made a donation to my blog a ways back from Canada (see here, came to Korea to visit his friend and then gave me a call. He's 26 and studying for his MBA back in Toronto and is visiting Korea for a few weeks, then a week in Thailand and another in Tokyo. He wanted some chicken and beer so Julie and I took him to our favorite place near Songnae Station.
Here we are enjoying our huge glasses of beer. The chicken was really good too.
Afterward we took David for his first experience at a DVD bang and he wonders, as do I, why such a concept isn't spreading like a wildfire in our culture. Some have argues that'd be illegal, but I don't see how since you're technically renting the movie...they "bang" is just presenting a comfortable and private place to view the rental. We decided to watch a Korean movie called "Old Boy" which had gotten great reviews but which all three of us thought was terrible, horrendous, atrocious. It was one of the worst movies I've seen in ages. We should have showed him a more traditional Korean movie like Chiburo (The Way Home) or something of that nature. Oh well, we still had a good time.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/21/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Photobucket
For the past few weeks I've been unable to FTP to blogspot to add photos. I e-mailed Blogger Support awhile ago and they said they're working on the problem. In the meantime I started a Photobucket account and have been linking the photos through them. Today I got this e-mail:
Your photobucket account has exceeded 2,000 Megabytes of bandwidth this
month. In order to keep this site free and highly reliable to everyone,
We cannot offer unlimited bandwidth. If you would like to donate or
purchase additional bandwidth, please see http://photobucket.com/donate.php. You can also limit your bandwidth by scaling down your picture size and limiting your direct linking. If your account exceeds 2,500 megs of bandwidth, direct linking will automatically be disabled for the remainder of the month.
Admin
Photobucket.com
—-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
That was quick. I guess more people are viewing than I thought. If I planned to stay with them I would donate and get more bandwidth but once I can FTP back to blogspot I won't need them anymore. So until that time, if some photos don't appear, you know why.
By the way, I've gotten a few e-mails from people in Korea who say they can't comment on my blog or see the comments even. If you're still viewing my site through the proxy link I posted before, just type in the direct address again now that the block has been lifted: http://korealife.blogspot.com.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/20/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Bait and Switch
I got the old bait and switch routine today at the contract negotiation. The salary mysteriously dropped by 200,000 won (about $165) per month from the advertised offering. This is what happens when you deal with an "agency". Apparently I'd be working for them and not the actual school district. Great. They told me, as if this would be of comfort, that everyone will be making the same pay. When I asked who would make the higher end, they pulled out this crap (for the first time)that only "head" teachers will make that much, which is a bunch of BS as I'm the only teacher they've found with a relevant degree and lots of experience.
Now get this: there's a week-long unpaid orientation - which I could deal with if the pay was as advertised for the salary - but there's also a month long probationary period where, if students quit (this being an after-school program) or give me a bad evaluation, I'll make even less money: 200,000 won less! If that were to happen, and who knows, even if you do teach well some students' parents may send their kids back to a hagwon anyway, or if the kids don't rate you well because you teach too much or they don't like your big forehead, then that would make a total of 400,000 less than what they said the pay would be. I understand the incentive-to-do-well concept, but it should be a bonus up and beyond your salary, not a possible large deduction from an already lowered salary. Ridiculous!
The whole thing made me angry, really. I had to travel all the way to the last few stops on the Bundang Line (2 1/2 hours from my apartment) to their makeshift office (in the back of some hagwon) for them to tell me the name of the public school which, by the way, is also over an hour from where I live, and give me a contract that didn't even need to be signed today. The meeting lasted about 15 minutes. As if they couldn't have simply called or sent an e-mail.
Well enough ranting and raving. It's just I've been sitting here with false expectations for well over a month now, wasting savings and turning into a bum while waiting to start this job. I really hoped that working in a public school would be a positive change, a good opportunity, that I'd actually take the work seriously - after all the endless clowning around at dubious hagwon routines - and feel good about being a teacher for once. That was my honest intention. Now I just don't know. I have to give them my answer by Monday. Perhaps I'll just call their bluff and command the original offer and none of the BS. I bet they're just playing a hand to try to make more money from me. They do say they desperately need qualified teachers to make a good impression on the school/parents so that more students will take the classes. If they rebuke my demands, in my opinion it'll be their loss, and for me, it'll be back to the drawing board....yet again. Sigh.
Before I sign off, don't get me wrong. I love Korea and living here has been a wonderful experience overall, but I've just made some mistakes (who hasn't?) wasting my time and have gotten worn out a little after four jobs at the kiddy schools. There are other options out there. It's just taking more time than I thought to find them. When you watch the news every night, though, and have visited several 3rd World countries, you realize how lucky you really are and you don't take things too seriously or get down for long. That's my opinion anyway. Most ills, I have found, that aren't of a physical or deeply mental nature, are mostly illusionary. And with that, I will fix up a nice dinner now, perhaps with a glass of wine, and enjoy the rest of the night.
Update: The contract, it gets worse. I'd have to attend a weekly meeting (can even be on Saturday) at the agency's head office. I'd have to submit to them weekly and monthly plans as well as make placement tests and examinations and grades and monthly reports for the parents...Ok that's not too bad, again if the salary was right, but I'd also be required to report to work 90 minutes before my first class even starts for a meeting with the Korean teachers, whom I might add have turned out to be MY assistant and not the other way around as stated before. And the final clause: two warnings for any reason and they can terminate me. Also, I love the clause they put in about "duty of secrecy" where I'm not allowed to discuss any details of my job with anyone. I guess I've already failed that one. Only one more warning left...
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written by shawn matthews
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8/19/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Sex and the City
When Julie used to come over in Nowhere-dong and watch this show I couldn't stand it. "Huk!" I would say. (Huk! being a manly version of chi!) "Who the hell watches this crap?" Just as I couldn't stand lying on the floor. "Huk! Who the hell lays on the floor!"
Now every Tuesday and Wednesday we lay on the floor and watch Sex and the City back to back. What's come over me? The floor is comfortable and I find myself sad Carry and Aidon didn't get married and that Big has now moved to California, leaving behind a couple of airplane tickets in case Carry gets lonely. And Miranda just had a baby, Samantha caught her lover cheating and that nutcase Charlotte is, well, annoying and plain off her rocker. It's the end of Season 4. Season 5 next week.
A shot of Sex in the City with Korean subtitles. In this scene Carry gets a rash after trying on a wedding dress for fun. I like how they tell you what season a show is in here (see upper right corner of the screen). They do that with most re-runs like ER and Ally McBeal (no, I don't watch those shows...huk!).
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written by shawn matthews
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8/16/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Monday's Dinner
Let's see what Julie is up to in the kitchen. All I know is that it smells pretty damn good and I'm one lucky guy tonight.
Mmm... it's dwen jang chigae traditional style (made from homemade aged dwen jang paste that her mother gave her yesterday). Notice we use a little portable gas range instead of that awful modern electric glass heat stove. We picked it up at Walmart for $9 and it works much better and it's also cheaper.
Here she is hard at work. I feel bad but she knows how to cook much better than I do. I can help out by snapping photographs in the background.
She's also made this nice kam ja bokum (fried potato) side dish. It's also one of my favorites. What a wonderful meal. Too bad she forgot to make the rice until everything else was already done. "Oh shit!" Oh well...can't remember everything.
This is my favorite drink in Korea. Su Jung Gwa. Sometimes they serve it in restaurants after your meal as "service" (free) for "dessert." I don't know how to describe it other than it tastes like cinnamon. I never realized I could just buy it in a can until recently. Tasted good after today's meal.
Now Julie's hard at work designing her secret new blog. She'll kill me if I give out the address just yet. Don't worry, it's not pink anymore.
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written by shawn matthews
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Korea Life Blog - Great Blog List
This guy's got a great list of blog link images set up on the left side of his page.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/14/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Worst Neighbors Ever
Julie and I had a terrible day today. We are truly the worst neighbors ever. The story started when a couple moved in down the hall with their beautiful Cocker Spaniel (named oddly but innocently: Cock, pronounced Coke-uh, in Korean. Rather than call him Cock, I'll just say Coke). A couple of times, our door being open, Coke sprinted in to befriend us. After convincing the owner, a nice young lady, that it was OK, we watched him last night for a few hours to give her a break. Have a look:
Here he is, the friendly little guy. Just look at that happy face and beautiful reddish brown coat.
Julie's a little hungry and tries to steal Coke's bone. Julie loses.
Hey, come on! Smile for the camera and say kimchi!
I took a real liking to the fellow. Very playful and you could basically do whatever to him.
After a lot of playing, we're a little tuckered out. Phew. Time to relax.
Maybe we'll watch a little TV. There's Animal Planet and Canine Boot Camp is on.
Awe, he's more tired than I thought and falls asleep in my lap for awhile.
When his owner came back she brought us a couple of drinks for watching Coke and then asked us if we'd like to own the dog. Her brother gave him to her as a surprise, but it's become too much a responsibility for her day in and day out and she needs to start a job soon. We love the dog but declined as we think these apartments are too small for a dog this size. So the dog went home...
...this is where the story takes a shocking turn: This afternoon Coke came by again and so we asked the woman if we could take him for a walk to in the park nearby and she eagerly agreed. Since the dog seemed pretty well trained to obey commands like come! and sit! (in Korean: iluwa! anja!) Julie got the idea to take off his dog harness for a bit and let him run around the park for a little exercise. And I agreed. This went well for the first half an hour. The dog hung around us and came when called. Then, as if out of nowhere, he simply bolted as if in a marathon and vanished around a bend! In disbelief, we didn't think that much of it at first, calling the dog's name. But after a few minutes the panic set in. We hurried to look but he was simply gone. We spent hours running all around searching high and low. Gone! - as if somebody swiped him up and sped away (which is what I think happened).
All I know for sure is we made a huge, stupid mistake seeing as the dog doesn't even have a collar.
We feel horrible and we truly must be the worst neighbors ever. We told the woman and we all went out again to look for a few more hours. Julie and I became exhausted and have called it quits for now. The owner is still out there looking. She didn't seem to take it very hard though, perhaps thinking it a relief since she did actually want to give him away. She said she hopes somebody did take him and is terrified to think of him hit by a car. Julie's worried that we may have to pay for the dog and is nervous how the woman's husband will react later. Such a dog costs about 350,000 won ($350) in Korea. And we both feel really bad for the whole situation. What an awful day.
EVEN MORE SHOCKING UPDATE! I sat and stared out the window for the past several hours and then all of a sudden I saw a little speck moving about down in the distance. "Julie!" I screamed. There's the dog! I bolted to the elevator and 13 slow floors down and ran out and sure enough! Coke was out there rummaging in the bushes way off. He looked terrified as I approached but when I called his name, he ran up and jumped all over me. I carried him inside, all the while the dog slapping me with wet kisses, and gave him back to the owner. She was elated! What a great day! I must say, while we feel like a dumbass for having lost the dog and assuming it was stolen, we feel pretty damn good that I found him. I don't know how he managed to get across all of the dangerous roads to where he was without getting killed. What a lucky dog and me and Julie are lucky too!
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written by shawn matthews
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8/13/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Korea Life Blog Store
Sorry for the lack of updates...I've been working hard on finishing the Koje-do book - which will be available very soon. I just have a few little bits and pieces to get in order. I have the layout and all that finished and it will be available online through LuLu in the US. Payment will be taken by credit card or Paypal. International shipping will be available as well.
In the meantime, you can pick up some new klb merchandise . There's 6 exciting items to choose from! Click any of the pics to view the store-front and read the seducing descriptions. All items available in the U.S. or by international shipping. Surprise your boyfriend/husband with your new, sexy klb thong and at the same time support Korea Life Blog. It's like Christmas around here today...
Update: Item art has been slightly improved thanks to Julie. Also added the new KLB logo she designed to the mousepad and the lunchbox backside. Have a look by clicking on any of the items.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/12/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Gyopo Life
Introducing a new blog and interesting blog by a Canadian-Korean who comes to "the motherland" to teach English. Follow along as he chronicles bits and pieces of his experience. Click on the photo below.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/11/2004
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Korea Life Blog - African-American with Children
I received this e-mail from a reader last night:
Hi Shawn,
I've been reading your blog for about a month now. You experiences are hilarious and very inspiring. I just graduated with a degree in English and have been contemplating coming to Korea. I'd like some advice about how feasible it would be to teach. My situation is a bit unique. I have two children ages 8 and 4. I know that people are discouraged from coming if they have children, but I think I have a bit of an edge because my fiance is currently in Seoul at Yongsan Garrison. He is the father of my children and when we get married I will likely move to Korea. I want to be able to work part-time at least, but I want a good teaching situation. I have been noting your advice about the kind of jobs to take and what to avoid. I don't want the fact that I have children to be seen as a negative point in applying for jobs. I will be visiting my fiance in October and I hope to see some schools for myself.
What advice can you offer. Is it easy to find a part-time job with full-time pay and benefits. Also, I am african-american; would that be much of an issue? I've read Dave's ESL cafe and have seen the threads on discrimination. I am 33 years old, but look much younger. I have done my research and I feel that I could live in Korea. I love learning about other cultures and am open to new experiences.
I hope that I have provided you with enough background information to be able to give me some helpful advice. Oh I am currently working as a Techical Writer for a NASA contractor so I am also looking into the possiblity of working for the Army.
Thanks in advance for your help. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to read the rest of the Geoje-do story.
Sincerely,
Samantha
I thought about if for ahwile and did my best to offer advice:
Samantha, thanks for your e-mail. I've been working
hard on editing the Geoje-do story and it's driving me
bonkers.
Being African American will have it's disadvantages,
mostly when it comes to getting the job, and then with
the students. Employers almost always want a picture
beforehand, pretty much for that very reason. It's not
so much the school owners are racist, though they may
be, it's the society at large. The boss may fear not
being able to attract new students.
That being said, once you do get a job, you're
unlikely to experience any overt racism from adults.
Koreans would never say anything directly about it, no
matter how they feel. Kids on the other hand, and I've
seen this first hand, may not be so kind. Whenever
they see African Americans in their textbooks, you
hear the snickers and in Korean they usually say
"monkey!". I'm sure it will take some time for them to
overcome that stupidity. I would take an optimistic
approach and treat it as an opportunity to educate
them. But realistically you should be prepared to feel
frustrated and angry. I can't really recommend any job
in particular. Perhaps a public school would be more
likely to hire equally, but even they want photos in
advance...I hate telling you this reality. Have you
considered teaching in Japan? They are much more open
there to different races. As far as the children, that
won't be an issue if you don't mind a small apartment.
Keep posting messages of Dave's ESL for better
insight. I may also do a post with your e-mail in it,
if you don't mind.
She's given me permission to post her concerns here and I thought it'd be helpful if any of my readers could also offer advice. It's a sad shame that people are afraid to teach here or are just unable to because of the color of their skin. In this day and age that seems so backwards.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/9/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Geoje-do Book Cover
Inching closer to the final Geoje-do draft, here's what the cover will look like.
Julie and I designed the cover and then printed it on regular paper and wrapped it around a similarly shaped book to get a general idea. To see it clearly and exactly how it will end up, in PDF form, click on the picture.
I just need to fix the spine color/font and add my name. I also need to write something on the back cover, but I feel peculiar doing that myself. Any volunteers? Your name will be credited. Should be something like "Shawn says goodbye to his beloved cat and heads across the world...blah blah blah"...
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written by shawn matthews
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Korea Life Blog - Photoshop Fun
I've been having a lot of fun with Photoshop. Look at the cool things I can do with just a few clicks.
I can make myself look as if I don't feel very well. What was in those brownies anyway? This abstract look is growing on me — literally.
I can cut off some of my huge forehead and make me look almost normal.
I can make Julie hot and sexy for the cover of some trendy new magazine. I'm sure she'll just love this professional look.
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written by shawn matthews
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Korea Life Blog - Library
It was a pretty uneventful weekend. However we did have a nice trip to the public library - the first time I've ever been to one here. It was very nice, actually, and they have a good selection of English books to read, even Korean historical comic books in English (almost every one features the inevitable them: a vigilante with super-human strength that goes around beating up crooks and thugs and avenging the wronged). It also has high powered air-conditioning and even a cafeteria.
Here's Julie at the bus stop avoiding the camera as usual.
Here she is again avoiding the camera. I love the added bonus of the ajumma there to the left. She's obviously enjoying the merry antics of a foreigner and his girlfriend.
Oh well, at least this nice hanbok (traditional Korean clothes) can't hide. I want that outfit actually. No, not the dress.
Here we are, 4 stops later, at the public library. It was Saturday around 3:00 and was jammed pack. I'm not sure if everyone was there to study or to escape the summer heat. Either way, we had trouble finding a place to sit. I didn't get many pictures of the inside because it was too quiet. Basically it looks like a library, lots of books and lightening fast computers with internet connection.
This surprised me. I have never seen a cafeteria in a library in America and now I wonder why. The prices were cheap and the food was surprisingly delicious.
Julie got U-dong for 2,000 won ($1.60). It tasted great, though admittedly you can't really mess up noodle soup.
Here's what I got for just 3,000 won ($2.40). Dwen jang chigae! I love this and so does Julie. As you can see, it was still boiling as it came out. Utterly fantastic! The side dishes were also good. We ate them and then Julie took them back for a free refill. At these prices, perhaps we should just come here every day for dinner.
We spent about three hours inside relaxing and reading. Unfortunately Julie needs to get some address document from city hall (next to our home at least) and a small photo in order to get a membership. Hopefully she'll do that soon. There were a lot of books I want to borrow.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/7/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Computer Addict
Julie's busy preparing for her private tutoring lesson...hmm, I don't need to use the computer - there are plenty of things I can do.
Looking good. Wait until Julie sees me...what a lucky girl. Are my muscles turning to flab? Nah, couldn't be. No exercise = no problem!
When I wasn't looking, I secretly replaced the premium Walmart brand coffee with Foldgers crystals. Let's listen in: "Mmm, this coffee has a rich, full flavor. It reminds me of a cafe in Paris..."
Ouch! Aisheee! I'll get you mosquitos if it's the last thing I ever do!
Ah, finally back to updating my website, chatting to my friends and family, writing, checking e-mail, surfing the web, illegal downloading...
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written by shawn matthews
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8/4/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Notebook Note
Julie and I went to Rodamco Plaza tonight across the street to eat frozen yogurt at the Red Mango franchise. Inside the plaza we passed a modern little shop selling unique notebooks with pages made from recycled paper. We picked up a couple despite knowing full well that after a week or less of scribbling in them, we'll probably get bored and throw them out the window. Happens every time, at least for mew anyway. I buy a notebook with the intention of keeping a daily journal. This goes well until I actually open it and stare at a blank page, scribble some ridiculous thing or other, throw my hands up in despair, then never use it again.
Here they are together. Mine is on the left, Julie's on the right.
Julie's is really practical, of course. Hers has a calendar and this daily planner where she can write down what we buy at the store and total the cost, a daily memo, and then a brief section for her thoughts (Shawn is wonderful, handsome, romantic, kind..etc.)
Mine is full of blank, recycled pages, environmentally friendly and waiting to be filled with the profound ramblings of a lazy oaf. I actually impressed myself by filling the first four pages with my thoughts about Cass Mania, an absurdly named bar nearby our apartment. Cass being the name of a watery Budweiser-ish beer. The ridiculous part was they served practically ever bottled beer and liquor except Cass, which was only available in a pitcher.
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written by shawn matthews
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Korea Life Blog - Fahrenheit 9/11
Julie and I finally saw Fahrenheit 9/11 on Sunday. I don't know why it took so long to come here. In Korean it's called Hwa-sshi 9/11. I don't want to get political on my website, there are lots of other ones out there specializing in that field, but I've been a Moore fan ever since his ground breaking documentary on GM's pull-out of Flint Michigan, Roger and Me. I will say I agree that Fahrenheit 9/11 reminds us that we need to see and hear more than the government and media allow. The scenes of the war in Iraq and it's horrors and the effect losing a son (to a seemingly unworthy cause) has on a family are among the things we should be seeing, in my opinion.
Koreans seem to love the movie. We couldn't get tickets anywhere either Friday or Saturday. Sunday we went all the way to Seoul Theater in Jongro and got the last two tickets and we were 4 hours early. The theater was jammed packed. I hate to say it, but I was stuck next as an enormously overweight foreigner - eating popcorn and slurping down a huge cola - who flowed over into my chair leaving me squashed against Julie. Still, I'm glad we went and I really enjoyed the film. Julie too. She was dumbfounded as we left the theater, looking at me a bit oddly, and saying, "What is wrong with your country's government?" I take it that's a question most people wondered as they walked into the Korean night. For others, including me, it just confirmed the fact the world in general, not only the US, is run by a bunch of unscrupulous and manipulative assholes.
Here is the promotional movie flyer for the film. I took a couple for memorabilia.
Here's another for the upcoming Tom Hanks movie. He's one of my favorite actors and I'll be sure to see this.
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written by shawn matthews
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Korea Life Blog - Welcome German Readers!
I checked my stats for the first time in a while (I kind of gave up on them when everybody was viewing my site through a proxy)...and I was was surprised to see this:
Page views today: 2075 (and counting)
This hour: 41
This week: 3934
This month: 3934
This week and this month refer to Aug 1-4.
I checked my referrer log and 430 page views came from this site:
Beepworld
I used Babel Fish for a quick translation and here's what it came up with:
A very interesting LifeBlog over the life in Korea in all its facets. Particularly to consider the many leckeren pictures are to the meal. It has an odyssey behind itself, which floated into into rather all corners of the country, even after, as it designates it, "nowhere dong" ... * g * it does not save also at justified criticism at the predatory exploitation in the country.
Thank you Beep World and welcome new readers to my site about living and teaching in Korea.
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written by shawn matthews
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Korea Life Blog - New Job
I received this official e-mail last night from the people in charge of hiring for the public schools:
Dear Mr. Matthews,
We are pleased to inform you that you have been successful in your interview and would like to invite you for our contract negotiations and information day which will be held as a group of successful applicants on either Friday August 20th or Saturday August 21st, which ever is more convenient for you to attend. We will be contacting you by phone to verify the date of your attendance.
On the day of your attendance you will be required to bring all necessary documents with you including, but not limited to, the following:
Passport
University Degrees
University Transcripts
And any other relevant educational certificates
If you have any questions or problems please do not hesitate to contact me via email.
Thank you and we look forward seeing you!
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I think I mentioned before that the job is part of a new after-school, government sponsored program to place native English speakers in public elementary schools throughout Seoul (and later the country). The program, still in its infancy, is meant to help decrease the burden on parents to send their kids to expensive language schools known, of course, as English hagwons.
The schedule is 1-6PM (elementary school students in Korea finish school before 1:00). There will be 4 or 5 classes/day, no more than 20 students/class, and I will be an assistant to a Korean teacher who hopefully knows what she/he is doing. Fortunately I have a degree in English Education and several years experience now which means I'll be getting the top salary on the pay-scale. Also there's a generous housing allowance, which means our apartment will now be free, if not profitable.
I have to wonder what hagwon owners think of all this. The effects might not be immediately noticeable, but if the program is a hit, and who knows really, I bet the burden that lays on the heads of parents will soon be shifted to the heads of the owners of the language schools.
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written by shawn matthews
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8/2/2004
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Korea Life Blog - Geoje-do Memoir
If you've wondered what I've been up to, over the past week I finished the Geoje-do memoir draft! I spent the last couple of days beginning to cut parts and add others, trim the excess, tighten sentences and dialogue and rewrite paragraphs for a smoother read. Actually I feel kind of embarrassed that I published on my site such poor writing in the first place. However, I read something once that really made sense. Many amateur writers never get far because they keep going back and trying to perfect what they wrote instead of moving forward. Rather than obssessing on what I wrote each time, I pushed out new parts now and again, scribbled in a journal, and now I have 200 pages. Also, I should give credit to my readers. If I didn't get so many comments and e-mails urging me on, I may never have come so far. Though the draft as it stands is still pretty bad, it's something to work with and I'm glad I wrote it.
For now you can get an idea of what I'm doing by looking at the these two paragraphs:
Original crappy paragraph
I was already annoyed. Didn't she realize I was exhausted? Patiently I answered each question one by one over the next two hours. Meanwhile she was driving much too fast, weaving in and out of cars, crossing into oncoming traffic and laying heavily on the horn. I have to admit, aside from everything else, the scenery was quite beautiful. I wanted to lay my head against the window and absorb the surroundings. Almost everywhere were the rolling hills covered with thick green foliage and interspersed with rice paddies. There were some small villages of traditional Korean homes with colorful blue and red roofs.
Improved crappy paragraph
In truth she was just curious about me and trying her best to speak English, but she was oblivious to the fact I had come halfway across the world, that I was miserable and exhausted. One banal question after another popped out of her persistent mouth. Meanwhile she jerked in and out of traffic, crossed into the oncoming lane, sped up only to have to brake hard, and continually hammered on the horn. It wasn't only her, though. All around us people drove in similarly reckless fashion. The chaotic flow of vehicles contrasted sharply with the peaceful scenery. Moments, during a rare, steady flow, I desired to lay my head against the window and absorb the surroundings which looked to me like pages from National Geographic. Farmers in bamboo hats speckled rice paddies flowing like wheat in the wind and bordered by great hills smothered in thick green foliage. Short, flat fronted pickup trucks toting metal and glass surged past villages of old wooden homes and structures with bright blue and red roofs. Just then, a zombie jumped onto our car, reached into the window and lopped off Mrs. Kim's head!
Well, back to work. I have nothing better to do while waiting around to hear about the public school position...
Update: As soon as I made this post, the guy called me and said I have the job and details will come tomorrow on e-mail.
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written by shawn matthews
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