SOME people say that skiing is like riding a bike - you just don't forget how to do it. But what they forget to add is that if you've not done it for a while, you have to pay with pain.
It had been five years since I last took to the slopes - with very little exercise in between - and on my first session in the Bulgarian resort of Bansko I soon found my leg muscles screaming at me to end the relentless vibration caused by zooming down a slope (an easy blue run)!
Talk about being unfit!
Luckily, in Bankso, the pain I felt was more than compensated for by the pleasure to be found in this fast-growing winter playground.
Bansko is a delightful working town and not just a ski resort. With cobbled streets and ancient houses jostling with modern hotels and apartments, it is quickly becoming a major holiday destination and the epicentre of property investment in Bulgaria.
Joining me on my Balkan adventure were my partner, Tilly, and her son, Xenon, and while I was resting my aching limbs and enjoying a hot-chocolate, they came back flushed with excitement from beginners' ski school. Xenon wolfed down a lunch of chicken and chips, itching to get back on the slopes for the afternoon lesson. Tilly was happy to have a more relaxed lunch of soup finished off with a courage-inducing brandy for the afternoon ahead.
Sedate
I spent the afternoon fighting with my thighs on the more sedate slopes. Most of the pistes are through the mountain forests and are well maintained.
That evening we set out through the charming streets to look for a mehana restaurant and settled for Chevermeto in Vazzrajdane Square. It is spread over three floors in brick, stone and wood with a large central fire and we found a comfortable spot by the window.
We tried some of the local dishes - my favourite was the soudzhouk (dried sausage). With live folk music and dancers, we happily clapped and hooted along and the bill came to just £30. Amazing.
By the end of the third day, Tilly and Xenon had progressed nicely while my legs had grown steadily stronger and snow road back to the town was opened. This unique ski run is lit through the forest beneath the darkening mountains and is a beautiful and exhilarating way to finish a day's skiing.
With excellent tuition from the English-speaking Stefan, Tilly was skiing with a measured level of confidence, while Xenon joined me for the last day on blues and reds. With little regard for his own safety, he proceeded to show me how far and fast he had come since he first strapped skis on, tackling mogul fields and pistes with all the aplomb only an eight-year-old with no fear can muster. Our hotel, the Pirin, proved to be an excellent choice, with swimming pool and sauna to ease the exertions of the day.
Although evening meals were inclusive, we decided to enjoy the many restaurants of the resort instead. Usually we were in bed by 11pm, but there are a few nightclubs to enjoy.
One of the best was The Happy End by the new state-of-the-art Gondola base station. It's a restaurant by day but a great a disco by night. It was there, on the final day, with wine and much applause, Tilly and Xenon received their certificates from their tutor.
Bansko had proved that it was as good a ski resort as any in the Alps. If value is anything to go by, we will be coming back to this pretty and efficient ski resort.
