There are dinners that you eat to celebrate a special occasion. And then there is dinner at the Tousey House. It simply is a special occasion.

What an impressive evening! The setting is lovely. The house was built in 1822, and the owners have spent three years lovingly restoring and furnishing it. The décor contrasts old and new beautifully, with striking modern paintings offsetting antique furnishings and unique wall treatments. We sat by a window in comfortable upholstered chairs at an intimate table for two, and watched the evening go by in the quiet town outside.

I barely knew where Burlington, Ky., was when I set out for the Tousey House, but it's actually very easy to find. From I-75's Rout. 18 exit that most people use to get to Florence Mall, it's a straight five-mile drive out to Burlington's courthouse, and one right turn to the restaurant.

The hostess greeted us and took us upstairs to our table. We were the first diners of the evening, so we peaked around and explored the three rooms. I loved the details -- a tiny cabinet with seashell knobs, a feathered lampshade, a silver mint julep glass with fresh cut roses. That attention to detail was a harbinger of things to come.

The Tousey House is open only three evenings a week, Thursday through Saturday, and offers a three-course, prix-fixe menu for $48. When I asked our server, she explained that the concept had been well received since it began this summer.

We were pleasantly surprised by tiny cups of roasted tomato and kale soup as an amuse-bouche. Served with silver demitasse spoons, the soup was just enough to tease the appetite. Fresh rosemary bread slices arrived in a silver wire basket, with a plate of butter rosettes. We were admiring the antique willow pattern starter plates as they were whisked away to make room for more, and we chose a French Sancerre from the fine wine list. (Wine is not included in the fixed price.)

My first course, the Herbed Goat Cheese Rustic Tart, was exquisite. The tart crust was handmade and free-form, but it was a perfect pastry -- delicate, but slightly whole-grain to give it body. I loved the herb seasoned goat cheese filling. The red onion marmalade topping made the dish savory, and the sprig of thyme flowers made it beautiful. The tart was served with a salad of fresh field greens with a light balsamic vinaigrette, and a very thin slice of country ham that was cooked crisp for a salty accent. Every element was perfectly composed, like a picture on the plate and on the palate.

Just as beautiful, my companion's Roasted and Grilled Vegetable Salad was arranged artfully with shaved parmesan balanced along grilled asparagus spears that were thinner than a paintbrush. Pine nuts accented the perfectly cooked and seasoned portabella mushrooms that were plentiful among the crisp greens.

My companion is very, very well traveled, and has been wined and dined across literally every continent. When I take him along on these outings, I usually have to humor him a bit -- the man is not easily impressed. But as our evening progressed at Tousey House, he was enchanted.

His main course was one of the chef's signature dishes, Shrimp & Pan Fried Grits. Again, the presentation was faultless, and the flavor was exquisite. The chef and owner, Kristy Schalck, uses local sources for her ingredients, including Kentucky bourbon and stone-ground grits from Weisenberger Mill in the preparation of this dish. A lovely fresh garnish of the thinnest green onion slivers added color and flavor.

My Beef Tenderloin was earthy and honest. It was perfectly tender, cooked to perfection, but more than that -- every bite on the plate seemed to be exactly what I wanted it to be, as if someone had known exactly what my heart desired. From the pearl onions and tiny grape tomato halves caramelized in red Zinfandel, to the timbale of root vegetables flavored with my secret favorite, parsnip; the flavors were bold and daring. Sweet potato chips were the perfect autumn garnish, along with tiny spears of roast asparagus.

We shared a pot of delicious French press coffee with our dessert. The Chocolate Cake was more rich than sweet, topped with slivered almonds and surrounded by raspberries. The Sweet Potato Crème Brulée was heavenly, flavored with a hint of bourbon and brown sugar. I couldn't have been more pleased.

This was more than a meal, it was an experience of art and creativity and careful respect for good food. This is a place you should take your dearest, most intimate friend or the big-city visitor who has never understood your inexplicable love for this part of the country. Flawless yet friendly service, an eclectic but polished setting, and a perfect, memorable meal -- truly, the Tousey House is a treasure. ©

The Tousey House
Go: 5963 North Jefferson St., Burlington, Ky.

Call: 859-689-0200

Hours: Evenings only Thursday-Saturday (Reservations recommended)

Prices: Expensive ($48 fixed price)

Payment: Major credit cards

Red Meat Alternatives: Vegetarian option: Ask ahead.

Grade: A+