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Vol 8, Issue 48 Oct 10-Oct 16, 2002
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Sunny & Cheerful
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A kinder, gentler place for the first meal of the day

BY DONNA COVRETT

Most mornings I'm inhaling a piece of toast and a banana, washed down with a cup of coffee while I peruse my schedule book. I'm hoping there's enough hot water left after my son's 30-minute comatose shower for a five-minute one of my own. I search franticly for clean clothes to wear because I was too tired to do laundry at midnight, then reach for something from the gently-used pile instead. Oh, god, where are my keys? I swear I left them on the mantel. Yikes, they're still in the front lock. OK, out the door, not bad: only 10 minutes behind. Oh, jeez, I forgot to feed the cats ...

Ahhhh, Sundays ... the morning I look forward to. It's not without its own ritual: a kinder, gentler rhythm that always includes brunch -- the weekly social breakfast with friends or family. I have several favorite Sunday brunch spots: Wildflour Bakery, Simone's, Inn the Wood, Sugar 'N Spice, Pacific Moon Cafe (for dim sum) and Daybreak in the Hyde Park Plaza.

Since good breakfast spots are few in Cincinnati, they tend to be always crowded on Sunday morning. That's certainly the case for Daybreak, which generally has a line with a 15-30 minute wait. While some flip through The New York Times and others socialize, a few hug the wall with a too-much-Saturday-night lean.

The roomy interior is a bright-eyed-and-bushy-tailed decor of oranges and yellows with a central impressionistic wall mural. Servers are dressed in the same sunny orange, and everyone, including the owner who greets you at the front is just so good-morning friendly.

The majority of Daybreak's substantial menu is breakfast items -- omelets, egg specialty dishes, pancakes, waffles and French toast, crêpes and a few heart-healthy selections. Six sandwiches and five salads round out the fare. A pitcher of water with floating orange slices -- upholding the theme -- and a pot of coffee (a good thing after salsa dancing until 2 a.m. the night before) are delivered to the table. We're ravenous -- choosing a Spinach Omelet ($6.95), Daybreak Skillet ($5.95) and Blueberry Ricotta French Toast ($3.50 half/$6.25 whole) for the two of us. It takes a while getting to the table: over 30 minutes. (My only complaint about Daybreak is that the service is often slow.) But our server -- naturally with a sunny disposition -- checks in with us often, keeping us in juice and coffee.

Food is hot and delicious: The skillet is a house specialty of potatoes, andouille sausage, onions, eggs sunny-side-up and melted cheddar and jack cheese, while the omelet is bursting with fresh-wilted spinach, mushrooms, onions, black olives, feta and the best part: roasted red pepper coulis. Both are served with potatoes and an English muffin. The French toast consists of "sourdough bread stuffed with lemon ricotta cheese and blueberry filling, dipped in egg batter and cooked till golden brown." ("Cooked" is a weight-conscious, weekday term. It's Sunday: Let's say "fried ... in butter.")

I've just eaten as much breakfast in one sitting as I do all week. But that's the beauty of Sunday. It's my no-rules day: I'll be a pig if I want. ©

Daybreak
Go: 3816 Paxton Road, Hyde Park

Call: 513-871-4400

Hours: Monday-Sunday 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Prices: Inexpensive-Reasonable

Payment: Major credit cards

Red Meat Alternatives: Hey, it's breakfast.

E-mail Donna Covrett

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Previously in Diner

Oceans Away Blake's Seafood Grill catches a mixed bag of underwater favorites Review By Sian Gibby (October 3, 2002)

Be Messy, Be 'Mary' Food is just the beginning at Hamburger Mary's Review By Emily Lieb (September 26, 2002)

Self Service Vinoklet Winery is all about the view Review By Donna Covrett (September 26, 2002)

more...


Other articles by Donna Covrett

Tasty and Plentiful Simone's in Walnut Hills is finding its way (September 12, 2002)

Zen of Bar Food Simple stress reduction and some good eats (August 29, 2002)

Natural Flavors Aralia offers Sri Lankan cuisine with many vegetarian choices (August 22, 2002)

more...

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